While I'm figuring out my Texas Type 2-10-4 I'm wanting to build a ATSF E1. Starting point is a Kato E5A, similar nose profile, with minor changes to make it correct. Namely shave off headlight housings and patch the lower headlight housing. Alter the front coupler blanking plate to be more like the prototype. I'll have to add another window to the side window pairs to make them triples. Blank out the side door window. Reduce sideskirts Remove excess rivets on the carbody. Major items: shave off the exhausts, cut a trench where the exhausts were, add a plastice tube with vertical exhaust stacks added. Remove large filter / vent things off the roof. Add roof vents Reverse one of the horns Modify fuel tank Add detail bits. Does this sound feasible? After feedback
I made mine from a Bowser body. Tough metal. But at least I didn't have to make the side windows taller and smooth out the fluting, as it was an E-6A body with no second headlight. Surely you can find an E-6A body. You'll have to blank out the forward side panel upper vent, and enlarge the other two. Chicken wire won't do, but Farr Air filter grill will. I don't remember if the middle vent is far enough forward. I think you blank it and put filter grill ahead if it. But Clinton was president when I did this, so don't quote me. Slept since then. I do recall I had to shorten the "SANTA FE" decal slightly to fit between the longer vents. I didn't bother with the pop-up vents. Yes, the radiator grills need to be blanked. I made the manifolds out of a thick, sandable epoxy with four short pieces of brass tube sticking up from each. One horn should be smaller than the other. Shave the number boards in favor of the tiny, classification light-sized signs around front (number 3 had larger ones installed at some point). If I remember right, I also moved the side panel doors back a bit. Each pair of rectangular windows down on the side panels does indeed need a third added forward. You also need a third cab side window high behind each cab door, and those aren't square. Remember the side panels were stainless. Typical aluminum paint doesn't do them justice. Spring for a can of chrome spray paint. I fabricated a pilot from sheet aluminum and glued it to the E-6 pilot. I was convinced the E-1 pilot was a tad wider, and more flush with the pilot beam (less "anti-climb", meaning not as recessed under the pilot beam). The difference in the pilot is subtle enough I don't know I got it right. Watch truck side frame clearance if you modify the pilot.
Thanks for your feedback - great information! @acptulsa E6 shells have a few issues for me. The nose doesn't have that nice join down the middle of the nose, it's missing a steam vent where the E5 has them in the correct location. The Kato E5 is also cheaper . Lifelike E6's are getting pricey as are BLI ones. I can get FARR Air Filter Grills from Plano. In general what you have said is how I had thought I would approach it. I have some special stainless steel paint which is really good - Alclad - paint the model gloss black then the Alclad - spectacular finish. But don't ever overcoat it with gloss or Matte clear or you get a disaster!
This should be an enjoyable thread! I love those early EMD E units. That said, I have no skills, so I have to enjoy the work of others.
I'm now gonna cheat, I've got a 3D printed ATSF E1A & B shell on it's way so I no longer have to kitbash one!!!
Glad you are going that route. Shells for the E1 have been out there for a LONG time. I have a resin one picked up second or 3rd hand that is mounted to an Atlas/Rivarossi drive that dates it to the 1970s or thereabouts. Recently came across a designer who does very nice work and sells his on eBay. Don't have his E1, but did purchase a shell for a Blue Goose 4-6-4 that is much nicer than anything I've bought on shapeways.
