I have little to no chemistry smarts. Is the Tru-Color Paint brand one of the above? There is no mention of it on the container other than "contains Acetone". Thanks for the help.
Dave, From Tru Colors site: "What type of paint is Tru color paint? Tru-Color Paint is an acrylic solvent based paint that is designed to be airbrushed directly from the bottle without thinning. Tru-Color Paint can be blended to produce a variety of shades and hues for your specific product needs. Although Tru-Color Paint contains a small percentage of acetone we DO NOT RECOMMEND that acetone be used to thin (dilute) the Tru-Color Paint. Adding just acetone to thin Tru-Color Paint may harm the intended gloss or semi-gloss finish our paint is intended to give as it will dry too fast. Also, too much acetone will cause the solvent system to evaporate too quickly during air brushing causing the painted surface to appear rough and/or it may blush." Scott
Thank you for your response Scott. I have some 3D printed plastic models and was told to use Lacquer base or Acrylic base paints. I've never painted this type of material. I spent a fair amount of $$ on them and would not want to ruin them.
Dave, Where I work we grow a lot of 3D printed parts out of eight different types of resin. I use Acrylic Lacquer, enamel with harder, and two part epoxy type paints without issues. But I suggest you stick with what was recommended. Scott
As one that threw a hissy-fit when Floquil bit the dust, Tru-Color and Tamiya paints have sort of calmed me down. Yes, I like Tru-Color. I am getting to the point where I use Tru-Color for air-brushing rolling stock and Tamiya for buildings and all miscellaneous other stuff.
Yes. I had four footings "printed" at the office for a bridge pier. I airbrushed and then weathered w/ chalks and ink-wash. See the 4 footings the in below picture, bottom of lattice steel bridge pier. They were air-brushed w/ Tru-Color.
No. Our IT manager that printed them asked me how I would finish. He used a light gray color print medium that he said would take paint. I have no clue which resin it was.
My 2 cents worth..... I have painted many 3D printed N scale models (different resins). Most important is to thoroughly clean your model first, using a degreaser/googone/naphta/bestine (just search the web on this topic and see whats easily available). I also like to use an Air Eraser: aluminum girit blasting. This removes small irregularities and the last "fuzzy white stuff" (support material) and roughens the surface a bit (also discussed on the internet many times). Before airbrush painting with your favourite brand ALWAYS use a good primer first! I like Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 a lot (also hides surface blemishes a bit). Tru-Color is very nice and easy but so is Vallejo Air..... just depends on who's got the right color you need (in my opinion). Good luck
In a WORD [3 really]: practice--Practice--PRACTICE I'm still in the "What is this & How does it work BEST stage" with a NEW Paasche airbrush I picked up at a Show. Amazing! Never thought I could "screw up" a model in another way, but with an airbrush, have at it. Before you spray that NEW--Knock 'Em Dead model, that you've just spent, hours & hours building, the Rent Money, the Kids Collage Money and most of Retirement Savings. And She's looking up Lawyer's phone numbers. Buy some old Model Power--Bachmann--Reader's Digest [you know what I'm talking about] rolling stock and practice on them. And practice on them some more. Much better on your Karma to goof up the finish on the cheap stuff, than your top-of-line NEW BABY. Just saying. Don't ask how I know this, you don't want the heartache.
