T.H.E.R.R. Reborn!

mtntrainman Jul 9, 2012

  1. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

    Just zoomed in on the wires. Somehow it looks liike I have a BLACK wire twisted in with the RED wires !!!

    :oops:o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O

    The plot thickens !!!!:cautious::sneaky::whistle:
     
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  2. badlandnp

    badlandnp TrainBoard Member

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    Way to keep after it! And, if there is not any of your blood on/in the layout, it's not really yours!
     
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  3. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Sometimes a clear picture helps ;)
     
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  4. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Not laughing at your dilemma. I would be hurting if attempting to do the same thing.

    I still haven't found the viable options I've suggested. Someone else may have some head knowledge and be able to share an idea or two. I need to check with the internet Radio Shack and see if certain fittings are still available.

    I'm sure you have this already figured out. I'm pretty sure our toy train enthusiasm and experience has been similar. Allow me to think out-loud.:censored::censored:

    I think your attempt at wiring these lights-in is admirable and the results add all kinds of life to your Railroad. So, it's not something you want to give up to readily. It's the way and means or how you accomplish the task here that's important. We need to find a way that makes this easy for you. It will important for me as well.

    Got my thinking cap on. That can be dangerous.:confused:

    The problem here is you don't want to start over. I've been there and eventually because it didn't work to my satisfaction I ended up pulling the whole project out and started over. Usually at a higher cost then originally planned. If you get my drift...here.:(

    The other problem we have with lights is how many we can have either in Series or Parallel before the lights pull down more current then is available. All dependent on the Amp., supply you are working with. If the string is overloaded, the result is a dimming as though you used a dimmer switch. I've used that to my advantage only when I don't want the bulbs burning brightly.:whistle:

    I've tried using the typical Tyco Transformers and I'm doing well to get 10 to 12 incandescent lights on one string. I prefer parallel wiring as when one bulb goes out, it's the only one that does. In a series, if one light bulb goes out so do the rest. Annoying when you try to find the burned out bulb. :mad:

    I've also used the milli-amp Radio Shack step down transformers, the amps are just what they say milli-amps. Not full 1-2-3 amps. Not what we are looking for with long strings of lights.

    I don't have any experience with LED's. Not sure how many bulbs you can have in a string before they dim-out. I'm about to find out.:eek:

    I can only hope this helps. :sick:
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2021
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  5. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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  6. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yea...I dont wanna start over. It is what it is and all lights will light...sooner or later...(y)(y)
     
  7. DCESharkman

    DCESharkman TrainBoard Member

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    Take some time and relax, gather some rest and recuperation before starting again. That gives you time to get the suitcase connectors on site.
     
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  8. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

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    What about something like this?

    0200000500009be4000100b6-DE.jpg

    Its a Wago splicing connector. You could probably get away with grouping several wires together and then inserting each group into the connector. Have one splice for power and one for ground. Good thing is no tools needed, just lift the lever, insert the wires and then close. added bonus is if you have any problems with a light, its easier to remove (and eventually replace) the offending item.

    I've been giving this a lot of thought the last couple of days because, at some stage like George, I will be adding a s@#t ton of lights to my layout, and I'm thinking that I will go with these for ease of use (no tools!) I considered things like Dupont connectors with DIY power supply board, soldering, suitcase connectors, wire nuts etc and I came to the conclusion that, although not the cheapest option it is by far the easiest.

    As for how many of these you can power - from what I can see a typical LED N street light draws about 20mA, that means you can effectively power 50 lights per Amp of power supplied, make an adjustment for the resistors on each LED (unless you group them in series to combat the voltage) and I would guestimate that you can have 30 per Amp, so a 3A supply should provide enough to power the lights.

    Edit - just saw your post George and 3v 2A power supply will do the job nicely! no need for resistors!
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2021
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  9. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Chris....

    I gave serious thought to the Wagos. I run a solid 20' long buss line. That means no cuts or splices. When you run your buss for your liights you may find a way to do it different. My lights are already wired into the buss. Granted they are just twisted onto the buss. I sure wish they made T-taps for really really small wire. I just dont feel like starting again with something different.

    Mine are going to work fine in the end. Just a bit more labor intensive and not well thought out...:(;)
    .
     
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  10. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

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    You could T-tap into the bus with and run a feeder line to the connector. I think this is how I will do it. I also have long bus lines running around the layout. 12v, 5v and 3.3v. When I first ran them I had an idea where each feed was going to go so was able to strip a short section of the bus and run it through the connectors I printed. As the layout has progressed I've found that I have to extra add feeds to the bus line and I really don't fancy getting in there with a scalpel to scrape off the insulation so I've been toying with the idea of T-taps to run feeders to a power supply block I'll make either using a WAGO or a DIY Dupont connector using PCB's. I'll probably go with the WAGO so I don't have to spend hours crimping on the connectors for the Duponts- its a tedious task that makes my eyes water.
     
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  11. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    David....

    They dont make suitcase connectors for 28AWG size wire...at least not that I could find anywhere...:(:(
     
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  12. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    What about what Chris suggested? Get a suitcase connector that can work with your existing bus wire gauge and the smallest gauge wire for the tap (the vertical part of the T).

    Then you eventually have pig tails coming off the bus, say 20 gauge for example. Feed these pig tails into the Wago. Now you can have easy connections for 28 gauge LED wires.

    You can use longer pig tails to bring the Wagos to a better location.
     
  13. NtheBasement

    NtheBasement TrainBoard Member

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  14. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::p:D
     
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  15. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    LOTS OF LIGHTS !!! (y)(y)

    38 - regular street lights
    29 - decorative street lamps
    10 - yard lights (2 more to make)
    ____

    79 lights total !!!!!! :D

    95 - feet of 3V buss
    2 - 3v Regulated wallwarts
    7 - lights to rewire

    WHHhhhewwwww !

    I'm 'burned out' on lights...JS :censored::coffee::coffee:
    .
     
  16. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

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    So.... light at the end of the tunnel then? :rolleyes:
     
  17. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    I'm just afraid that light at the end of the tunnel just might be an oncoming train !!!! :eek::eek::eek::eek:
     
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  18. badlandnp

    badlandnp TrainBoard Member

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    OORR>>>>>>Bugs Bunny with a miners headlamp???
     
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  19. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks a lot Crew.
    There's some good connections listed in this posting. I'm just returning to trains and Radio Shack isn't around. Wago supplies dealer is located within 5 miles so will check them out soon. I have to travel by bus or bicycle.
    Many years ago there was a lot of discussion about having the buss line run near the top of the foam and the leads buried in grooves in the foam. So no need for us to use antics to crawl under. The girl friend and her daughters loved seeing me do it but, I didn't. Are those kind of systems still used?
     
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  20. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    You can still do that with the foam and all. But, then when something goes wrong and you need to trace it. As in track it down. You end up tearing up scenery to trace the problem. That's why most of us prefer under the table wiring. Do I dare say most of the time.

    Wiring is a bug a boo. The most frustrating, mundane, tiring part of model railroading. It's also the most rewarding. When it's all together and you have animation and lights on the layout... what a pay off.

    You can make your own wire strips but in George's situaion...aiiyiiyii !!!:confused::eek::sick:

    It'll all be worth it in the end.:sneaky:(y);)
     
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