I'm getting to the point where I need to make a decision on this subject. I'm very interested in the controls available from www.humpyard.com. They look and work great from everything I'm told. I've searched this topic but I'm not having any luck finding modelers who've posted complete tutorials online on how to build them from scratch... switches, levers, linkage, etc. I'd like to build them myself if possible, without having to reinvent the wheel. If anyone has a good link, please post it here. I will also be willing to post a tutorial on how I built my controls if I end up building a reliable and inexpensive alternative.
Mainly by way of bumping this up for you ... I did use a similar product (though not nearly as nice as those I think) many years ago on an N gauge layout. A lot of faffing around with getting the cable sleeves routed IIRC. At those prices (given that "clamps, wire, sleeve, stand, lever, mounting brackets, coupling, brass hardware and power routing switch is supplied in the kit") I'd think you'll not save much by scratch building them - if that is your motive
Thanks Mike. Cost is a factor, but more important is a good cable system design. My layout must be portable, and I want controls mounted in one spot as well. In my search for materials I found the following lever system. Seems to be the Mac Daddy of all control systems: http://www.modratec.com/index.php
IronHead: Take a look at the Railimages accounts for Caddy58 and Wolfgang Dudler. These gentlemen have both put together some linkages to manually control turnouts on their layout. Hidden in among their layout pictures are a few showing their turnout actuators. (Have a good time looking through their RI albums: they both have dozens of wonderful pics of their layouts that are inspirational!). A few months ago there were 2 or 3 threads about manual turnout actuators, but I haven't been able to find them...probably because Caddy58 and Wolfgang's posts were on threads that were started by someone else. SOO,MILW,CNW makes a reference to Caddy58's thread in his thread about "Push-pull" actuators. (I'll try to post a link to it here.) Wolfgang may have a link to his personal website that shows a description (a tutorial?) on his linkages...I'll see if I can post that, too.
Train1, those are so simple, that they are brilliant! Great idea, I might have to steal that for a couple of front-edge turnouts!
I have made similar mechanical controls, but mine use the Peco spring to ensure point contact; not the best solution. Wolfgang Dudler's turnouts also have an electrical component that give positive electrical point contact. Check here.
Train1: Caddy58 and Wolfgang have variations that run under the layout. I've put together dozens that run on top of my layout like yours. Mine, however, used rods inside smaller diameter brass tubes which tend to be more expensive than insulation stripped from thick wires, but might be a little easier to hide. If the distance isn't more than 2 inches, I've just used a slightly thicker brass rod without the tube. For some rods/tubes over 2 inches, I've connected the rods directly to ground throws positioned at a distance (due to close track centerlines) or to tortoise actuator wires that had to be mounted at a distance from the turnout (due to supports/framework directly under the turnout). This pic shows the rods connecting throwbars and tortoise actuator wires. When I decide exactly where I want to position my road to hide the rods, I'll slip some brass tubes over the rods to stiffen them (instead of using the nails that currently keep the rods from bending) and then build up the road hiding the rods with layers of spackling or drywall compound. On a previous layout, I used small tubular beads stuck on the bent end of the rod for handles.
The wire I use (florist wire) comes in various gauges so they can be used with or without the 14/2 tubing. I just figure it makes it easier to scenic. The heavier gauge the more length can be accomplished. The tubing also allows you to bend the control wire in a curve if you have a turnout that does run parallel to the table edge. Oh Yea ! Did I mention inexpensive ?
I am using RC airplane cables with PECO Turnouts. If you are interested here is the link to a former Thread: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=80011 Cheers Dirk
I used wire-in-tube for the turnouts on my first layout. After a few years a few of them seized up - the steel wire got a bit rusty and made it hard to push the rod without damaging the turnout. Here's a bit of advice, which I was given a bit too late for my own layout - run a pencil point up and down the wire a few times before inserting it into the tube before final fitting. The graphite gives you some lubrication inside the tube and many hours of trouble-free operation. Another good bit of hindsight advice I was given - even though you can't afford turnout motors now, still drill the holes for them under the turnout. You might want to (and can afford to) install them at a later date, and it's much easier to do so if the hole is already there, than trying to drill it under a well-seated turnout. Jon
When I used the wire in tube I found the tube was the same OD as the extension nozzle for my spray can of WD40, so each tube got a blast of that before I put the wire in There was a layout at Nottingham had a control panel at each end like this: I guess this is the sort of thing Ironhead is wanting to achieve.
