I'm trying to find a quality N scale strip club for my layout - I'm planning on putting it in a corner of the layout "across" the tracks.
Downtown deco makes a few “wrong side of the tracks kits”. I’ve got kids so they won’t make the layout for a few years. They have a massage parlor and two different “gentlemen’s clubs”. They also have pawn shops, etc. So you’ve even got the option to build out an entire street. Again never used one of their kits, so can’t vouch for quality, easy of construction, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Working on my magnet base mod for my water tower. First I had to make an industrial lamp. I started by cutting a 20mm length of 0.7mm brass tube, and one of the cuts is at a sharp diagonal angle so I have an area to solder the LED cathode to. Then I fish the anode wire through the tube: Next I solder the Cathode to the tube. A dab of flux makes it easy, just pull the anode LED wire tight and the cathode will sit on the beveled piece of tube. Then just touch the soldering iron for a fraction of a second and it's done. I test the LED at this step to see if it lights before continuing: Now i just bend the desired bend with jewelry wire forming pliers: Next I slide a half round bead cap 3mm over the tube and will fill it full of clear parts cement: Then just let the clear parts cement dry. It acts as an insulator between the LED's anode, cathode, and the stainless steel bead cap, and when dry holds everything fixed: Then I mounted the lamp into the new Water Tank Pedestal over the water column insulator enclosure door: And finally, test the lamp with a 9V battery. I also put an orange lamp inside the insulated spout column enclosure to simulate an oil heater glow: I still have a bit more work for this tank before mounting it on the module.
That really looks sharp! Did you make that water tower as well? Now that I think of it the only towers available are your MT kit and the brass one from micron art.
@rray Very nice! And, thank you for the photos of how you did this. Moose must do similar for layout structures, so seeing this will come in handy...
Rob, Very,very nice! Damn you, I wish you still made kits, but I understand. Thanks for posting your process again. Did you know you can get 2.5mm bead caps? Lance uses them. You can get them here: https://www.firemountaingems.com/it...MImbDbm_CE8wIVDuXICh01JQgFEAQYByABEgKbePD_BwE Scott
I found a new tubing that is even easier to bend, and thinner at 0.6mm diameter, and the 0.1mm wire threads through it fine: It's called "Copper EDM Electrode Tubing Single Hole Size: 0.60 mm OD X 400 mm L 20 Pcs/Pack" and I got it off ebay, but is currently sold out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263422080961 It makes even smaller lamps:
New toys, of the microelectronics variety. I just received some snap and solder adjustable buck converters. These devices will convert most hobby DC voltages to others you might need, at a lower voltage. Input 4.5V to 24V and get preset 1.8, 2.5, 3.3,5,9 or 12v or there is a trim pot and you can adjust the output from 8.0v to 17V. You just have to have slightly higher voltage input than what you want out. These are great for running stuff like your Rokuhan turntable off a Marklin power pack (I have done it), or running Arduino's off the 12V accessory power. Costs about $1 a piece after tax. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R6337QY I got a pack of DFPlayer Mini MP3 players. These are tiny, and versitile. They need 3.3v to run, which can be supplied from the buck converters above, or powered directly from and Arduino. The Arduino needs 5V, and if you use the buck converters above, they supply enough current to run an Arduino Mini, DFPlayer Mini, and the Audio Amplifier below. You can build a switch button matrix and press one of 20 buttons to play any of 20 different sounds (MP3 or CDDA files), or let the Arduino trigger lights and sounds on your model railroad project. The DFPlayer Mini will drive one 8 ohm speaker in mono itself, so if you only need mono sound then you don't need the stereo amp below. Costs about $2.25 a piece after tax. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KC9VWDY Also in are Snap and solder stereo audio amplifiers. These will amplify the audio from any line in device or from the DAC output on a DFPlayer Mini MP3 player, and drive two 8 ohm speakers with 3 watts each. Tiny, and perfect for sound on your layout. Costs about 80 cents a piece after tax. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095J3M2PQ
Yes, in fact all Ludmillas were built in the Soviet Union and there was an internal version for the domestic market called TE-109. This version had some minor differences like a casing for cold weather conditions - acts like a radiator on a car, this casing is adjustable - by covering some part, some heat could be saved and the locomotive could be kept running. Temperatures in the Soviet Union could reach - 30 degrees so, this is why this adjustable casing was necessary. There is no casing on german or european versions. Also, there were different ventilators on the soviet version (as well as some 232). Marklin has made a version of ventilators which is more typical for BR130.
