I use Unitrack directly on plywood inside THERR RV. I have zero 'noise' issues. I used latex caulk to 'glue' it down. My layout is in a non temperature controlled enviornment. Temp swings from near zero in the winter to 100+ in the summer. I have never had my track move in any direction. I have when I used other methods to attach it to the plywood in the past. JMO
Nothing is better for sound deadening than cork. I used the following to cover the entire tops of my current modules. I run four loops of Unitrack just resting on the cork. Four trains running at once makes negligible sound. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-2-f...ayment-Sheet-30-sq-ft-5-Pack-72005Q/203110563 HD will even ship it to your door free if you buy two packages (my store didn't carry this item).
Elmer's Glue-All, maybe Wood Glue. With either of these, you can remove fairly easily. If you go with liquid nails or even hot glue on wood, you may damage track removing it some day down the road. Many people will use rigid insulation foam beneath, which allows them to modify the terrain lower than the track's elevation. Directly to plywood is just fine as well, just depends on your preferences for scenery. Dave
I've always liked Aileen's tacky glue more than Elmer's. It is a first cousin (water soluable, cheap white glue), but unlike Elmer's it does not dry rigid. It is still flexible. Just like Elmer's, a small amount of water and it becomes liquid white glue again. I believe that it also sticks to a broader range of surfaces. As Dave suggested, I would NEVER use any kind of permanent glue with UniTrack.
I'm in the same boat as the OP. I'm looking at how to mount Unitrack to some modules with plywood tops. I bought a roll of Imagination Station cork from Hobby Lobby, but it's a bit more stiff and crumbly than I thought, which got me wondering if it might have problems over time due to shrinkage and/or cracking. I kinda like the Aileen's tacky glue idea. If it stays flexible after drying, I wonder if a bead around the base of the roadbed could double as a mild sound buffer as well...
I used hot glue on my hollow core door layout 8 years old & latex caulk on my T-trak mods both have held up fine. The Kato track is bullet proof!
[QUOTE="engineer bill, The Kato track is bullet proof![/QUOTE] My 9mm Glock says otherwise...... sorry could not resist
Works excellent! I didn't know it comes in slate gray. I have used the clear one. Goes on white, dries clear so you know when it's thoroughly dry.
I almost went with the clear. Last minute took the slate gray. Unitrack has a gray-ish look. the Dap is paintable. Think I may try a dry brush of white to blend it. A very small bead of the Dap where the Unittrack meets the plywood...spread with finger and your done. I did mine 4 years ago and it hasnt moved...buckled...shifted...no ski jhmps...no snake looking track. It just stays put. I highly recommend it
I don't think track nails work well with Unitrack. If a mechanical fastener is desired, Unitrack is designed to be screwed from the bottom up. And locating that post from the bottom up can be challenging. Unitrack is not designed to be nailed from the top like typical track though there is nothing stopping you from doing that.