the B train is very common. and no one makes them. your trailers look good but the landing gear are little to far back. and is that a single axle for the front trailer?
Honestly I guess it probably is a single axle which I never thought about as I was making it. I was working from a picture of a brand new trailer I found online. That format with the single axle under the trailer and two under the extension was how that was laid out and it had a second trailer with the Dual axles. At some level this is a correct trailer given that scenario. As my post suggested it is possible to add more axles so making the lead a double wouldn't be much of an issue. As far as the landing gear being a bit far back that may be a bit more difficult for me to deal with because I am not drawing this from scratch. I assume in order to have the landing gear farther forward I would need to have a shallower Kingpin
I have one of the standard 48ft flat bed kits in transit to me now. Should be in the mailbox when I get home today. Glowing reviews for Jeff's customer service!!!! Fast, friendly, very responsive, and good pricing! Can't wait to get started on the flatbed.
Yep, got it. This is what happens when you don't do it the right way. I see it now too. In all fairness. I am not the designer here and I was just messing around with parts to see what I could make. If someone actually wants these things I will have the actual designer brains make them so they are correct. Thanks for pointing it out. Aside from questions about how many axles. That is adjustable to a buyers desire. My attempt was based on min 3 of axles and pics I found online of actual trailers. If you see other major flaws fire away and we can add the fixes to the bucket list of we ever get an order for it.
Oh, and not that it means spit. I drove for Overnite for 20+ years. The thing about the landing gear really did not register with me because all our pup landing gear were too far back and we had a support bar on the nose to prevent tipping over as you suggest would happen. Just wasn't on my radar to edit is all. (sorry)
the single on the front trailer is fine. i see single and tandems like that all the time. it just was that these trailers would go to places that do not use support bars.
@ns737, most the warehouse in our company are drop and hook sites. No 28ft pup trailers are allowed to be dropped. All our sites have a policy that live drivers must unhook before we will enter their trailer. The exception being any deliveries or pick ups with a pup trailer. In that case the driver must had the loader/unloader the keys and wait in the drivers area, not in the truck. We do not use support bars. Those pups are too unstable at the nose for our product and forklifts so for our company, no matter where you put the landing gear on those things, it's a no go. I know everyone has their own rules regarding things like this but this is just one example for our readers.
Wow, what a read! I haven't paid any attention to this thread until now, and I'm blown away! I too entered in 3D resin printing, and while a complete rookie at it, the detail it can print is super. Nice work, Jeff!
Got trailers got to have some trucks. Messing around with a couple of ideas here going to take a while to figure out how I want to do this. Just like the trailers the tractors are printed without wheels and tires to make that a little bit easier. I am contemplating how much farther I want to take that because he's a painting necessarily comes with more complex build. Any comments as to how everybody would prefer this to be. Easier to paint or easier to build?
Looks great! I'll vote for easier to paint, as I'm OCD about my models, and if it's not painted right, I don't care how easy it was to build, I'll be disappointed with it until it's perfect.
That's a really nice truck tractor cab build. As there are not an awful lot of parts in a typical N-Scale (or for that matter HO-Scale) vehicle, I believe how easy it is to achieve a professional looking paint job is far more important than is the complexity of the build.
This will be the easiest campaign to convince me in the entire history of suggestions to do something a particular way. Being primarily a painter myself it really does beg to be printed in enough pieces to make painting efficient and good. I have already divided the major parts so that the frame can be painted individually. The first way I am going to try will involve some hand painting of Parts but they will be unobstructed for the most part. I will print it and give it a test run and see if I need to divide it anymore. Stay tuned.Thanks for the comments verifying what I basically already knew.
So on your b trains yes the landing gear is slightly to far back. As for the axles they are correct as I used to pull a Canadian B train set hauling Canadian Cedar into Washington and Oregon. Also hauled a US B Train set for the same company. Difference being in the distance between tires. US axles are closer to each other standard, where as the Canadian axle spacing is a little bit further apart. Canadian weight restrictions are different than US along with our US dollies having an adjustable tongue shorter for Canada longer for US. Hope this helps.
I guess we could do this conversation here. Others may be as interested in this topic as I am. We could alternatively carry this out via direct messages to each other your choice. First question that you raised by your comment. B train and Dolly do not seem to go together in my head. My understanding that the primary difference between a B train and conventional tandem trailers with a dolly was the dolly or lack thereof. Maybe I am assuming something which is somehow incorrect. B trains seem to have extended frames which would support the second trailer rather than having a add-on dolly. Start with that fine point and go from there.
Your absolutely correct meant to say the dollies on the A trains we pulled 40-45-48 foot lead trailer with a 24 or 28 foot pup. My bad for leaving that part out tired gonna call it a night or day whichever works. Toodles
According to Wikipedia, a B-Train consists of two trailers that are linked together by a fifth wheel, thus not requiring a converter dolly. Typically, the fifth wheel is mounted in the area that is located directly the above the second and third axles of the lead trailer.
I posted before about picking up one of the 48ft aluminum flatbeds from Jeff and finally was able to work on the flatbed over the weekend. First thing I noticed was the outstanding level of detail. Removing the trailer from the spurs took a little time but went well. My one issue was I broke a mud flap. That was easily repaired with some super glue. I will add that I have done some 3D printed trailers from other sources and am batting 1000 on breaking one mud flap per trailer. Clean up was easy. No issues there. The only thing from this kit that I am a bit unsure on is the how the wheels go on. It is a cool set up but different from any I have done before. Not really sure I did them correctly but they look good to me. I really do like the wheel options and those 10 hole aluminum wheels are super nice. All the advise and tips that Jeff added throughout the communications about this kit has been very useful. I really appreciate the attention to customer service that Jeff provides. The only thing I have left to do is apply the conspicuity stripes and the trailer will be ready to show off.
The wheels are sorta tricky. Thanks to resin and deviations in shrink when cured. The wheels are thin. The tires are thick. It's a problem. Thankfully the solution is only a hassle. Not hard. It's even only a hassle given it is not direct slip on. I have decided the mismatch in wheel hole to hub diameter is best left on the error side of hole a bit too small. It's easy to clean out with a circular needle file. Couple counterclockwise twists at a time. Counterclockwise because that cleans vs clockwise which bores. The hole is not off by that much. When it presses on then you found the correct diameter. The reason I opted for this is simple. A hole too large can not be made smaller. You get a wheel which is not centered. I am still sorta new to this 3d printing game. Maybe I will figure it out and get the ratio of deviation between one part to another so cure shrink gives the desired result. In the mean time the fix is not hard. If you can paint and build this is something anyone can handle. BTW. I assume I sent you the wheels preassembled. So they should have been properly fitted already. If they fell off in transit, possible. Then you just have to try each wheel on each axle like a puzzle. Happy to hear you like it otherwise. They will only get better with experience.
