I got the kit, the short one, and I must say it is a very well detailed kit. The main frame goes together quite easily. Of course I used a black marker to paint the kit before I started, and I think this will help. The base structure goes together very easily and is clever in design, be careful with the folds. In fact I was moving along pretty well with it, until I got to the signals. In particular the shades. There is a reason why so many extras are provided. It takes a lot of practice even with the bender tool to get these right. Trust me, it took 21 for me to get 6! Long story short, it is a great kit, but the finishing touches require a bit of skill, shades and light jewels. If you have never built a kit this would be a tough one to start with. I would compare it to the cattle pin from MT in terms of delicacy of parts. I recomment blades, tweesers, and tooth picks for light glue application. The material used is rather sturdy and flexible. I'd post a picture, but I am out of space! All in all it took me about 3-4 hours last night from start to finish. If you take your time you will get a finish that rivals brass! Great kit!
Ben: I've put only the short one together. GREAT kit!! Something that would help is to number both sides of the bender 1-2-3 < OR > etch a scribe line along one side of both pieces. It is too easy to get one side flipped and then the finished hood results require another attempt. ...don
Thanks Joe, comments like yours are really appreciated. Don't be affraid to post pictures of your results, because when I design somethings like this, by default I come to know by hearth every little details of each pieces, and when I see photo of builts kits, I can observ minus details or assembly difficulty that no one can see, which give me the ability to fix things later. Rest assure, I will never criticize others assembly work, it is really for myself and to improve quality. Don, since the acrylic was frosted on one side only, I thought it would be obvious to determine the top from the bottom of each parts, I was wrong, so your point is well noted for future designs. thank you. Ben
Well, the age of the acrylic user MIGHT have some bearing as to whether I can see it or not. ...don http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/images/icons/icon7.gif
I am out of picture space for now. I will try and eliminate some of my old ones and maybe make some room.
Sorry Mike, I never saw your post about this question, yes the SP style was in the plan, in fact it was the first thing I've started up with when I started designing the bridges kits. It was and still is the lack of real measures to get me forward in the kit design, I was able to acquire real measure for the cantilever ones, but none for the full bridge, hoppefully when I'm finish with my cureent project, I'll dig for those measures and finish the full signal version, or the SP style if you prefer. Ben
Good to hear Ben I will try and see if I can find anything to help get this project moving :thumbs_up:
Very well done :good:, you are the first one who had shown his constructions, since I introduced those kits. Ben
This is way cool Joe, wish I had a layout to show them off like this, but nooooo! Designing kits takes all my free time, LOL!:bear-laugh: Ben
I am glad you did this one. I really like it. Before I resized the picture you could really make out the shades but now it is tougher to see. Are you gonna make a dioramma or something?
Ben I know I'm a little late to the party but........... can these kits be painted with FLOQUIL RR colors?? This is my first ever Lazerboard kit so any tips would be great!! I have a few ideas I might try to change it up some
Ben, I don't know if you have found a dimensional drawing of an SP signal bridge, yet, but if you are interested, a very similar Pennsy drawing can be found here: http://prr.railfan.net/standards/standards.cgi?plan=61940-A&frame=YES I know it's about 18 months late, but... Dan S.
Hi Mike. I have a section on paint, on my web site, http://animekmodels.com/Tools.html (the link from the little blue welder). Yes solvent paint can securely be used on my kits. Laserboard (Polybak is a resin base material) Ben
Thanks Dan, that's a nice drawing, a full "width" signal bridge is on my "to do" list, it should be around project number 7 or 8 as of now. Ben
