Zscale Monster just got these in and I've been waiting eagerly since they showed the initial prototypes as I like the SW1500, but need DCC. I got a Conrail SW1500 for my first one, but hopefully it's the first of many. But, they suggest using duck bill pliers to get off the shell, which I do not own. I'm always up for a new tool, but has anybody here found anything better? Right tool for the right job and all that.
I have been using a 1" chisel to pry the shell up. It provide even force, while being thin enough to get in-between the shell and the chassis.
Just curious, are these bodies that rigid that a 1 inch chisel would suffice? I’m sure a very thin natured one of that. I’ve never had the luxury of working on one of these yet. What about guitar pics inserted underneath? Don Fedur did some work for me on several locos a while back and sent a pair of “gratis” guitar pics to remove the bodies. But we’re talking MTL thin bodies mind you. One inserted on each side they work like a charm. But maybe these SW 1500 bodies are a bit more rigid????
Funny, I found the answer to my own question in a back issue of ZTRACK MAGAZINE. That would be the January/February 2022 edition. I see the need now for a more rigid tool.
Lance, I've watched it done by the man that wrote the article. It's definitely not for the faint of heart, or those that can't afford to possibly sacrifice a loco shell to a learning curve. Take your time, and exercise extreme patience. And let us know how it goes!
Zscalemonster has that document in PDF form, it's where I got the idea for duck-billed pliers. If I destroy the shell, I take solace that it's a Conrail and they tend to do things that make me less sad about the destruction of things with their name on it. Luckily, it's only difficult once as you can just file the offending nipple down to size once the shell is off.
Kez, actually it’s DRKEN that’s performing the “operation”. Or is it Doctor Ken??? So if the patient dies on the operating table, it’s his fault. I simply got involved in this discussion out of interest for the SW1500s. Although not owning one yet, I was making mental notes in regards to eventually picking one up.
Thanks for the heads up. I ordered mine from zscalehobo because I needed some other stuff from him. So that is two supliers We need to snap these up guys! Alex gets hero status for delivering these so quickly all things considered.
Well, I got the shell off and the decoder installed and it works so far. I didn't damage the shell, but I did damage a truck that needed a busted gear replaced by salvaging one from an old SD70 and I had to reseat one of the motor contacts as i was so focused on preserving the shell I didn't see that other damage coming. But, I seem to be having difficulty in putting the shell back on. I filed down the dimples like they said, but it seems to be sticking before it gets to them. Does anybody with experience doing this have any tips? I'm so close.
Well, it appears after sleeping on the problem, I've got the shell back on and I've got a functioning DCC'd Conrail SW1500. My all black switcher crew is now black and blue. I just had to readjust the motor contacts that was pushing up the board (yet it ran fine). No more late night installations for me.
I took apart my switcher when I got my switcher about a year ago. The decoder is installed, but I don’t know where this part goes into. I think it’s part of the fuel tank.
John, The two Black pieces are part of the "MTL Coupler Conversion" - americanzline.com/docs/SW1500-Coupler-Conversion.pdf
It may not be obvious, but the motor contacts goes through the hole of the board. I made the mistake of not installing it correctly, and it didn’t look right. It was pushing the board up.
Another small detail is the screws are not identical. Machine screws up front for the DCC board and self tapping (wood) screws for the lighting board.
I used a rough (#180) diamond file. It went pretty quickly. I'd be terrified to take a dremel to one of my trains, especially one as small as the SW1500.