Sep 1, 2017
Okay. Took off half the red paint and put blue on. Coke on the left and Pepsi on the right.
Round the corners of the switches and they can be painted as cans of coke and pepsi.
Got the signs on the machines. Also working on an interior light for the building.
I like using the LED light strips, so I cut off a section and soldered on some leads. I will stick the strip to the bottom of the "rafter" on the ceiling of the building. I will run this 12v light at 9v because that is what all the lights will run off of. Softer light, not so harsh.
It's looking good David!
Problem. Well, small problem. The building I was going to put in the front left corner with the soda machine inside won't fit there. So since I had the gas station kit and gas stations usually have soda machines in front... I notched the front of the building (bottom left in picture) and I will bury the machine so just a little shows out front. So it will look even better! Painted the parts and will begin assembly. Pictures (of course) will follow.
Working on the outside ceiling. This gas station is one of those old type with a portico (or porch type covering) on the front (roof and ceiling). It will hang on the front. Now the interesting thing is that the portico has a ceiling with a fake light in it. Not anymore! Glued and soldered magnet wire leads (red +, green -) to a LED over the hole I cut out. I will drill a hole into the building and run the wires inside. Inside will be two more LEDs.
Every building will be lit. Street lights too. I also have cars with all the lights.
Portico almost attached.
Got the ceiling in on the portico. Used some "spacers" to give space for the wiring. Ran the wires through a hole drilled in the building where they will connect to two more LEDs in the ceiling of the building.
Pretty well finished this one project. Two lights inside and one on the portico.
Next I need to get the wiring going on the bottom of the layout. I already have the 12v 3600 mah battery, 12v to 9v inverter, a tiny little digital voltmeter and the Medved throttle which will be on a tether so it can be stored underneath. The DC and city lights will run on 9v. 12v for DCC. Switches so that only DC or DCC is supplied to the track.
I will add ballast to the sides of the Rokuhan track to make it look better.
Good thing I'm now retired so I have the time to work on this.
OH yes. I am planning on having a flagpole as a switch to electrically throw the turnouts! Pull up for straight through, push down to throw.
Started the backdrop which also helps to cover up the hinge and the slots for the lid support. This will be a hillside in the back.
Also working on the bottom of the layout. Attached the 12v battery pack with Velcro. Glued down another barrier strip.
Also working on installing the Medved controller in a control box with a cable. The control box will be stored under the layout.
Working on the other side of the backdrop. Came up with the idea of mounting the digital voltmeter in the side with a push button switch next to it. While running trains (DC or DCC), you can check the voltage of the battery pack.
Kind of busy this morning with another hobby, but I don't want to "shoot" my mouth off here.
Got some more wiring run underneath the layout. I now have a plug on the end of the cable from the Medved controller and a plug on the board to connect it. Put in a kill switch to turn off the DC power. My question is: If the DCC is hooked up and the DC switch is off, will the DCC power coming into the back of the Medved controller cause an issue? I could put in a double switch which could turn off the 9v and one side of the track power to the Medved controller. Any ideas?
Also the black (inside track) will be a common rail with the red wire (outside rail) running from the control switches in the soda machine to each block of track (tracks 1,2 and 3). When running DCC, all the switches will be on to all track sections. But I am having fun!
It would be best to use a switch. Since DCC is alternating current, would be pretty hard to block it from entering the controller. Now, the PIV of the output transistor should easily be higher than the DCC voltage, but without knowing the circuitry, the DCC voltage might get in. Be safe.
Also, the other benefit is then you make it IMPOSSIBLE to power the layout from both DC and DCC at the same time! (don't laugh, it has been done often!)
I want to use the 60264 Noch Turnout Control Board to control the switches but the instructions are pretty lame. I have momentary switches to use, but all I get is info on reed switch activation.
Got the back hillside panel installed. Wired up the track input to a switch with center off, so that the track can only get power from the DC or the DCC power side. Next is another switch to turn on power to either DC or DCC or off.