Curved Turnout help

cocotrain2 Aug 4, 2017

  1. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    I never had a need for a curved turnout intill now. What are the best ones' I use Atlas custom line no6 mostly' My only choice is Peco And Walthers shenohara ' Any info on using these' I use code 100 and the turn is 30in radius.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2017
  2. Ironhorseman

    Ironhorseman Staff Member

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    I can't give you any help with your question because I hand-lay my own turnouts. But I'm sure there's someone who will offer you their opinion(s). Good luck. :)
     
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  3. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    I've had both Atlas straight and Shinohara curved switches for years, and find the Shinoharas more durable and reliable. I don't have personal experience with Peco products, but have never heard anything bad about them.
     
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  4. RGW

    RGW TrainBoard Supporter

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  5. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks guys' The Shinohara is $50 shipped' Plus its code 83 ' I need 100. I seen them for $28 from some of the large train outlets. Can one use the Caboose hand throws with them like the Atlas. I assume one can. Thanks
     
  6. RGW

    RGW TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes
     
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  7. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Well I got a Shinohara no 6 curve turnout code 100 and it wont work. It is not DCC friendly' the frog is electrified not insulated. So it shorts out. What Peco curve TO is equal radius wise as the no6 Shinohara' about 28in radius I think. Shinohara makes a code 83 DCC friendly TO but not in code 100. Can one use code 83 TO with code 100 track. Thanks for help.
     
  8. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    Joining codes 83 and 100 makes a bump which could derail you, due to the different rail heights. Using special joiners or soldering the rail joints just right can fix that.
     
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  9. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    I wanted to point out the switches you've been talking about Peco, Shenohara and Walthers are good. Micro
    Engineering I believe has a few curved switches. They will serve you well.

    Although not particularly on subject. The real railroads used these switches when room for a straight switch just didn't exist. Dayton, Ohio and the bridge over the Miami River is a good example. I don't think it's survived to today but at one time it served a spur track that went to the Catholic Church and School. To deliver coal to the steam plant for heat.

    Just my three cents for now. It cost more these days.
     
  10. RGW

    RGW TrainBoard Supporter

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    You can cut gaps in the Shinohara behind the frog and rewire and it will work, did on the RGW. I'll get a picture for you in a bit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2017
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  11. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Well My local HS is taking the Shinohara back and I am getting the Peco ST244 Insulated frog switch, I do not want to cut it, Thanks
     
  12. RGW

    RGW TrainBoard Supporter

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    No problem, but it's easy.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for your help' What has to be rewired though'
     
  14. RGW

    RGW TrainBoard Supporter

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    We typically run feeders to the track immediately behind the frog, but if you have quality track joints you might actually get away with doing nothing.
     
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  15. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the pic.
     
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  16. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    By the way it seems like one could just put insulated joiners on those 2 rails leading away instead of cutting the rails behind the frog like you did. Would that work. Thanks
     
  17. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes, that will work and is actually better for the switch. Keeps the integrity of the switch in place as in doesn't weaken it.

    Wiring in? A lot of guys and gals are wiring in a reversing DPDT to the frog. If the switch is
    power routed it most likely isn't necessary.

    Soldering in wires in my hands or inexperienced hands is never a good idea. I don't recommend it. Hats off to the guys who can.

    I prefer to work with Peco's Electro Frog. No dead spots.

    Your experience here will teach you what you need to know for the future.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017
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  18. cocotrain2

    cocotrain2 TrainBoard Member

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    Well the insulated joiners placed behind the frog works great' No problems. I do not why they don't tell you that. So simple' This way the frog stays powered to ever which way you turn the switch and no short. Straight though 'the frog is black or negative' switch to the turnout it becomes positive' Now this is according to which side of the tracks you wire pos or negative. On my shelf walk around the rail towards the wall is positive or red and the rail closest to me is black or negative all way around.
     

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