Don't tell a Corsican (or maybe even your wife, whom I remember she was born over there) that living in Corsica you're living in France. Bullets may fly low in this wonderful location. Dom
You are absolutely correct NEVER! NEVER! Call a Corsican, French or Italian! Speaking of here on New Years you will always hear all sorts of bullets fly ringing in the New Year! FREE OUR PIGS!!!!
I'd rethink the 2 by 12. They would be really heavy. Also I wouldn't be screwing into the side of the plywood regardless of the thickness of it. Maybe I misunderstood that. Don't take this the wrong way but maybe break up a long post like that into some paragraphs. Is much easier to read that way. Sumner
Yep 2x12 wood would be too thick. Maybe I should said 1/2" or 3/4" x 12' panelling. Yes I would rather have it glued and screwed/nailed to the outside of the plywood. Yes I will glue and screw blocks in the corners and along the edges too.not only for support for the corners but also for the folding legs. This outside barrier plus the plexiglass should keep the foam and scenery safe from an future CATastrophe! You are correct, I should have paragraphed the post
Here is a suggestion... More or less what I did... http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/page-2.html ... and a fairly common solution to the problem. I still need to add the fascia. Good luck with your build, Sumner
The Fascia I would like it to be even with the top of the foam board and thick enough to support some plexiglas and strong enough to apply an handle for moving purposes and holding controllers and beverages.
In the drawing the fascia does go to the top of the foam. Substitute a heavier plywood of your choosing for the 1/8" Masonite, Sumner
One thing to also consider is raising the fascia above the layout surface about 1/8" above the nearest railhead. With Kato N Scale, that's about 3/8" (1/4" + 1/8") above the layout surface. I've done this on all of my layouts and it's saved me from ever losing a derailing locomotive or car over the side. 1/8" is low and won't interfere with photography either. Just a thought.
That sounds like a plan to have the little wall about 5/8" high. Thing is will it prevent an CATastrophe?
I cleaned it up some. The double crossover and the curved switches were overrated. I was even able to expand the yard's length by 7cm per track!!! Got rid of the middle track going into the yard and swapped out the triple to an Wye. In turn I will have two classification yards, with the middle track being used for the main line. Plus I cleaned up the zany industrial area and was able to centre the layout without having the bumpers hang over the edge. I am not promising that I am done with this design, but I will say I am learning how to make something from my idea practical and useful. Now I can go back and look where I will put the crossings to access the yard and narrow down my search for structures and where I can put the tunnels and rethink where I can put the once idea of using a divider without overpowering one side for the other. This program makes your rethink every thing and helps improve designs. Hopefully by spring I will be able to start on it. I will keep y'all posted.
Ok I will hate to do this. I was wanting a sizeable 12 track yard for my layout. The siding in-between will be considered the mainline for both tracks, allowing for the through track be used for staging/separating tracks for the incoming and out going trains. The minor issue is the wave created by the triple switches. Wondering will this cause derailment issues moving cars into the yard or not? Well if I use the regular turnouts I will loose real-estate by having a yard that will hold less cars. Plus it will look funny if I keep it at twelve tracks. If I deduct it down to a ten track yard, it don't look as bad. Also a plus I will gain more storage for more locomotives and cabooses, using al of my extra track without wasting any. Though I will be able to extend the straight section on the four foot sides some. I was asked before on another site, where was this design coming from. This yard is loosely based in Osawatomie, Kansas the Missouri Pacific Yard. Though I will be modelling more of a East Texas meets Corsica France diorama. The New 2020 MPHS calander (March) has a photo of this plus google maps can verify it down to the roundhouse. Yes, prototypically the roundhouse and the locomotives extra tracks are on the outside of the curve. Thats why I said loosely based. Yes, I will be dividing the layout to give two(yard side and industrial side) different views. Here's a screenshot of the real yard area from google maps and the design layout compared to if I used regular turnouts, with less yard track. If I tried to use the same amount of yard tracks this would look silly. Yes, I was able to recenter the regular turnout yard after the screenshot.
When I got back into this I didn't have a real idea about designing a yard (still not much better) but this youtube from Ron helped a lot.... .... have looked at more pointers after it but it was a good start, Sumner
I had to rethink a lot of my current design also yes his video is a very good explanation. That's why I designated the middle track the main line. Yes its not a direct route through the yard. Though it keeps the two different sides free from clogging up the main. Plus I can reroute the running train if needed if I am also operating the industrial area without slowing down the running train. The two tracks where the main will normally run though one will be the classification and disassemble tracks. The other will be storage and future build up of trains. The caboose track and locomotive sanding and refuelling track is opposite of the roundhouse.
Just wondering, I am familiar with OSB board. I know how finicky it can be using in layouts. If I applied it to a one or two inch thick foam board on top, would this work well? Or should I stick will Plywood for the construction? The Plywood or OSB will more likely be mounted to a folding table, so the sturdiness will on the table itself. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cosco-96-in...ble/1000682969 Let me know if this could work. I will join the table with short flush mount carriage bolts through the table prior applying the foam board. This will be fasten by wing nuts so if needed so it can be easily removed and moved to another location if needed. Yes, I will be needing to put disconnects for the wires that will have to go through the table for removal if necessary. Any information of past or present experience will be greatly appreciated.
Speaking from experience long ago, OSB is miserable stuff to work with. It chips, splinters, has poor rigidity and will cut your hand if you aren't careful handling it as you work. I hope you wear safety glasses during all of your carpentry, but with OSB it's absolutely essential when sawing it. Nah, spend a bit extra and buy plywood.
Do you know of any other material that people have used besides plywood for the table? I was thinking along the line of PVC like sign material. But I am not sure what size it comes in and what store would normally carry it. If I was to stay here in France, I would be using their version of plywood. https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/pro...-nautique-ep-15-mm-x-l-250-x-l-122-cm-e105229 Which is bigger in size, thicker and made from some good wood. The price I am not concerned about.
