Well looks like I am returning it. Man this thing was full of lint. Don’t think it is worth $80.00 even with decoder? Took it apart cleaned and oiled it. Makes noise with shell on, won’t move without me pushing it. Not good. Any ideas before I return it. Still don’t think it was worth that amount. What do you think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have I think 4 total but used a couple under FM shapeway shells. Have you seen Mark's writeup ..... http://www.spookshow.net/loco/atlasvo1000.html I have a few of these and the Korean one doesn't run quite as well and I've only tested them on a test track. It has been a wile but don't remember anything really bad about them. I bought one for $80 that came with a decoder so that might be the same as you have. Also I put in a drop-in decoder in one and put a cheaper Digitrax in another. That info is ( HERE ). Sumner
May need the wheels cleaned good and once in motion let it continue to run for about an hour so all the lube has a chance to work in.
I have the China version which is suppose to be better. I paid $800 used as they told me before I checked out and asked if I could return it, and they said yes. I have to admit that after I cleaned the lint out, and cleaned one set of trucks and oiled it if it had worked I would keep it. although I still don't think used it is a good deal now. I have bought much, much better locomotives here on Swap Meet for less that are way better. Gonne try one more time cleaning all the trucks and such, if it still won't start up without a push, after running awhile ( had no idea about the hour thingy ), I will return it. It also seems a switcher would run at slow speeds, right? After all it is a switcher? You know like most people I would rather keep it if I can get it running correctly. Happy to have another DCC locomotive and when my new Atlas U25B motors come in, hopefully I'll have 4-6 great running DCC locomotives, I hope! Thanks everyone!
So running it in reverse it much quieter? What's up with that? Think I need to take it apart one more time, clean the other truck set, and clean the plastic parts with a toothbrush and a dab of dish soap in water, is that right? And let dry over night? Gonna make a quick video. Video of it!
It's frustrating to learn of people selling locomotives for $80 without thoroughly testing them. I mean, it doesn't take much of an investment for a Seller to do this and then honestly describe the results. On eBay I always described running characteristics to be worse than actual so that the Buyer would be pleased.
Have my SD35 on eBay for about 2 months now.. and listed the same honest approach as my criteria is probably tougher than most, especially when it comes to locomotives slow speed performance. Included my issues as well as having been cleared by Atlas but to not avail, no sale however I can sleep every night knowing that I've been as honest as possible.
Definitely sounds quiet and runs quite well. How slow can you go through switches? Really like the VO1000
It kind of sounds like the motor poles are possibly contacting the inside of the shell when running forward. This is very rare, but I think it can happen in certain circumstances.
all of mine had cracked universals would not run without a push and could not haul any cars, easy fix with replacement u-joints
Well if I don't get it working over the weekend it is going to be returned. You also have to understand my local hobby shop, which I am almost sure is the last one in the area. Others closed and they bought some of their stock and they buy from individuals I am sure pennies on the dollar. They are also not very N Scale friendly or DCC friendly, but I know that now, so I have to do a lot of research even while in the store comparing prices on the internet. But, they also have some really good deals if you look. Like the 2 Atlas Remote Switches ( I thought they were Manual ) from the 1990's or sometime for $6.99 each. That's the kind of stuff you can find, if you really, really look! Also, why I asked if I could Return the locomotive. Their prices are all jacked up on N Scale stuff, so you have to be very careful, especially on locomotives. Like they have some crazy prices on just Atlas DCC READY that is way out of wack, like $199.00 each, NO WAY I am paying those prices. Plus I have no clue how OLD they are, even if they are NEW? They also will deal with you if you ask, and I always do. So there is the good and the bad!
Can I use those wipes and eye cleaning wipes on the gold contacts and plastic? Or will it harm either one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Alcohol is fine for plastic. Just make sure it stays away from paint as it may remove some paint that is used to paint plastic.
Alright, first off how many of those little rubber light bulb things that cover them have you lost? I was excited when I found the extra one in the jewel case. Well I took it apart so many times and this particular was loose, and I lost it, dang it, and when I ordered my Atlas motors I meant to order some of those for the U25B's, and forgot, shoot! Not paying that kind of shipping on such cheap items. Maybe next time! Well after taking the VO-1000 apart again and cleaning everything it appears to run much better WITHOUT the Shell on? I can now start from stand still in forward and reverse which I could not do before. Only noise I hear when the Shell is OFF, is the clackity ( real word? ) sound going over my tracks when it hits where the small pieces of track are put together. You know the small pieces Atlas sells of my straight, and curved tracks? Now, the real test is when I put the shell back on, I'm scared Cause that's when it was making the noise really bad, but it would not start up before without a Push and that is not the case now. So IF I can get it to sound quiet with the shell on, should I look at it as a $80.00 learning lesson, ( never should gave been that price ), cause it's cheaper than Harvard or Yale, or RETURN it cause I got ripped off? Which will happen anyway if it makes a loud noise when shell is on. That little Rubber piece that is suppose to cover the light wouldn't make that noise would it! It's so quiet I don't want to put the shell on What say you! I'll report back in the saga of the VO-1000!
The only way I've looked at the mistakes made since I started model RR last October. Definitely incurred a few costly ones and consider, when qualified "paying for an education". If the mistake is mine, and have made many, that's education, it just sucks when not your mistake and the purchased item is faulty in 1 way or another. Sounds like you made progress. Please continue the VO1000 saga...
in2tec, I have been in your shoes many times and and what you are learning now will be invaluable down the road. As far as the brass wheel wipers and alcohol pads in your photo, they work fine but using a toothpick behind it to clean out the indentions where the axle tips go is needed. Myself, I use a microbrush dipped in alcohol and that works best for me. Those wipes can work well for cleaning the wheels and axle tips. As far as the light shield, sometimes they can fit loose on the chassis but when you install the shell it will hold it place tight. Sometimes the viberation noises are still there but only amplified to hear by the shell. Most can be caused by a slight bearing biock wobble or drive line connection. I have some locomotives like my Atlas GP15s that always make noise no matter what I have done to quiet them down. I even have a Kato or two that run noisy until I remove the shell. As long as the locomotive runs and operates well I have learned to live with it. Before I got into N scale, outside of the old Athearn Blue Box, I was never one to brake a locomotive down to just parts and reassemble it but now learning from necessity not only do I do it when I have to, I actually enjoy doing it and the satisfaction I get in fixing the problem. I'm looking forward to see how this turns out for you, best of luck! Ralph
If putting on the shell creates noise and performance issues id check the inside to see if there is any rubbing from the motor on the shell. Get a magnifier and check the inside of the shell carefully looking for signs of the motor rotor magnets rubbing against it. Really reads to me that where you have to push start it that there is enough of an obstruction preventing the motor from getting the inertia to overcome the friction. If it happens in one direction then this would indicate the motor is likely moving enough to create problems due to the difference in direction of applied torque. If the motor is a loose fit where there is play as it sits in the chassis you need to stabilize that. First thing to check is that the frame halves are as close together as they can be. Next thing to check is the plastic cradle/saddle that holds the motor in the frame halves. There are four clips at each corner of the saddle that extend out into the frame halves. Ensure those tabs fully extend out into the frame. If it were me and if you haven't already I'd separate the frames halves to do a full inspection of that saddle and how well the motor is sitting in it. It should be a tight fit and if not then that will be a problem.
