Hi all, I was thinking about picking up this engine and does any one have any thoughts about it? Will it run well on Atlas code 80 track that has 11 inch radius curves? Thanks Paul
Did you read the spookshow reviews? I got mine for cheap (before I read the review) but luckily mine was a good runner. I can't say the same for others. My take: The detail on the body, drivers, and steam rods are real nice. The metallic heft is great too, and makes it a good puller even though I own the version w/o traction tires. It can easily pull all of the cars I own (not a lot - 10). Seems like it is geared towards low speeds. Not a very high top speed like the diesels and passenger locomotives. You do get some flickers of power every now and then if your track isn't perfectly flat/parallel/clean. This is because the tender doesn't have 4 electrical pickups, only two. It will run fine on the 11" curves but you may need to remove the spring on the front pilot. With it, the pilot tilts at an angle along the curve and can come off the rail. For the value, I'm more than happy with it.
Any time you are thinking about buying a new or used engine, you should go to Spookshow : http://www.spookshow.net/index.html This guy tells it like it is. The INDIANA RAILWAY does NOT acquire any new engines, with out checking the engine out on Spookshow. NO BS, just an honest evaluation. If you feel the guy done some good [and he has], a DONATION to his website, would be WELCOMED.
Forgot to mention earlier, I run it on Atlas Code 80 no problems. Like I said just make sure your joints between sections are level or else you will get a flicker of power.
I have older versions of the Pacific, those issued before the MRC takeover of MP. On each one, I swapped out the half wheels live stock tender for an all wheels live Bachmann SPECTRUM USRA standard tender. It made real winners out of these things. The slow speed control is excellent. They run smoothly. They are a bit noisy. They will operate on eleven inch radius curves. As others have posted, be sure that your joints are good and that they are smooth. Much of the detail is cast-on. In this age of separately applied details, this is a drawback, but it is tolerable until something better arrives. I suspect that MP used cast on details to hold down the cost. As there were numerous calls for separately applied details, MP did add some on its Mogul and eight wheeler. The USRA light Mikado is similar. I do have several pre-MRC and one MRC version, without the sound and decoder. I did have to swap out the stock tender for a B-mann SPECTRUM, even on that, as MRC retained the half wheels live tenders on the initial issues of these. I understand that MRC has since gone to an all wheels live tender on this one. The tender on the MRC eight wheeler is all wheels live. If you do not get one with an all wheels live tender, I would do the swap. I have used either the B-mann or Kato USRA standard. The B-mann is a bit easier, especially if you get a later version with the prongs to accommodate a decoder. If you are not using DCC, all that you need to is solder the wires from the locomotive to the two outer prongs on each side.
I have four of them in different road names. I've only been able to run one of them and it did real good until it found a puddle of WD40. My bad, but those drivers caught my eye as they slipped, spinning out of control. Some clean-up on block Main #6 and the drivers and we were back up and running. I know you are asking why I was using WD40? Because Radio Shack closed out the store in Big Bear Country and I couldn't buy their electric contact cleaner. I was out and grumbling, a lot. By the way the diesel I cleaned up, with WD40 is still running and doing just fine. Not sure who is grinning more the diesel with the Santa Fe Cigar Band, or me. About Model Power. This is most likely the best locomotive they've put out. Compared to my early Rivarossi steam I'd say we have a rival. Certainly not a Kato. It does have a die-cast shell, (with weight centered over the drivers) the drivers are geared up (just the way I always thought it should be), pulling power is better then average. Seven freight cars up a better then two percent grade. Mine came without traction tires. No regret's. I have plans to power up the tender to improve electrical contact. A happy camper.
It should also be said that after a while, my experiance about a year, the drivers loosen from the axles and go out of quarter. I have yet to find a good way to fix this. This happens on both the 4-6-2 and the mikado.
The quartering drives me nuts as well. There is a tool we can buy that will help us. Try finding it? Most of the hobby locomotives (notice I called the steam engine, a locomotive because it is, diesels aren't) those I have on hand will go out of quarter when the wheels loose traction and spin or someone drags them down the track. Rule #2 Never drag a locomotive down the track. Rule #3 Don't tap on a locomotive or diesel. #4 You may nudge it slightly. However, if your going to this much trouble to get a locomotive started then it's time to clean the brushes, wheels, electrical contacts and track. A good electrical contact cleaner will resolve most issues. Your asking what's rule #1? Rule #1 Be sure the layout is plugged into an electrical wall outlet. Don't test the outlet with your fingers. Frizzy hair is not becoming. Okay back to the quartering issue. Most locomotives: The plastic drivers on either side of the locomotive are attached to each other with a metal axle. Both drivers are pushed onto the axle. A friction type of fitting. If they slip at this point, as in one slips moving ahead or behind the other driver, then you have a quartering problem. My B-mann locomotives are infamous, for doing this. They love pulling pranks like this on me. Before we go any further. I'm a mortician not a mechanic. So when I try to describe something I sound more like a surgical technician then a mechanic. There are others here who are better at dealing with and describing said problems. But what the heck no one said I wasn't allowed to put in my two cents. Quartering and the problems it presents is the reason why you'll hear me grumbling about traction tires. Never mind they wear out fast and break at the most inopportune times. Thankfully, Bull Frog Snot, came along and is my preferred replacement. Busy day ahead. So more later.
I got 3 of them when they came out in what 2003 or so? Anyways mine ran great, but I was using Peco turnouts with Atlas flex. All 3 were great runners, but I only ran them for a year before getting into Z Scale. I still have them though.
Had one, sent it back. Was a bad runner, and the draw bar connecting to the tender was terrible to say the least. The wires running from the tender pretty much held the two together, the draw bar was useless.
Funniest thing I have read on TB In ages !!! Steam was so good...its history. Ya ever notice that when they restore one of them damn things...they have to have a diesel in there somewhere to push that steamer down the track !! As far as our toy trains. All I read about is steamers out of quarter...throwing rods...linkages...and a slew of other problems. I'll keep my diesels and be running em while you sit at the workbench with your optivisor on...cussin... **disclaimer: Rick and I are good trainboard friends. I like to get his BP going up now and then...LOL
You should still be careful. He's not the only person around here who measures his blood pressure with a steam gauge...
George, who's he? LOL What? What's so funny. Steam engines are locomotives because, can you guess? All the locomotion going on. You don't see that on a diseasel. Gosh darn, I just can't get George Trained. It was easier to potty train my kids. LMAO Oop's, got's to watch that pop-off valve. He's right we are good Trainboard friends. Wish it could be more but we are to far apart. I'll let you in on a little known secret. Most of my steamers will most likely sit out their time on my roster, in the box. I don't want to spend that time at my work bench as George described. Oh, I'll get them out on occasion but I don't want them messed up. Funny George, just plain funny. Well played.
Hey Rick...just an FYI... We may be moving to Winnemuca Nevada. A plan still in its infancy. If done....you will be just up the road on 95 my friend...
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh...another modeler who likes to spend more time at the workbench then at the layout....
Now I like the sound of that. It's a fairly easy drive one I should be able to do. Then you'd have to put up with me in person. How cool would that be?
Agreed on all counts, a good runner with a funky pilot truck. This is mine and the pilot truck won't even rest flat on straight rail; you can see it lifted in the photo. Even the trailing truck is lifted here. Maybe I should just convert it to an 0-6-0. <g>
I've done this with other locomotives. I don't know if this will work as I haven't tried it. Take a small washer and place it on top of the trucks in question. I can only hope this works.
