I know it sounds like the same old question of what glue to use, but I’m using Liquid Nail. I used a number of glues in the past and I like this stuff the best. Oh and before someone asks, I am splitting the roadbed into two pieces. Anyway I’ve been working on my roadbed for a while now and I still have a lot to do. I have 5 parallel tracks that need to be accurately placed so that they are evenly spaced at 1-3/8” OC. My biggest problem is gluing the roadbed on the curves. The straight runs are a piece of cake and no problem there. I drew my center lines and all evenly spaced, but when I put down the glue on one side, the glue squeezes out and I can’t see the lines. I have had to pull some roadbed up when I discovered they weren’t even. I tried spreading the glue onto the roadbed itself and then laying it down. It works well, but it’s too messy with glue all over the place top and bottom. The wife suggested putting pins in around the circle and then lay down the roadbed, which works but leaves it a little crooked unless I use a LOT of pins. I think for accuracy I like putting the glue on the roadbed before hand if I could just figure out how to apply the glue without getting it all over the place. I saw a roller once at Michaels that might work. I don’t know if that’s what it’s used for and then I wonder if I’ll be able to get on enough glue using that method. The next step is cutting a half circle out of plywood for the outside half to butt up against and then remove the plywood for the inside half. That means cutting 5 sizes of circles and I’m not ready for that YET. Plus I have a lot more curves to do latter that have different radiuses. So how does everybody else do this? I never had so much trouble on my 1st layout. It just went down where it laid, a little crooked, but it worked.
I use cheap latex caulk to glue the roadbed down and then the same for the track. I draw my centerlines then go over them with a Sharpie marker. I then will take a scrap piece of cork roadbed and then while following the centerline, I mark the outer edge every couple of inches. If you put the caulk down thick it will be real hard to see the lines. That is why I use a thin bead of caulk and a putty knife. Craig
Thanks, I kind of suspected that I might be using too much glue. So what your saying is use the knife too spread it along the line and then lay down the roadbed, that sounds like a winner. I’ll give that a try.
I can only address some of the questions. 1. Pins, a lot pins, work well. 2. I use Elmer's Glue All or Aline's Tacky Glue, straight. I apply a thin bead to the underside of the cork. I then use a small piece of cork roadbed to spread it out. I then flip it and line it up and affix with pins. I let it dry thoroughly. If there was an ooops, wet it thoroughly and it will lift right up a few hours later. Repeat as often as necessary.
You're not kiding about the the pins.:tb-biggrin: Well except for the pins, this is what I was doing, but I was having trouble getting on the right amount of glue and it would end up on top. I don’t know if the glue on top is going to be a problem or not because I’m going to spray paint the road bed the same color as the ballast anyway.
You know it’s been a while since I did this, but the photo of all the pins brought back some memories. I now remember using pins on my 1st layout and had forgotten. I haven’t used any pins on this layout except for the start and end, the rest just sort of stayed in place. That may change as I get further in to the smaller radius.
Something like this, JohnnyB? I also use caulk, but I just smooshed it to a consistant, thin layer with my fingers, planty of open time to make adjustment, lightly weighted it down, and in a half hour or so, all ready for track (after a quick sanding pass...) And no problems seeing a line. This area's been in service two years now with absolutely no problems.
Whoa! It sure looks nice but I think I’d be covered in glue if I tried that one. Well now I’m kind of embarrassed to be having troubles with my little layout. That’s just beautiful all by itself. :thumbs_up:
I too use Liquid Nails (for projects) as I am putting cork on ply, but have no problem matching my center lines. I first draw the lines and then put a bead of LN right on the line... then I use piece of plastic about the size of a credit card on edge and squeege the glue out along the line further then I layed out the bead. I leave the thinnest of layers of glue. If it is thin enough to see my center line it is just right. No problem at all with it holding and I don;t need any pins at all.
I just tried spreading the glue on one side of the line only, but ended going back to spreading it on to roadbed itself. I ran in to problems when I got to my ladder of #7 turnouts. At first I planned on running the 1-1/4 roadbed straight threw and then coming back and cutting in a piece of 3-1/4 at an angle, but angle is too sharp and pieces broke out. I think I got to stop and rethink this, because it’s looking real bad.:tb-mad:
JohnnyB, you can try latex caulk that goes on white but dries clear. So if you have a little that oozes out, it would be nearly invisible when dried. And even if you plan on ballasting, you don't even need to worry about this. I find that latex caulk can be easily spread thin with just your finger and like what a previous poster said, you have plenty of work time if you limit in 3' sections. I find Liquid Nails to be a bit too viscous.
Cheap "Duro" spray adhesive from K-Mart. About 2.00 for a rattle can. I did my whole Train Trailer layout...dual mains...and still have half a can left !! JMO .
When using the liquid nails or latex caulk, do you still soak the cork in water? When I laid the cork with nails, I always soaked it, but wouldn't the water interfere with either of the adhesives?
I use a plywood subroadbed and Titebond III wood glue to stick the cord roadbed to it, which I find works perfectly and quickly with no mess at all and no lumps or bumps. You are probably, like most people, using foam. I'll tell you my method anyway, because I don't see why it wouldn't work with foam and that project glue you're using. First, I have available a small piece of wood, about 2" wide, one edge of which has been cut to a 45 degree angle on a table saw. I don't even remember why I have such pieces of wood cut at that angle, but I do and they're coming in very handy. I also have available a large quantity of canned goods. I draw in my track centerline with pencil. Of course one can use a sharpie instead. I generously squeeze out the glue directly over that centerline, and then I use the piece of angled wood to squeegee the glue out into a nice, thin layer. It doesn't matter if it gets wide in places because I'm going to scenick anyway, right? I put down the outer piece of cork with the inner edge against the centerline (which is visible because the glue is in a thin layer, now). Then I immediately abut the inner piece of cork against it. I then line up a bunch of canned goods on top of the cork and go away until it dries.
I have used a low temp glue gun to afix cork to the foam board. You have to work quick and press the cork down real good so there aren't any bumps or anything... Works with a two person team best. Might try the liquid nails though...
Thanks guys, I’ve been busy trying different methods and I think I finally figured out what works for me. I made a lot of progress. I decided to use a lot less glue thanks to the replies hereon TB. I also decide to slow down and not to try and do it in one day. Originally I was a little worried about getting on a good coat, so this time I tried putting only a small bead away from the line and laying the roadbed in the middle of the bead without applying any pressure. Then I gently slid it over to the line and placed a pin to hold it while working the roadbed around the line. Once it was in place I pressed down on the roadbed squeezing out the excess glue and removing it by scraping it out. The other problem was when I was putting down the other half, I would inadvertently move the first half out of alignment. So I’m doing only one half of the roadbed at a time and I’ll install the other half when that dries. And then there was the problem of tieing in to the 3-1/4” piece for all the turnouts in my parallel ladder. I decide to notice them in instead of trying to cut angles. I'm going to replace the stuff on the bottom because I don't like it.
Actually you’re not going to believe this, but that’s exactly what I ended up using because my putty knife was too big and I just happened to have a piece of wood like that.
Wow George, that’s amazing. I tried using that stuff for my back drop on my 1st layout and I had to work fast. I don’t know that I can move that fast anymore. wink:
