Hi, I am not sure which forum to post this, so I'll try here. If I'm wrong then happy for a moderator to shift it. Now I'm new to model railroads, so perhaps some of my problems are due to not knowing what to do correctly, but I am at my wits end with using Atlas track. I've bought around $450 worth of track to do a layout (details in layout forum) but this Atlas stuff has me ready to attack everything with an axe. I have a group of right hand remote points that a train cannot pass over without derailing, - it looks like the plastic frogs are too high and too narrow for the trains wheels to go through smoothly (though the left had ones seem OK - go figure) some other points that a train stalls on unless I apply finger pressure to the point (loose internal connections?) The track joiners are all so loose that I have to try to squeeze them closed for a firm connection. I have two trains - a Kato and a Bachman, they run perfectly well on a local club layout (all Peco) without derailing, but on my Atlas stuff they run crap. The last straw was today when I tried to lift a point that was not working (train stopped every time it came to it) and I obviously was not gentle enough and it fell apart in my hand...........I'm over it. I think i'll throw the lot out, save up for another 6 months and buy a different brand or take up another hobby.........this was meant to be relaxing..... I know I'm venting, but it's either that or explode!!!!! cheers Gary
i had to clean my atlas tracks every stinkin' 3 days. ebay auctions just ended on those tracks...kato+peco time!
Hang in there! There are plenty of modelers on this board (including myself) that have been using Atlas track for years without problems. A little more info is needed: what code track are you using (55 or 80) and which specific turnouts are you using (#5, #7, #10, etc.)? Atlas had a known problem with their #5 code 55 turnouts a few years ago and also with their current curved turnouts. You may have some of the bad lot and can resolve the issue by having Atlas swap them out for good ones. Jamie
Hi, track is code 80, the turnouts are that are problems are 2701 rh no 4 remotes. I've calmed down a bit now but my problems are these: derailments on rh turnouts (not all, but most), LH turnouts are fine. It appears that on the problem turnouts the plastic frogs are too shallow and too narrow for the wheels of the locos to smoothly pass through. The locos are a Kato f7 and a Bachman ge 44ton switcher. They work perfectly well on Peco track without the jolting and bouncing that seems to happen on the Atlas track. The trains often stall on some of the turnouts - pushing the train off the turnout and applying finger pressure to the turnout fixes that turnout for a while, later the trains stall again - its like the contacts in the points are intermittent and the pressure pushes them together, but after a while they ease apart again and break contact. (this happens on one LH turnout and a couple of the RH ones) The Atlas track joiners are waaaay too loose. I keep trying to make them a better fit but haven't succeeded consistently. Fixing the track has been a nightmare since every time I move a piece of track, several other pieces loosen up. I've had to relay several sections multiple times after noticing that track I'd previously laid had loosened up. Just as well I put it down with only a thin layer of caulking ......easy to cut and lift.... My layout is mostly flat on a foam base, but the atlas track joins seem to be irregular in height - I run my finger along the joins and can feel the height differences between each piece. Trains just do not run smoothly, they "click clack" noisily around. I guess the end for me was having a turnout fall apart when I was picking it off the layout (my fault for not being as gentle as I should have been. I had no conception that the turnouts would fall apart with light pressure) I doubt that I'll get anywhere with atlas, as I am in Australia and returning stuff is just way too hard. At this point I've got two lovely trains, half a dozen carriages, an NCE Powercab all of which work nicely, and about $450 worth of Atlas track that will probably be junked and replaced with Peco or Kato when I can afford it (a while since I am currently job hunting). I guess I've just lost confidence in the brand - I should have learned from my other hobby (Astrophotography and telescope making) that one should buy quality stuff, and buy it once, rather than buy cheap and have to replace it. If there is a way of fixing this stuff I will be very greatful, but I have my doubts it can be done... cheers Gary
I have many Atlas switches on my layout. It's been a while so I don't know what # they are. Both LH and RH. Not supplied with machines and using handthrows. No problems to speak of. More problems with Peco insulfrogs (shorts), that requires nailpolish. Any new switches on my layout will be Peco. Quality control is usually the first to go when you're looking to cut costs.
push an engine thru the switch slowly by hand and see where the problem is....if it binds going thru the frog, wheel guage probably too narrow. i have 18 atlas geeps, almost everyone needed widening for smooth operation.
