What do you N-Scalers use for clearcoat??

What kind of clearcoat do you like to use on your models?? I think I about used them all but still don't know which one to stick with.

Scott

 

Partial to Floquil paints for nearly 40 years, I've always sealed with Crystal-Cote, then dulled with Flat Finish. I've never been unhappy with results.

Scott

 

I use Model Master or Polly Scale acrylics. Gloss for decals and flat to finish. I have been much more satisfied with the air brush application method rather than using a rattle can because with the air brush I apply less paint and it is more controlled.

 

Primarily, I use Testors Dullcote. I use it to seal decals/paint before weathering and to give the weathering something to stick to. After I'm satisfied with my weathering I will seal it off again to make it stay put.
If I'm not weathering.... A 50/50 mix of Dullcote and Glosscote gives a nice Semi-gloss sheen that looks more like a Kato or Atlas factory paint job.:tb-smile:

 

I haven't noticed any yellowing on my 10+ year old stuff, But I have heard of that.

 

Been using Badger with good results,gloss where decal go on,then when done,weathering etc, seal it off with satin finish.
I must push the Tamiya brand again, for masking tape there is none better imo.Also,I have F1 cars I painted when 10 & 12yro,I'm now 40 & the paint + clear finish has not faded at all!
Just wish Tamiya would do a "weathering" line of paints then I'd be in heaven

I have found using poly carbonate paints (for RC car bodies) handy for Kato/Atlas hand rails,no more paint flaking off after couple years....

 

I use Future floor polish for the gloss and testors for the dulls. The gloss future gives is 2nd to none and can be sprayed on in very thin coats. Works real well for decal application as well. A secret I learned from Fine Scale Modeler

 

I have been using Model Flex dull. Im not real crazy about it, especially airbrushing it. But, I just lightly brushed a thin coat over the decals after they are completely dry of flowquil decal set, to help seal them. So far, they are looking great, with no evidence of them being decals.

 

I've been using ModelFlex Satin Finish for the last three years because I can't get the Testors Dullcote over here. No issues shooting it with an airbrush.

If I'm sealing new road numbers, I brush on Polyscale Clear Flat. Works like a charm.

Brian

 

Badger and Pollyscale for base. Never use glosscoat, liberal amounts of Micro-Set/Sol always do the trick. Then finish with either Pollyscale Satin (straight no dilution) or Testors Dull-Cote.

Pollyscale Satin is the best for matching a factory finish and doesnt lighten the color of the paint unlike Dull-Cote that puts an opaque clear layer.

For passenger units I will hit (airbrush) the upper 1/2 of the sides with Pollyscale Gloss (stright, post decals), then weather the top and the sides, sealing the lower half and top with flat and satin via airbrush as needed. Give's lokies a nice "I was clean once" appearance.

T

 

Do you spray it on full strength or do you thin it with something?

 

I haven't tried future on N scale stuff yet but on O scale I use it straight from the bottle(actually jug as it's quite cheap) Future is already thin as it comes. For larger models it's a cost saver but for N scale I'm thinking better products could be found in the small jars at a hobby shop. I do plan to try setting some N scale graffiti decals in future to see how it looks on the small stuff....dave

 

I've used Testors dullcoat w/ good results.

I struggled w/ what to use as a gloss coat when I painted up a 'brand new' Santa Fe SD75M. After some experimenting I settled w/ Polly Scale semi-gloss (airbrushed) and am very happy with the results - not too shiny, not too thick.

I tried testor's glosscoat as a test before painting the real thing and wasn't happy with the 'splotchy' appearance i got out of the can.

I've used Future brushed on to Alan Curtis kits as a decal base, and it works well (then sealed w/ a dullcoat spray), but haven't tried airbrushing it yet. I didn't want to experiment w/ it on my Kato custom paint SD75M as my first try w/ Future .

 

I usually airbrush it on full strength in thin coats. Clean-up is easy, I usually use windex to clean my airbrush afterward, anything with a bit of ammonia will clean it up. I've used it on plastic and brass with great results.

 

Can you apply decals over future If sodoyou have to then seal with more future then Dulcote? Also, is Floquil Crystal Coat used alone or can it be mixed with the paint to obtain a gloss finish?

 

I use Future as my base coat for decals. I usually wait 24 hours and then overcoat the decals with another coat of future. Once I've finished weathering the engine, I give it one last coat of dullcoat and call it good. The future does a great job of hiding the decal boundaries.

 

I've used dullcote for years and really like it. I even take new freight cars and locos (pull out windows,etc. ) then protect the model with a coat of dullcoat.

 

Oh yea, thanks for reminding me about the splotchiness Dave . I don't like this either. My last few cans have done this. Is it a new formula or propellant?

 

Is there a reason that any of these methods stated here would not work in H0 scale? Seems to me that the scale would not make a difference.