Are there replacement brass handrails available I'm not aware of? I am looking for something more prototypical than the flat etched ones. Are any available made of brass rod? I am updating a lot of things and the first thing I notice is how out of scale handrails are, especially the styrene kits. In real life most railings are made of tubular steel. Has anybody else made their own to look like these? Thanks, Jim
A Z scale 4" handrail would use gauge 25 wire. A 3" handrail would use 28 gauge wire. You could solder that to get what you want.
Actually, I've never tried. I just did the math. Both those gauges are pretty thin, but it should work. Here's some 28 gauge brass wire from Amazon that's fairly cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Artistic-28-...521136362&sr=8-1&keywords=28+gauge+brass+wire Good luck.
Seems like wire might work fine for a display piece, but I can't imagine trying to keep that wire straight and plumb on a running layout model. This is the reason that Z handrails (that aren't plastic) are almost always flat brass........it's the only thing (aside from molded plastic) that will remain straight and in place when bumped or brushed against. Just my two cents.......
Thanks, guys. I thought wire might be too flexible. I suppose I can make a jig and solder some stanchions and see how they come out. Most of what I want to replace are the ones that came with the original kits. I wouldn't put them on a loco or anything that may be handled. Whenever I look at something I build and I ask, "What would improve its appearance?" It is almost always: handrails. I understand why they are etched. Any other way is labor intensive. I was thinking of using common pins or some wire similar to it. Jim
I have used 0.25mm phosfor broze wire and 0.4mm or 0.5mm round brass which was filed flat. (The suppoers were first bend to fit in the GP38-2 shell holes, afterwards filed flat) ...and a steady hand. I have just glued it together with CA gell and reinforced it afterwards with a little two part epoxy glue. It looks better than the standard railings on a GP38-2. It lasts already for a couple of years now. for details see next link: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPXv3fdQ81BH66dPsnzrytsxPC4I0HxIA2fvsXp
Jim , soldering did not work for me. But if you have a resitive soldering device like they use for brass kits, it will work. Regards, Frank
Thanks, guys. I'm in the info gathering stage. Everything helps. Piano wire sounds good. It is steel and can be soldered using traditional soldering methods. I didn't know you needed a specialized soldering tool to solder brass. I have a Train Cat 2-track girder bridge that I want to solder instead of CA'ing. Can I get more info on what I need to successfully solder it together? Jim
problem with normal soldering is the heat which conducts through the entire wire, no difference wgether you use piano wire, brass or phosphor bonze. The first soldering will work, as soon as the next soldering is made, the preveous will loosen again....
I've had good luck with .3 mm thick copper wire for handrails on some of my cranes. I made a form jig out of aluminum stock to get the tightest bend I could with the copper wire. Hand rails at the end of the carbody and on the cab were made from the copper wire. -Jon
That looks fantastic. Is it z-scale? Is it available? I want to start small by replacing the over-size railings that come with most kits. I have replaced the stirrups on some cars but not the grab rails. I don't want to ruin a car by not doing it right. I thought the replacements would come with a template for drilling the holes. I have been informed that it is not yet possible to leave the grab irons off of 3-D printed models and just print "dimples" where the holes would go. It would be a nice option to have the ability to add your own details without removing molded/printed on details first. The way technology moves these days it may be available next month. I can wish. Jim
Thanks Jim, glad you like it. Sure is Z scale. Rigging is fully functioning too (all be it a pain in the rear to adjust but possible). Hopefully be available sometime this year when I have time to finalize a few issues in the design. On most of my rail car models (non for sale yet on Shapeways) I provide .3 mm handrails and pre drilled holes for the handrails. The handrails are separate from the model and are on a parts tree. The secrete I have found is to put way more hand rails then you need on the parts tree because some of them will come off in production and shipping. So in the end you have choice of adding the handrails that come with the model or using the holes for your own hand rails or filling in the holes and not using any handrails. But no matter what, the added 3D printed rails are stronger then if they came on the model but are still very fragile compared to brass or copper. PS, this is using the silk thread I was telling you about. As you can see, it wraps nice and tight around the small pulleys and has very little fraying. Its really nice stuff.
Thanks, Jon. That is good z news. I kit-bashed a Marklin crane and MTL flatcar into a MOW car. I always wanted to cut the little "crank" off the crane but it is the only way to move the boom up or down. I look forward to getting one of yours when they are available. I still haven't got the thread yet. I will be in Chinatown this afternoon. I will pick some up there. Kimono brand. Several different colors will be useful. I was under the impression it was not possible to print "dimples" where drill holes would go on 3-D prints. Is that much different than printing the holes on the model? Adding BLMA detail parts really does make a difference in the appearance. I've only added stirrups to a Russell snowplow and wish I could replace all the rails easily, they make the model standout. Maybe BLMA or somebody else could provide etched add-ons for 3-D printed items. Just a thought. As a modeler I'd like to thank you and Walt and Stony for the contributions you are making to z scale. For me it is about the details. You guys have added a lot to the party. Thanks, Jim
Thanks for your kind words Jim, much appreciated. As for dimples, with FUD, you can make dimples that are .1mm x .1mm. I make my holes about .35 mm. I have this plow for sale on my Shapeways store but it does not have the wholes or handrails. This version in these pics I have not got around to posting on my store yet. It has added printed handrails with the pre-drilled .35mm holes. The version in my store does not have any pre drilled holes.