Yikes...having so much personal experience with Atlas track this is very surprising. It almost sounds like your shipment was damaged somehow. I don't really have any suggestions beyond what others have stated since I have not had any Atlas track problems. In fact, while my big layout uses Atlas code 55 track, I have a smaller door layout with Atlas code 80 track, including four of the same turnouts you are having problems with. This door layout is usually stored standing upright against a wall and I still haven't had any problems when I set it up to run. BTW I have also used Peco code 80 and also have never had problems with that line of track. Hope you get some suggestions or are able to successfully debug the track you have. Jamie
Just did some measurements with a digital caliper. Whilst I was unable to accurately measure the central frogs on the turnouts, I was able to measure the gap in the plastic guides on the outer part of the turnouts: The LH turnouts I am having no trouble with all measure a gap between .78 and .82mm The RH turnouts that I am having problems with all measure between .67 and .71mm in gap. I am unable to measure the depth of the guides or frogs reliably as I can't fit my caliper fully in to them. Perhaps the difference in width is the cause? I'm going to try to widen them with some sandpaper and see if it makes a difference Gary
OK, I've actually managed to get som measurements of the width of the plastic frogs. The rh turnout frogs are definitely smaller that the lH ones. Appears to be about the same as in the earlier measurements above. The loco wheels are getting pinched in the plastic and this is causing derailments. Looks like I will have to find a way of gently widening the gaps (dremel?) any ideas? Gary
I have had some problems with a few RH C80 switches from Atlas in the past. I ran an ignition points file thru the frog...widening it just a bit....along with a little more depth...as i run lots of pizza cutter wheels. .
Instead of sandpaper or file which might be difficult to control or access, you might use something like a dental tool with a chisel shaped end. I've used this to carefully scrape away material about 0.001" at a time. (I was fortunate to have a sympathetic dentist who gave me some old tools years ago.) Perhaps you could make a tool from a piece of steel wire that can be ground to a chisel tip with a file or grinding wheel.
Here is your issue. If you are using manual Atlas Code 80 turnouts they need a little work cause they tend to have just enough gap for the wheels to derail. I also learned this the hard way. Now all I use is the remote turnouts cause they seem to be made better. The manual turnouts for some reason the points don't lay flush with the track so since the loco is heavier the wheels tend to dig at the small gap and derail. What I did was I used a pair or needle nose pliers and gently bent the points to be flush with the track just a bit so they don't leave any gap whatsoever. This will solve your derailing issues as it did for me. I also used cheap nail files you find at any drug store the thinner ones and you can file down the plastic points more. So the wheels don't pinch.
I'm a newbie, but over the last 17 months I have used a lot of Atlas80 flex track, Atlas snap track, and an assortment of various switches from different companies. The Life Like switches were troublesome. The used and older Atlas switches all work well. The Atlas switches I collected last year at different stores were hit and miss. Some worked well, some gave me trouble. The Peco Double Crossovers (have 2) and switches (both curved and straight) have all been reliable, especially the electrofrogs. On both Atlas and Peco, I have had some issues with the insulfrogs stalling certain locomotives or shorting the system.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I will attempt to file the plastic frogs/guides to improve their performance and keep my locos on the rails....Next layout will be all Kato I think, or Peco. Definitely not Atlas - I only give someone one shot at my hard earned money!!!!!! You shouldn't have to file something new to get it to work properly.... cheers Gary
You are making progress. You have found a difference between the RH and LH. I understand your frustration and a just a word or two--- don't give up. Atlas Code 80 has been around since the late 1960's or early 1970's. I was using it almost 40 years ago and still have it on my most recent layout. I cannot comment on the F7, but will say that the 44 ton switcher is going to get hung up since it is so light. I have one and it does the same thing. I strongly urge you to write directly to Atlas by e-mail and report exactly what you have discovered. They are certainly customer sensitive and will do the right thing by you. They may ask you to send the bad pieces to them since it is a quality control matter. You should have no lag and no BS from them.
I helped built a layout with my Dad about a year ago. All was Atlas code 80. We used the Atlas #4 Custom line turnouts and Caboose Industries thows for everything reachable. Everything out of reach we used the #4 and #6 powered switches. Out of the 6 switches 4 are #4 RH and all of them have a very similar problem to what you have described. I checked all the locos with a NMRA gauge and found that all were in gauge. I checked the problem switches and found that the guard rails were too close to the stock rail and the wing rails were too close to the frog point. Also the gauge between the wing rail and the guard rail was too wide. This is what you found too. I think this was a bad batch of switches from the Factory. I filed out the flange ways like you are going to do and it fixed that problem. As far as the electrical problem, Atlas switches along with most, if not all other manufacturers rely on the point rail touching the stock rail to power the point rails. This is problematic as it take only a small amount of dirt to foul this connection. I soldered a small wire between the stock rail and the point rail on the frog side of the hinge and also a wire across the hinge and that fixed the electrical problems on the atlas switches. I will post some pics as soon as i can to better explain this.
Dont bet that hard earned $$$ that you WONT have problems with either Unitrack or Peco. NOTHING IS BULLETPROOF ! :tb-mad: Although Unitrack would probably give you the least operational problems. I've been using C80 from the get go and havent had much in the way of problems. Its MODEL Railroading so one must expect some modeling ( work ) to get things fine tuned. This includes track...locomotives...buildings...even benchwork. In the end...you WILL feel good about it all...knowing YOU had a hand in its creation...JMO of course. .
