All, Those here which have recommend TRU COLOR Paint(s) I Thank you! TheY have come through on painting 3 N-SCALE Locomotives . I'm very happy with the results wHen I arrive in Fl. I plan on Either Microscale Decals , Circus City Decals - Waterslide Decals, Graphic Design, Hobby Or possibly a Friend i have known for years ! Tom
Agreed, I've been using Tru Color for a while now, I like the way the paint dries smooth and glossy. It also has a fairly short drying time compared to Scalecoat.Tru Color is the only one that I know of that has ever made the colors for the North Shore interurbans. Recently I painted two WC SD45s with great results.
I have tried Tru Color Paint and I can not get it to stick to a model. It shoots just just fine. And lays down just fine. I can not get it to stick to model. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Since I have switched to TCP, I have not looked back! Did you washed your models before painting? You may also want to look into their Primer? They have three choices: Primer (Gray), Light Primer (Light Gray) and Clear. I recently painted some N scale Atlas U-boats and even after washing the shells before painting, I still had some of the paint peel after I removed the Tamiya masking tape. When I started painting my Atlas GP35's, I picked up a bottle of their Light Primer (because one shell was painted black, the other was molded in black). The stuff went on really nice, covered really nice right out of the bottle with no thinning required. NONE of the paint came off after removing the tape after shooting the second color!
When I paint; If I have to strip models they go into 91% alcohol They come out and get cleaned with a soft bristle tooth brush, and rinsed in alcohol to get all the paint residue off Then off to get washed in Ivory dish soap Once washed they are dried fully by paper towel and air from my air compressor? with moisture/oil trap shoot color or primer, wait until completely dry; a day or so between colors then I taped off with Tamiya tape, and shoot my 2nd color and so on until all colors are applied. Sometimes I only need to tape once, Sometimes I do not take off all my tape between colors, I will go over what I need to just to save time and headache of retaping something 3-4 times once last color is shot, tape comes off along with one or all colors??? But not always. When I pull tape I pull very gently, I almost want to start HEAVY drinking at this point, when the paint comes off with the tape I do all these things, I have tried with primer and without, and straight paint, I have more or less given up on Tru-Color. Rick from Tru-Color has quit responding to my emails/phones calls. So I am out here on my own. I love the way Tru-Color shoots, I love the way looks once shot, I love the finish, But I just can not have to repaint something 3-4 times. Before I lose what sanity I have left with this one. I buy 200-300 dollars worth of paint, 100-200 dollars worth of a decals every month or so, I do ALOT of painting. I have been painting for 25 years, I have alittle experiance, but this one stumps me. So I am reaching out to this community. For some help. Thank You
I haven't used TCP but, when removing masking tape, I try to pull the tape back as close to 180 degreed as possible to minimize chance of paint lift (as opposed to straight up at 90 degrees). I also often remove some of the stickiness of the tape be applying it to a piece of glass first. I also try to use Tamiya masking tape whenever possible.
Only thing I might suggest is to NOT blow dry them since there may still be a bit of oil leaking through the trap? I wash mine, then set on a the cheapest paper towel I can find, something without any moisturizer or additives and let them air dry. Waiting that long to remove the tape may have an adverse effect? I wait until the paint is dry to the touch and then remove it, and much like tehachapifan does, pull 180° to the surface when possible. Of course this won't allow you just keep masking and painting... But it might be worth a try, that is if you haven't given up entirely on TCP.
I've been really impressed with Tru Color so far. The adhesion and durability are right up there with the toughest paints I've used, the gloss is impeccable, and it cures fast enough that I can mask it ~30 minutes after spraying. The only downside is the bottle they come in. They don't seem to seal very well, and I've heard complaints about them drying out because of it. I definitely have some colors that seem to have partially evaporated on the shelf. Extra thinning gets those back to the right consistency, but I am concerned about the long-term shelf life of the paints.
I always store paint bottles upside down. Wipe the bottle threads and the cap before closing them up. Storing them upside down keeps air from getting in the bottles and drying out the paint !! JMHO
I never thought of that before. I will try that next time. The only other thing I had thought was maybe the plastic from diffrent manufactures was some how causing the issue.
The Dawn with no additives is the type you want. No scents, no 'for your skin' stuff. Then it does wash completely off.
But the stores only sell what they assume there preferred customers want. I'm not in that group. Are you? So when I needed another bar of Lava hand soap I found only the "five and dime" had it. So I bought all 5 of them and gave away 3 to very happy friends. Dawn spray on is a bad joke.
While we're on the topic of Tru-Color paint - What's the best thinner or airbrush cleaner to use after using Tru-Color Paints? I prefer to use acrylics (airbrush cleanup is sooooo much easier) but for certain projects I must use Tru-Color enamels due to the color match.
Tru-Color Thinner to thin Regular Acetone from the hardware store to clean Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
