I have an immobile Kato Dash 9-44CW, one of many that I'm checking out after being donated to our museum. This engine is BNSF #4926 if that helps identify its configuration. Superstructure is off, power to LEDs, each lighting separately according to track polarity. (I'm running DC) However, I'm getting no motor rotation, even after waiting for a delay to start moving. (I have another, BNSF #9959, which does move after a short delay). It appears to have DCC installed based on circuit board complexity, All the same, it should operate on DC since the other one does. Motor brush tabs appear to be undamaged. Armature rotates freely. I'm reluctant to remove the DCC board, based on my many years handling PC boards, and creating several smoke events. LOL Where should I start looking? Warranty is not an option as everything was donated in a box with no paperwork. Thanks for any advice. EDIT: BNSF #9959 is an SD70MAC, but the innards look the same. I'm doing a detailed visual comparison for anything obvious.
Find a friend who has a DCC system to check it out. The decoder on this one may have had the DC running option disabled so you will get lights and no motor response. The only other thing I can think of to check is to make sure the motor tabs are touching the motor pads on the decoder underside.
MK, thanks. the motor tabs respond identically on both, so probably not that. However, I was not aware the DC option could be disabled. I have no experience with DCC, expect for my new HO trolleys which have ESU. I've only run them with an Ecos Command Station on a loop to play after receiving them. Though they do run on straight DC. DCC still very much a foreign language. I hope there's a museum member who has N DCC. if not, I may be out of luck. Is an Ecos Command Station generic enough that I might be able to toggle (program) the DC option? The Kato DCC boards have no visible ID, though it may be stenciled underneath. I'm not going to risk smoke testing the board to look.
Isn't your Ecos Command Station a DCC system? I believe it is. So if you know the loco address you can try to run it on your Ecos system. You can also post a good picture of the topside of the decoder and post it here. People can probably ID it for you. Once we know the manufacturer, you can reset the decoder easily with your Ecos. I can tell you what value to write into what CV but I need to know who manufacturer the decoder. By default most, if not all, decoders have DC running ENABLED so resetting the decoder should restore that feature.
OK, I'll take a photo after supper, currently cooking. Thanks so much. Decoder hopefully late model used by Kato.
This is the DCC PCB installed in Kato BNSF #4926. I hope someone can identify the manufacturer and model. Then tell me if I can Program the DC Option with an Ecos ESU Command Station. Finally which CV to address, and with what value. Thanks.
I would GUESS it is a Digitrax decoder, but the way to make certain is to read the manufacture info that is stored on the board (CVs 7 & 8). (It could also be a TCS board) The ECOS is a DCC command station, and can communicate just fine with any N scale decoder. What you will need to do is hook up Outputs to a programming track. They are the connections closest to the power plug on the back of the ECOS. Place this loco on the programming track. Then use the instructions on page 31 of the ECOS manual to read the CVs (and to write them). Or, just write “8” to CV8, which will reset the decoder. You can then try running it on DCC using loco address 3.
What Rick said. Slight correction on decoder reset. Not all manufacturers use CV8 for a reset. Best thing to do is read the value in CV8 and post it here. I can then look it up and tell you who made the decoder and then I can tell you what value to write into what CV to reset it. Here are some common ones: Digitrax, ESU and SoundTraxx Tsunami - write a value of 8 into CV8 to reset NCE, TCS - write a value of 2 into CV30 to reset Lenz - write a value of 33 into CV8 to reset
Cured, and everything is right with the world. It is a Digitrax decoder. I went to Digitrax website to confirm system reset CV, and value. Then set CV 8 = 9 because I didn't want to reset speed values in case they had been defined by the previous owner. They hadn't because the engine took off like a scalded dog. At any rate, I want to thank you guys for all your help. I didn't realize I had all the tools at my finger tips, just didn't know how to use them.
DCC is kinda fun. Though I doubt if I could convert my locos to DCC because they're probably too small. For instance the MP American and Mogul are tiny. The IM FTs might be convertible, but a pain for my eyes. Oh well, I'll just work with the DCC trolleys when I get the wire strung. Thanks again.
Hank, All those locos you mention can be converted to DCC, especially with the “nano” decoders now available from ESU and Zimo. I have put sound into a number IM F units.
Rick, it's tempting, especially since I already have the ECOS Command Station. Didn't realize that would be the major cost when I bought it for the trolleys. Not sure my layout would be compatible. I have zero blocks. Track gapped as necessary to prevent shorts, etc. Power fed into turnout points, routed by Peco turnouts. (Love that toggle spring!) OK, I'm a DC Dinosaur and wanted lazy man's control, but after 70 years of blocks, control panels, and wiring all over hellangone, thought I'd try for the most simple. The dispatcher, my right index finger, merely sets up track routing, and Begorra, it worked. (If at first you DO succeed, try to hide your astonishment!) That said, not sure if that would be compatible with DCC. Your opinion please?
DCC wiring is MUCH simpler than DC. Keep the polarity correct around the circuit and all is good. Once you start getting fancy (auto reversing, power districts, signals, etc), well then you have to think. My bet is you could disconnect your DC throttle, hook up the track Outputs of the Ecos, and be running that Dash 9 in minutes. (Just remember, first one is free)
