No, you didn't miss. Now in retrospect, and for this particular layout, would have been the best option excluding ramping down to meet road. Have 2 of them in different key loco and car loading areas. Initially bought another 2 for the area in question however due how those 2 straight areas were put together (used the extra straight track included in the V7 set) and without buying the small track segments kit, the parallel grade crossings will be off by approx .25 inches or so. Interestingly, and after triple checking using SCARM, matches perfectly to plan but not exact on the actual layout. All track tightly together. I'd consider buying the Kato small track sections kit to try to make up the difference if was running with DC but really want to avoid additional segments...better for DCC. Thinking either making own out of plastic or using the Blair line product but still need to address ramps and space in-between straight track.
Wow, they look very nice! Plenty of space in between parallel tracks for standard road. Does the kit provide some sort of temporary spacers that go next to inside rails for ensuring straightness and space when gluing to track ties? Guess you are doing plaster or some other similar material for road and to ramp up to crossing??
Definitely a negative but since doing a winter scene most plastic covered by woodland snowflake or paint. And, the crossing gates would have to go. Unsure, but don't look like permanently attached. At this point, don't look like either is an option now... :-(
Hello Mark There are no spacers needed nor come with the kit. They simply just lay in-between the rails without trouble. As far as the road, I am using Easy streets. They're made of styrene, and I ramp the road right up against the crossing. Just a simple line up and glue. Then blend grass/dirt around the edges, to hide the gaps underneath.
Thanks... Good possibility. Just visited easy streets and look pretty good. Interesting. The web site shows the Kato grade cross-re-railer for over track but yours look more realistic..
Time to finally buy a 3D printer and let the things you can make with it pay for it. NScale came up with ... ... the crossing above that you can print. More about it on my site here along with some other links that show more about them .... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/3D-Printer-Others/page-101.html .... and I posted his files on my thingiverse.com account here.... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648232 I also have some generic board... ... and brick ... ... crossings that you can print. More in here... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/3D-Printer/3D-Printer-Index.html Sumner
I used White Sheet Styrene .040 cut to width and length. You can butt right up to the outside of the rail...over the rail spikes and the plastic comes right to the top of the rails. Or measure to butt up against the rail spikes. Between the rails measure to butt up against the rail spikes. This gives perfect clearance for wheel flanges and gives a little vertical clearance for trip pins.
Wow, that really came out nice! Have never been good getting things straight so being able to use thickness as temp spacer to ensure clearance. How did you cut the styrene?
Thank you Sumner.. Really like this last one. As a kid, remember most of the crossings were rusted metal which guess that texture could be created as well.. Also, my outside track is only about 1/2" from layout edge and just shorten that side? Its pretty cool that beveled edges can be cut.
I have an old one of these..... PAPER CUTTER It will easily cut .040 styrene. Nice sharp clean straight lines...
Mark.... Styrene is easy to cut with a sharp blade. Get about half way through...and you can snap it the rest. Just watch your fingers !
Oh, slightly left of the notched edge is where need to add crossing. Assuming I can get the piece straight in between rails styrene appears to be most adaptable. Did you or would you use anything underneath to support space in between the 2 parallel tracks? This is the pic...
I didnt use anything under the plastic. There is no weight on it...its plastic...it shouldnt warp. I tried real wood and it warped in the humidity and heat !
If I was still in NJ would be more likely to try wood but here in FL, the humidity capital of the US, it may be best to just do the plastic from the start??
Thank you for all the info... Decided to attempt to use the .040. Do you know the width for the piece that goes in between the rails on the ties? Thank you for all your help and have a nice weekend.. This is the item... https://www.ebay.com/itm/271492127527
Mark..... I do believe it is 1/4 Inch wide. I am not out by the trains right now to measure. THE Wife says its time to get the BBQ going...lol
Thanks for the info. Will make a template with that dimension out of heavy card stock while waiting for styrene. Hope you enjoyed the barbeque!!
Thank you so much for the ideas. A few pictures.. Unpainted and unglued but really think that this was the way to go... Also made a 8' hiker and small vehicle bridge bottom. Bought cutter from Amazon for $10.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NYWF5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wouldn't want to do many more cuts with it but only have (possible Cul de Sac) and station parking lot to do. Any suggestions for cutting cul de sac or circle (3.75" d), or maybe a different idea instead??