I've seen the occasional BR232 (the DB/Railion version) in my country, impressive (and loud!) machines! Haven't seen them for a while though. Looking forward to photos of your adaptations to this nice model! Matt
Rob, if you isolated each T-trak module, used current/HallEffect/opto sensor at each end, Arduino could fade out/in the volume of Stereo spread front mounted speakers. FAR better than SurroundTrax ! Leave a external ‘speed’ pot (potentiometer, for you non-electronic folks) that helps tailor the fade timing. This is just pouring jolts in me to make my shelf layout!
Been away for a while, time is tight and I'm battling some pain issues. Love the lighting project Robert! Here's what I've been up to. You might say I'm on a bit of a vehicle kick at the moment. I snuck in a sneak peak of something I've been working on with Carlos (Pinto), really excited about it. Steve W
Hi, Steve. They look great. I see you have a SCM LLV completed. I can't tell if you have installed the front window. I had a devil of time trying to install them. I have left them off for the time being. If you have installed them what was your method? From outside or inside? I have been working almost exclusively on vehicles for the past year. I've probably completed 100 of them or more. I'm still waiting for more automobiles to hit the market. I'll take a guess and say you are working with Carlos on a Jeep? I don't know what kind of pain you are in but I hope it goes away at some point. I am heading in for surgery on Thursday. Almost one year ago this week I fell off a roof breaking my left scapula and assorted other dings and dents. I will be getting a resultant hernia fixed next. It has been one long, short year. Joao in Portugal has some nice taxi cabs and vintage Cadillac ambulances on his website. I have made 2 of each. Thanks for posting your progress. I like that color green, BTW. Jim
Hi Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I really like SCM’s products. The Blue Ford Cabover in the picture is theirs. I too could not install the windshield in the LLV. I wound up cutting a new one from .005 clear styrene and installed it from the front with Canopy glue. Did the same for the left side window, and used Microscale Kristal Klear for the small triangular window panes. Not the best looking job when viewed up close but it’s passable. I will be adding some extra details such as spot mirrors, etc. The Jeep is from Shapeways, painted to match my recently sold 2004 Wrangler. Carlos is working on an Aerodyne version of his flattop Kenworth K100. It’s in the back right corner in the photo. I sent him tons of info and photos. It’s a favorite of mine, I hope it sells well for him. I have a few of João’s vehicles and have some more coming. I like his products a lot. Sorry to hear about your health issues, I hope the surgery goes well. I’m dealing with a mix of pain from Lyme (and supposedly Fibromyalgia) as well as neck and lower back pain. Some days are better than others… The green is Tamiya X-5. I’m a big fan of Tamiya paints, but lately I’ve been experimenting with Mission Models paint. Nice stuff, but it does behave differently than most other paints. Take care, Steve W
Thanks, Steve. Yes. Some days are better than others. It is good to have a hobby, especially when you are homebound. I will try your method for the windows. I have painted one batch of LLV's (4) in the old red, white and blue paint scheme. I just need to get appropriate "U S MAIL" decals to finish them off. I have so many projects that are just "the appropriate decals" away from being completed. Carlos has been very generous with each of my orders. He always includes something special. Shipping has improved dramatically over the past few months. I get my orders in less than a couple of weeks. The jeep looks great. CMR makes decals in z scale including license plates for every state, if you want to add a little more detail to the jeep. Take care. Jim