Hutch, Welcome back i enjoyed watching your progress of your first layout and this one looks even better
It has been a long few days on the layout. After getting all of the masonite back drop installed on the whole layout, I realized that I made things much harder than they had to be. So to back track a little, it all had to come down... The screw holes and joints had already been taped and prepped with joint compound. Oh my... The backdrop came down pretty quick and I was back to square one. Now to do things the right way, plywood and foam first, then the back drop. So, you see my progress so far... back drop removed, plywood down. Getting ready to start cutting foam. It should be a busy day. If I really get lucking, I might be able to get some of the back drop reinstalled today. I also installed two new fluorescent light fixtures and a new triple switch box and cover plate. Got the new wired pulled, wired up and everything is wonderful now...What is it about cutting a blind hole for a switch box in the wall...There will always be something in the way when you cut the hole and you will have to cut a second one Needless to say the first hole has been patch, prepped and painted.
IF .... I may play the devil's advocate here, with the name " Appalachian Southern ", I had envisioned a somewhat mountainous region you'd be wanting to achieve. With all that flat surface you recently installed, I'm befuddled.
I think the plywood is probably just a sturdy base for everything going up above. From the track plan, looks to be mountainous terrain. But I could be wrong (and usually am ) Hutch, Hate it that you'll have to redo the backdrops--just treat the previous version as a successful practice run! Lookin' good. Jamie
Yes, I see your point. I am trying a 'new to me' method here. I have 3" of foam that will go on top of this plywood base. This will give me leverage to carve below track level and of course build up as far a needed to accomplish the scene. Does that make this a little easier to understand?
Chris: What is the diameter of the end of the bench work in the second photo. It looks like 48" in diameter.
Thanks Chris. On the "new" JJJ&E the two turnaround areas will be 48" in diameter using the wheel shape. I'll be building the bench work on February 28th.
Well, whatever method you choose, I applaud your efforts AND vision. I look forward to reading your construction updates !
Hello Hutch, that looks like a SUBSTANTIAL foundation for a layout! Just a quick question: I understood that one benefit of L-girder benchwork with risers is to have the opportunity to build below-track-level scenery. Another way to add that feature would be a thick foam layer so you can carve down. Now, it appears that you have both: L-girders and risers (beneath the plywood) and a thick foam layer (above the plywood): Is that not overkill? ) Cheers Dirk
This approach ended up being wasteful, but when I started I had not planned on using the foam on top like you see. If I had to do it again, I am not sure what I would do differently. I like the strength of the l girder bench work , but I also like the flat working surface of the foam with the flexibility to carve downwards into it.
Yes Bob, I laminated three 3 sheets of 1" foam to get to three inches. I decided not to go with 4 inches hoping to get a tortoise to actually work. Also, I don't have a 4 inch long jigsaw blade.
I am starting to work on track and switch layouts in the first yard. This will be a nice place to start. These are #7 switches.
Chris: That's the same ladder yard I used on the track plan for the "new" JJJ&E which is still in my rail images account.
Just curious- Are you planning additional lighting for the various alcoves? They look somewhat shadowy at present. Boxcab E50
Yes, some directional lighting of some sort is planned, but I am not sure exactly what. Would be nice if don't have to use any halogens. A halogen type directional strip fixture with a 6500K CFLs would be nice.
