Hi, All I was attempting to retro fit a module with Marklin lights (601225) and realized it is almost impossible to do. The lead from the light is only 3" long and must be very precisely clipped into a tiny circuit board. The lead is copper "tape" with 2 contact points. I can't see how it can be lengthened by soldering magnet wire to it. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jim
Are you talking about the very fine leads from the light mast itself? ... interesting. Do they need to plug into that plastic harness (see below). I have not hooked up one of these ...
Hi, Frank. Yes. Those are the culprits. The clip needs to be attached from underneath, with less than 2" of wire to work with. The 2 contact points must make precise contact with the ones in the clip. I have used these on another module but before scenery, etc...was added. They do not seem to be user-friendly especially with retro-fitting. You also must be mindful of the thickness of sub roadbed. There is not much play. Jim
Hi, All I just heard from Mike at IronPenguinElectronics. I had sent him a Marklin 601225 to tinker with. The good news is he was able to dismantle it and replace the existing wire with magnet wire. He extended the lead to about 9". The bad news is it is too labor intensive to retrofit individual ones. More good news, though, he thinks he would be able to produce 3-D shades and provide instructions to assemble one myself. He will locate some small diameter brass tubing to try making them. I will keep you posted with his progress. Kit street lights with pico LED's might be possible. Jim
Might as well jump right in... here's the completed reworked light. Here its lighted, warm white pico. Poor pic of 3D printed shades compared to original. New ones just a little bit larger. Jim started this thread seeking way to extend the very short original wires. It's fairly easy, but you're giving up some functionality of the original system. Any small gauge wire can be soldered directly to the two pads on the original green strip and then soldered to the weird looking "pads" under the white clip on the power board. What you're giving up is the plug in capability - plus you'll have to solder the small wire to the board after it's mounted under the layout. That can be easy or hard. LOL Also - you can connect the Marklin board to any 12v DC power supply. You don't have to use their proprietary system.
Just a quick update on this project. The brass tubing I ordered is virtually identical to the original Marklin. Next step is to figure out a repeatable method that others can do. The most difficult part is going to be physically threading the wires down the tube. One wire is easy. Two, not so much since I'd really like to use at least one wire of the Pico intact to minimize soldering (and insulating) tiny wires. Making a kit is doable. I just need to find the right methodology that doesn't require heroic soldering and assembly.
Thanks for the update, Mike. Let us know how you are progressing. I will certainly be looking forward to getting some. Jim
