Does this aircraft hangar look N Scale? N Scale GA aircraft in the doorway! It's 2 1/2" tall other measurements you can see on the pad thingy
Size looks OK but it needs doors. This lists dimensions: https://www.hangartrader.com/find-hangars/hangars-for-sale/10538-texas The planes on the other hand...
Yeah I don't have any doors and the GA aircraft should be right for N Scale? Not even sure I have room for it on my layout bases? If I do I'll paint it grey, and maybe come up with doors or the GA club bought it cheap cause it didn't have doors
So I finally got around to wiring Base B for DCC. And of course at first I caused a short because I was not paying attention Once I swapped two track joiner wires around everything worked. I also felt stupid cause I should have known better, but it is what it is, and works now. Checking how things run now and Might need to drop one on each tiny yard line or at least coming into the yard which is two on each switch. Not really sure you can call it a yard, but in a 2' x 4' area, you have limited space, so you have to kind of compromise. But hey, I like it and that's all that matters really Now time to move onto the AC switches/turn outs and the momentary rocker switches to get them wired. I already tested one above the layout and connected to the connectors I am using to connect Base A to Base B and it worked. Here is the one I tested and worked. Just have to drill holes in Base B for Momentary Rocker switches, and trim all the wires to fit. And add 2 or 3 more Rocker switches for the other turn outs and wire them. Looks worse then it actually is once I get things wired, trimmed, holes drilled, and tidy it all up. Thanks to @Hardcoaler and those sticky clips I bought like he has It not his quality, but better BTW, I also use those sticky clips to hold down my Terminal board, as well as wires, instead of tiny arse screws which was a major paint to screw in and unscrew in a very uncomfortable area underneath the bases. And thanks to everyone that originally helped me understand how to do this wiring. Without all of you I would have been lost, or bought the wrong items. For instance the Momentary Rocker Switches. I had no idea I needed that type of switch. I would have burned up all my switches/turn outs using the wrong items. Thanks again!
YES, finally after month's of procrastinating I have both Base A & B wired for DCC and AC turnouts using the Momentary Rocker Switches, and the Connectors I bought work for connecting A & B base together work too. I did have to fix a connector on one that was not throwing correctly, but now all is good. Me very, very, very happy. Been wanting to get this done for awhile. Might have to drop some DCC feeders to the yard area, and possibly add some more new Remote switches in the future but done for the time being. I have no clue why I though it was going to be easy to reach and throw them all manually? Also thanks for members educating me on those two $5.00 number 6 switches I bought vs #4's. I actually paid normal retail for a new one lately. Me like the Atlas #6 on the mainline vs the #4's, although I do have a few still but they seem to be working for now. Yippee: On to testing the Spray paint I bought for the roadbed to see if it works and/or looks good! As well as other projects now.
Alright I just wired the Atlas #6 turnouts up a few days ago. For some reason the one I just paid $20.00 or so from the hobby shop just recently will not throw all the way when in the divergence thrown position. The other 2 I paid $5.00 each for month's ago work fine. Any ideas why this one will not throw completely to allow the locomotive to pass through? Even when I hand throw it now. Is there an adjustment I can make? Any help appreciated. Atlas #6 $5.00 switches/turn outs! Brand NEW $20.00+ NEW Atlas turn out/switch! Notice Wide divergence area! My Kato ES44DC's won't make it over this turn out? Notice Tiny divergence area and sometimes not even this much!
Assuming you have already checked to see if some piece of crud is blocking the point and you don't want to return turnout, try carefully bending the tip of the point so it touches the rail. Throw it open, hold the rail a quarter inch from the point point with needlenose to make sure you don't strain the pivot, and bend the tip slightly with a second needlenose. Note I've done this with a couple of Pecos, Atlas are more delicate.
Are you concerned about the gap where the arrow is? That gap, whether thin or wide has nothing to do with how wheelsets travel through on the diverging route. As long as your points close against the stock rail as you have it in your photo, you should be fine. It's not the source of your derailments I don't think.
That's a picture of one of the two that work. Here is the one that is NOT working. Notice the Gold area in the black plastic piece. Maybe something has come loose or is broken on this one? It's gonna be a pain as I have to remove my base to remove it, but looks like I have no choice as I need to take it out and look at it closer. Time to take a closer look. I should be able to just lift it out as I should have slack in the wires to take a look. Appears that Black plastic piece in the middle is moving and NOT suppose too? Maybe it is disconnected or something from that Gold piece? Not sure yet.
Alright it appears it might have been an alignment and height issue of the track & turn out Possibly my bad. Further testing needed and I need to adjust the roadbed also for alignment. After I get my Kato ES44DC's running through it smoothly ( fingers crossed ), I'll test it with the Kato Gunderson MAXI-IV Double Stack Car sets. I love those things and my Kato locomotives so far. Then I will know for sure At some point I have to remove Base B and tidy up the wires with the plastic double side tape clips. It is nice to see others have derail issues and shorts at times, so I know we are not all perfect Part of the hobby I guess? I'll keep an eye on it to make sure that was the problem, alignment basically! Thanks for your help.
@Hardcoaler Alright I am waffling on this back and forth. Me thinks it is the turn out NOT working correctly. I'll find out next week as I am going to try and return this one to the hobby shop. Have to find receipt and possibly might be out of the Return area, but will ask anyway. I mean I have to get a NEW one anyway, or 2 or 3. Have to check what I need before my hobby shop visit! Hobby shop visit's are very expensive for me
< I am going to try and return this one to the hobby shop. ... > Maybe the shop owner will be able to determine the problem by examining the turnout. It's hard to see in the photo, but the two rightmost arrows seem to point to something shiny that shouldn't be there.
Yeah that black plastic piece should completely cover up that shiny part by looking at my other two #6 switches. I am gonna try and fix it first and if not attempt a hobby shop return? Although it might already be over 30 days, I can't remember. Even if so, it doesn't hurt to ask them.
Added a Atlas Warren bridge for another water feature, will also be adding a Atlas Girder bridge too. Might make it a Dry area though under it?
Can’t find the thread in my iPhone about electric vehicles charging stations. But this is the one by Best Buy by me. Actually someone using it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk