Curved Turnout help

I never had a need for a curved turnout intill now. What are the best ones' I use Atlas custom line no6 mostly' My only choice is Peco And Walthers shenohara ' Any info on using these' I use code 100 and the turn is 30in radius.

 

I've had both Atlas straight and Shinohara curved switches for years, and find the Shinoharas more durable and reliable. I don't have personal experience with Peco products, but have never heard anything bad about them.

 

Try the Shinohara 7.5, it's a 32/28 but if you cut the ties between the two sets of rails back about 7 ties, you can easily manipulate the curve.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walthers-Sh...596667&hash=item238a381e05:g:GDAAAOSw2n5ZfQzf

 

Thanks guys' The Shinohara is $50 shipped' Plus its code 83 ' I need 100. I seen them for $28 from some of the large train outlets. Can one use the Caboose hand throws with them like the Atlas. I assume one can. Thanks

 

Yes

 

Well I got a Shinohara no 6 curve turnout code 100 and it wont work. It is not DCC friendly' the frog is electrified not insulated. So it shorts out. What Peco curve TO is equal radius wise as the no6 Shinohara' about 28in radius I think. Shinohara makes a code 83 DCC friendly TO but not in code 100. Can one use code 83 TO with code 100 track. Thanks for help.

 

Joining codes 83 and 100 makes a bump which could derail you, due to the different rail heights. Using special joiners or soldering the rail joints just right can fix that.

 

I wanted to point out the switches you've been talking about Peco, Shenohara and Walthers are good. Micro
Engineering I believe has a few curved switches. They will serve you well.

Although not particularly on subject. The real railroads used these switches when room for a straight switch just didn't exist. Dayton, Ohio and the bridge over the Miami River is a good example. I don't think it's survived to today but at one time it served a spur track that went to the Catholic Church and School. To deliver coal to the steam plant for heat.

Just my three cents for now. It cost more these days.

 

You can cut gaps in the Shinohara behind the frog and rewire and it will work, did on the RGW. I'll get a picture for you in a bit.

 

Well My local HS is taking the Shinohara back and I am getting the Peco ST244 Insulated frog switch, I do not want to cut it, Thanks

 

No problem, but it's easy.

 

Thanks for your help' What has to be rewired though'

 

We typically run feeders to the track immediately behind the frog, but if you have quality track joints you might actually get away with doing nothing.

 

Thanks for the pic.

 

By the way it seems like one could just put insulated joiners on those 2 rails leading away instead of cutting the rails behind the frog like you did. Would that work. Thanks

 

Yes, that will work and is actually better for the switch. Keeps the integrity of the switch in place as in doesn't weaken it.

Wiring in? A lot of guys and gals are wiring in a reversing DPDT to the frog. If the switch is
power routed it most likely isn't necessary.

Soldering in wires in my hands or inexperienced hands is never a good idea. I don't recommend it. Hats off to the guys who can.

I prefer to work with Peco's Electro Frog. No dead spots.

Your experience here will teach you what you need to know for the future.

 

Well the insulated joiners placed behind the frog works great' No problems. I do not why they don't tell you that. So simple' This way the frog stays powered to ever which way you turn the switch and no short. Straight though 'the frog is black or negative' switch to the turnout it becomes positive' Now this is according to which side of the tracks you wire pos or negative. On my shelf walk around the rail towards the wall is positive or red and the rail closest to me is black or negative all way around.