Yes you can use the pastel. I scrape the sticks with a sharp blade, and, in my experience, you get a better result if you apply it with your fingertips rather than with a brush. The pastel won't adhere as well as actual weathering powders, but it does a decent enough job - best over acrylic paint rather than shiny plastic or metal. Mike
The weathering system from Bragdon Enterprises also works well. Washes off with water, in case of a mistake etc... I've used it on several coal hoppers, as well as several different boxcars with decent results. Could be enhanced with other chalks, paints and/or airbrush. Also works well for scenery coloring, buildings, vehicles, track etc...... Quite messy though! Based on personal experiences. Mileage/results may vary.
The Bragdon do work well and are subtle. It usually takes a bit of layering for heavy effects. I like the AIM powders, but they are exactly the opposite. I like to add the AIM to wet paint for textures and is especially effective on trucks, couplers, and wheels. I never thought of using them on the scenery itself until recently. By the way I model N scale.
I use the AIM powders, too. This is a P2K GP9 in Milwaukee colors, before weathering: I removed the shell and truck sideframes to protect the moving parts, and sprayed them first with Dul-Coat. This gives a better surface, or "tooth," for the powders. Then I used a bit of black on the engine body, and rust on the trucks. I gave it another spray of Dul-Coat to seal the powder.
Noch also makes weathering powders. I got a set of 8 colors, and I really like it. It adheres well, and a little goes a long way. - Jeff
I use AIM powders also. I like the texture that they add verses airbrushing where you get no dimension.
I use a product I discovered in poking around, and it's called "Doc Ben's Weathering Powders". I am VERY HAPPY with the results I get from using it. Works like, and is very similar to chalk, but adheres much better & goes a lot further. You'll have to "Google" it, as I learned my lesson..........:tb-cool:
Looks great! I just ordered a set of weathering pigments from "Doc Ben". Expensive but from what I have read they sound good. Bragdon's sounded good too...and it looks like you've had good results. On a slightly different subject - I was sitting around staring at my rolling stock the other day when the obvious slapped me in the face (like it usually does - eventually). It dawned on me that all my freight car trucks were black. Ever notice that real freight car trucks are never black? It's amazing what an improvement painting the trucks a realistic red-brown/rust/grime/etc. will do even on an otherwise unweathered car.
A couple shots of my Overland Models GP60's, weathered with the Bragdon system. Unit 3154 in front, the renumbered 3155 behind it. Another view, of the weathered GP60 #3156 I could still use to do some additional weathering details on all 3 units at some point. Started out as factory painted brass, from Overland Models. Dullcoted, weathered, and yes, RUN!! Even worse, the middle unit was renumbered from 3154 to 3155. Since OMI apparently didn't know the Rio Grande had 3 units, the 3154, 3155 and 3156.
I also use various color chalks. I use an emery board to sand off a little pile and then apply the powder with a soft brush. All my weathering with chalk is done in a shallow cardboard box so I don't get the residue all over (pain in the neck to clean up...). I found a great way to get rid of the excess is to use the canned air sold in the electronics stores. The air is dry so it won't damage the model...