Gonna try again this weekend to align it. One already has the shell off And oil it too. In the video he says he will align it OFF camera to keep us from all the swearing. Amen to that cause there is a lot of it when trying to align that little cog, or whatever it is called. It's a PITA, I'm just saying!
And it begins. Have to check if missing contacts on one side if frame? Apparently not, looking at the exploded diagram, I'm good I sure hope I can get them working? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Important! Don't attempt to "Beardenize" that loco as there appears to be a universal joint in the worm assemblies. The removal of the inner bearing block can only be performed on worms without a universal joint.
This is correct. Beardenizing only works when there is one solid worm shaft. When a u-joint is present it won't work.
When reassembling the bearing blocks, make sure they match orientation wise. Often, but not always, one side has one "line" and the other side has two "lines". Doesn't matter which side you pick, just make sure they are the same.
I don't know what Beardenize means? The motor worked before I took it apart, it would run, just make that noise? And I can turn it freely with my hand?
Someone earlier suggested removing the innermost bearing blocks on the worms to potentially help reduce noise. This procedure was first attempted by Ron Bearden, who responded earlier, and it became know as "Beardenizing". But, as stated earlier, it can't be performed on locos with a U-joint in the worm assembly like in your U25B.
To make sure none of the noise is from the motor I'd run it by taking two short leads and clip them on the track and touch the two motor contacts and run it with the throttle. Sumner
I had leads with clips at one time. Have to see if I can find them? If so I will try testing the motor. I did also notice the trucks need cleaning too, as they do not roll well on the track with my hand or freely roll as I saw in another YT video I should say. Apparently I am gonna learn how to work on a locomotive, or destroy one? Hopefully not the latter Shoot show have ordered some leads when I got the LaBelle #102 oil. Time to order some. Seems like I will need them? You know you have something but just can't find it They are here somewhere, no idea where?
What else I need for my engine facility? Have some old DC Locomotives that need work too? Can’t figure out how to edit a Tapatalk thread on phone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Alright received my alligator clips, man it this stuff tiny, even with clips. The motor is making noise? Now what? Do I oil something?
What kind of noise? It should be a low hum of the core spinning. Anything more than that there's something wrong. One additional step, if you are up to it, pull the carbon brushes and check them for damages or incorrect seating. Lastly, one TINY drop of oil on the output shaft, both ends. If none of the above works, time for a new motor.
Same noise as in the video from the other guy. I'll make a video of my motor noise. Oil I can do, not the brushes I don't think? Drop of oil between the Gold end and motor? I don't have a problem ordering NEW motors, when/if I do, I will get two for each locomotive as 2 of them make noise and one does not and runs fine! Thanks for everyone's help!
I just remembered something about these particular locos. IIRC, they don't have the typical motor mount frames and instead have some plastics disc-shaped mounts on either side of the motor that have to sit just right or they can become mal-aligned. It's pretty hard to get these to stay put (with the tabs properly positioned) when you put the frames back together. Are these by chance rattling loose in your video test? ...looking at the video again, I think I see the far mounting disc moving. If it's loose, that could mean the motor is sitting askew and the flywheels could be hitting the frame somewhere.