Richard, We members can not change or alter the title from the original posting. However, one of the TB folks can do it for you. On the bottom right of your posting see the "Contact Us" key. Click on it and it will bring up a window that you can fill out your request, send, and it should get handled. Carl
Rick, I found this diagram for you. I assume you’d be using the micro. Don’t be confused, it is same diagram orientation (wires to the left) just split front and rear. Again on the F3a for ease of set up, you’d want to use yellow for mars light, white for headlight, aux 1 could run pair of 402s for number boards, aux 2 could be used for pair of “ladder lights” (I don’t know what they are called?) or illuminating the portholes. Note: ESU decoders are a little old school in lighting, in that all positives for all your leds go to the shared BLUE. Only the negative will go to white, yellow, green, etc. And judging by the diagram, you’d need a resistor as they are apparently set up for 12v bulbs... hopefully they will change this on v5.0. Having done one install of this “old school” type, I now detest bulb style boards. Here’s an SF just for you And a Rio where you can see the lights better.
No videos (sorry) but BOY AM I GLAD I WENT WITH THE V6 set instead of standard or v5. Even at 13.75, an ac12 only makes it around the curve by hiking up its front set of wheels on the rails. Kind of like Claudette Colbert in “It happened one night” I really need to reset this thing, as the function buttons are all over the place, and get some kind of logic to it. No offense to the prior owner, but I can’t figure out what they thought they were helping with their function reassignments. And wow is it ever slow. Like my Katos on speed step 25-30 are faster than this thing flat out. It really does need a regearing or a really high speed motor. I was thinking of risking early death at the hands of my wife and converting the GS4 to loksound, some 3 weeks after I converted the lighting to DCC ... but I have a stack of 3 unused em13 decoders here, that would make it 4, and it would not be pleasant! After experiencing it today, Sound is very cool (novel?), but it does get old after about 20-30 minutes.
Actually, I'm just wrapping one up. Now just to download the "4449" FT File and play with the LokProgrammer to adjust CVs, etc.
Will be pleased to make your acquaintance in person in a couple of weeks. I’ll be the guy wearing a Daylight hat! Between now and then, I have to get busy painting the interiors of 17 of the cars... kitchen can stay as is, lol! And also get lights, diaphragms , couplers, and decoders into the new F3s, and learn how to consist them! So stay tuned!
The key to good consisting is to first use decoders that support the TRIM CV's, CV66 and CV95. The next step is to give them exactly the same speed table, do not use the 3 point method. Now you can place them on the track and match their speeds by adjusting the TRIM CV's. In this approach the locomotives are closely matched across all the throttle settings. You should see very little to no coupler motion when running, slack or taught behavior.
Thank you David! All three units (including the B unit) will have identical TCS KO8D-B units (figured that was best option to start close). I run a force flat speed table in jmri at present, and I can keep that the same, and just mess with trim values by doing programming on main. Match them to which ever one seems to be the slowest. Is there any preferred speed(s) step to use in this method? I was not a fan of the 3 point method John from TSG was demonstrating, tough I did like the concept of using a circle of track to easily see if they were matched.
Well you want to use the 28/128 step for best results, and I still recommend using a consistent speed table over a flat line. This will make the units tack closer together. (This is an example for a Zimo decoder, your screen will be different using TCS decoders) Also, it is better if you select a maximum speed, then the slowest locomotive doesn't really matter. The trim settings are at 128 for neutral trim. Any values lower slows your locomotive, and any value higher speeds up your locomotive. 28 steps to match is a lot better for speed matching and control than 3 steps.
Thanks, so you like a constant ratio curve... makes sense as the visual perception of an increase in speed is not linear,
It is more about increasing the number of matching points than the curve. The more matching points the better control your consist will have. I use this curve because it emulates the real motion response.
So I began this project today. Just 16 cars more to go... now that I have a little practice, I’m confident the head rest covers on the next one will turn out better. And this arrived in the mail also, Unpainted on Left, Painted on Right
I got a slight roll eyes and “I’m glad you can afford to support your hobby” comment, so I think any new purchases are on hiatus for now, lol. Unless someone sells a lot of 1953 era correct PFE reefers... But twenty cars for $10 each (even though one of them is 1954 and useless to me) to add to my 6 or so I’ve collected so far? I actually have a CME/CMW Overnight now! Just need to put together the other F3A and F3B so I have something to run fast freight... though I might let her run the AC12 with them for now, just because it would look even more amaze-balls to see an ac12 pull 25+ black overnights and a caboose. I think a black wash will tone down the ones that are over weathered... it’s the SP, not Santa Fe or UP after all... Note to self, you need to build a LOOOOOOONG SHELF LAYOUT AT SOME POINT...
I wouldn't worry about what you may construe as bad comments. Buy what pleases you. I know guys on here who have deep pockets. I have very shallow pockets. I can honestly say the largest percentage of those with lots of money haven't ever looked down their noses at me for not having lots of money to buy toy trans...and I have never begrudged them their money or purchases. Its a hobby after all...we all enjoy it the best way we can.
Well while I was waiting for the green to dry I got one of the brand new super black ones and decided to use some thinner to knock the shine off and add a bit of weather to it. Can you tell which? I also did some work to the silver one for funsies, whipped some of the reddish weathering off with thinner, and sooted up the roof some with black panel line and used some brown to grime it up a bit. The worst off them are cleaned up enough to match, and the new ones will be easy enough to dirty to match. Whomever did the initial weathering though, hats off to you sir. Very nicely done overall, just needed a little adjustments here and there.
Thank you for the support and positive vibes... it wasn’t here... it was my WIFE when she got home and saw a big box marked SP OVERNIGHT on the kitchen table... lol. Sorry I didn’t make that clear. No worries, usually my pockets are so shallow they are turned inside out! Just happened to find the deals I’ve been looking for, and on the right period correct items that are on my list, when I happen to have money from my annual bonus that I can spend.
