Im taking apart a new Kato Daylight engine and I cant get the outer shroud with the walkways off. Any help would be appreciated.
The shroud is a single casting that extends the width of the loco between the cast metal boiler halves (pieces). The boiler halves have to be disassembled to get the casting out. Have fun! As an afterthought, are you intending to remove the shrouding to make an unshrouded loco? There is something else you need to know if so. Ben
Okay, a portion of one of the two cast metal boiler halves extends the width of the inside of the shrouding. See the extension in the photo below (above the valve gear hanger). This is as far as I got with a kitbash after discovering this. In my case I have a wired decoder that will be disturbed by a complete disassembly. And a complete disassembly will be necessary in order to saw off those frame "wings." In addition losing that much weight from the loco may be unwise. If you go ahead with the disassembly and the removal of the frame extension, be sure to cut the shrouding off and save the part that fits between the boiler frame halves. It possibly insulates the frame halves as well as being required for spacing. I don't know what I'm going to do about mine. :tb-err: Ben
That may be the best solution. What color are Stealth aircraft? Edit: Google images show stealth aircraft in a variety of colors, flat black being one of them. And all can be seen obviously. Their stealth must come from something other than just color. Ben
Yeah, they don't reflect radar much at all. They paint them dark to visually hide in the dark. It all depends on where you are trying to hide. A rabbit in the Arctic has to change color depending on the season . Now back to the Greenbriar kit bash. At this point it may be easier to cut them off. I don't think that much weight would be lost. Unless a train the size of the Daylight is going to be pulled up a steep grade like the video that Kato did, it should do just fine.
If you are talking about the plastic shrouding I cut mine off using rail nippers or a sprue cutter. Ben
I cut the shroud off. Will end up cutting those goofing things sticking out the side off also. And probably some off the front at the very top. Will have to built up the cylinders also.
Rob, You are going to have to do a lot of work to replace the details that Kato eliminated by placing the skirting on. It's probably too late now but the Con-cor GS2 is probably an easier starting point. I have wanted to make the 614 also, even thought of using the Bachmann Northern, never got past the planning stages. Tony
Responded tonight. I need more / better pictures so that I can scale the logo's. I joined the C&O yahoo group tonight in hopes that they can help.
Greenbriar progress Got the shroud off and will turn a motor tool loose on those goofy wings pretty soon. I pulled the tender shell off the Daylight and put an MRC tender shell on it and it doesnt look too bad. Electrical problem will have to be dealt with. But you would think a guy who is and AT&T technician and was a railroad signal maintainer for twelve years would have at least a chance at getting that solved! :mooh::tb-wacky::tb-biggrin:
I'm interested in knowing how you fare with this, specifically the hardness of the metal and if losing this weight results in derailments though switches. Ben
I would think the only difference a little loss of weight would make would be a little less traction. An indispensable tool that I have for my motor tool for such jobs is a diamond coated stainless steel cutoff disk. It is razor thin and cuts through about anything. My neighbor, who is a dentist, keeps me supplied. They ain't cheep but last a long time.
I may just paint the wings as you suggested earlier. Although painting something to try to hide it usually results in making it more obvious. I did finish painting and decalling the tender. The dullcoat I used to reduce reflections on the tender top clotted somewhat. But at road speeds I don't see that or the wings. I'll just keep it running like a Deere,..uh, Kato. :ru-wink: Ben
