The panel graphic was drawn using Microsoft Visio and printed on regular paper with an inkjet printer. The surface of the panel is made from 1/8" thick clear acrylic. The paper is in between the acrylic and a sheet of .030 polystyrene on the back. The link below shows and explains the process. https://palisadecanyonrr.blogspot.com/2020/09/updated-control-panel.html
Great posting. Also reminded me why I had bought a piece of clear acrylic I saw in the shop yesterday . When I get ready to use it I'll go back to your procedure and review it again. Close to what I had in mind but probably better in some aspects . Sumner
Tonight my rescue layout got some love. I rebuilt the frame so the layout now sits on top and not inside, then I got some mahogany ply and made some facia. I still need to get another piece to make the front but that will have to come tomorrow. I cut out little doors so you can still access inside the mountain just like Woodland Scenics wanted. I need to get some hinges and a clasp for the doors. But it’s a start and a huge improvement.
Thank you, but I can’t take full credit quite yet. The layout and current scenery wasn’t built by me, I bought it to save it from going into a dumpster. I’m planning on redoing the scenery and ballast getting the wiring fixed and all trackwork up to modern standards. Improving the looks of the benchwork and fascia then putting it up for sale. I figure that since I have the skills to make it look like it belongs in your living room that I would make it look like that and try to make it more appealing to it's future new owner.
Well an Aurora Postage Stamp 0-6-0T was on my workbench and now in the trash. Went to run it a week ago and real smoke and a blue ball of flame issued from the vertical can motor. I removed the motor from it and was surprised how it free wheeled. And that is where I should have stopped. Thoughts were of a Kato pocket line chassis under a Japanese style brake van. Instead I tried to use a small can motor from my parts box and things went South from there. In order to drill out for the motor leads in an all metal frame I had to remove the drivers which were very simple to do, Needless to say that was wasted time as it did not adapt well. So going back to the unpowered with cheater car I reinstalled the drive wheels but it would not longer free wheel. Decided to remove the idler gears between the geared driver and it got worse. After 3.5 hours I gave up and deep sixed it in circular file 13. To danged old to mess with finicky steam anymore. I have another version of this antique but this one has a different motor arrangement so when the motor decides to fry itself in this one I will just remove the motor and leave well enough alone in the hopes this one free wheels. If not circular file 13 for this one too.
My wife thinks I’m going to keep it as well, but with the plans I have for my new layout this one doesn’t fit and must go. Plus this layout doesn’t work well with passenger trains, and that’s mainly what I own. So yea, I’m selling.
Im not exactly sure, it’s all the Atlas track that comes with the Woodland Scenics Track Pack for this layout. The whole thing is made out of sectional track and has a width of about 36”.
Decaling some shorty tank cars. I think I put the big logo up too high. Will probably center it in the next batch
Appears to be 9 3/4" My bad there is some 11" radius also. Like I said, I have always liked this kit. Never had one though! Think cause it comes with everything pretty much, except track, DCC or DC power pack, etc... But learning scenery from this kit seems like fun? You could attempt to replicate it, but I think it would cost more? Or some version of it! Track Plan Atlas Track Pack
Putting Micro-Trains 1017’s into Con-Cor cars. Anybody tried this fasten your coupler bosses into your cars? I don’t want them to ever come loose. Left the centers open so that truck pin will fit into boss. I have a whole bunch of ideas for this stuff. #jbweld EveryWhereWest Model Painting
HUMMMMMM never tried that plastic jb weld. might have to go get some to try out on a few things..........let us know how this worked out.......and thank you
It worked AMAZING. That stuff dries hard as concrete. I pushed the truck pins in and it never even hinted at coming out/apart. It will not stick to delron plastic, but that is why I slopped over the top boss to hold it in place. I have a whole bunch of new ideas for this stuff. They make it in a Tan and Black not sure what other colors may be available. Drying time is 15 minutes, fully cured is 24 hours. It is fairly hard when it fully cures out. So not sure if it is very sandable/modelable, but it will stick things together like non-other...
Well my new Kato Pocket Line steeple cab set arrived after being delayed by the great blizzard for almost a week. 100_0011-1 by John Moore posted Dec 30, 2022 at 5:20 PM 100_0001-2 by John Moore posted Dec 30, 2022 at 5:54 PM Shown here with one of my Bandai steeple cabs for a size comparison. I have had it already on the track for a break in run and at less than 2 volts it creeps down the track while at full throttle not a speed demon but a respectable 40-50 NSMPH top speed. This uses Kato's 11-109 small power chassis one of which is shown in the photo. I also ordered and received a 11-109 power chassis for a future project, 100_0002-3 by John Moore posted Dec 30, 2022 at 5:54 PM Destined to become the port switcher I am getting ready to dieselize this loco so here it is apart. Getting ready to add twin exhaust stacks, relocate the headlights and add Kato 11-102 or 11-107 T shank couplers to it to replace the Rapidos. Basically the same treatment that the Bandai steeple cab shown above received. 100_0003-4 by John Moore posted Dec 30, 2022 at 7:08 PM
Been messing around lately with Azatrax IR train detection and control circuits. Got a couple of projects going, one is a point to point setup that we can use on the branch lines of our AsiaNrail layout. On my module the IR sensors will be installed between the tires but at the other end the sensors need to be portable so they can be placed on different modules. This is something I made from scraps of brass that won't be too obtrusive after it's painted black.
The other part of my experiments with Azatrax IR sensors is to create an automatic staging for two trains on the big loop on the east end of the layout. To start I am installing sensor pairs in two location to indicate occupancy. Been making a couple of stands for the sensors based on some I have inside the helix that control the wye turnouts for the west end staging yards and work so well. They are just U shapes made from 3/4 inch pine stock for the uprights connected across the top with 1/4 inch plywood strip. The holes on both uprights are at a level that the train will block the IR beam. Groves are cut down the outside of each upright and after the sensors are installed, covered with .030 styrene. Here is one installed after being painted. They are held in place with a single L bracket.
Well some engineering work is being done on the new steeple cab for the port facility. Satisfied with the running quality I had to work on increasing the tractive effort. Since it is only two axle Bullfrog Snot was out of the question so I went with adding weight. On top of the shell went some thin lead cut to allow the cab to fit over it. I found there was room at either end of the shell to install Tungsten putty. The track leading to the port from the mainline has a 2% curved short section when departing the port. The curved part saps some of the tractive effort. Ideal was to get the loco to pull 5-6 cars up this grade. Without weight it would only get 3 cars upgrade and after adding weight I got it up to 4-5 cars depending on car type. Anymore cars will require double heading. I did not like the way that the Kato T shank couplers that replaced the Rapidos were working so I added 1 N Scale foot to each frame end and made a pad to install MT 1015s. The cast on cab lights were removed from the cab at their location between the front window to make room for exhaust stacks running to the roof. Exhaust stacks that were laser printed were attached to those stacks which were made of .060 by .060 styrene. 100_0004-1 by John Moore posted Dec 31, 2022 at 6:05 PM 100_0005-2 by John Moore posted Dec 31, 2022 at 6:05 PM I have had issues with Tungsten putty wanting to soften and run no matter what brand I have used lately so I used an old trick of coating the in place putty with ACC which stops that problem by creating a hard shell over the putty. I am most likely going to order a 2nd one to run the two as an MU'd pair enabling me to tackle a whole ten car consist up the port grade. Next up on the changes is to add two small air tanks to the roof and a set of airhorns.
