Most of my switches if not all are non dcc should I just sell the dc switches and go with dcc which could get pricey ? Well opened my April MRR and there it is how to dcc switches Problem solved
It appears that I am not knowing what I am doing, I have tested the track and it does switch the power correctly with no shorts. After looking at the prices of new switches they are not in my budget for the foreseeable future. I work at this a bit here and there but when you have to live on SSI life gets tough.
Too many people don't comprehend what a fixed low income can do. Being knocked out of the work force isn't much fun.
Retirement is really boring nothing worth getting out of bed for and one must learn discipline shopping. Back to the subject, I am using a whole bunch of used track both steel and brass and my switches are #4's and several numbers above 4. I have an Atlas ladder track and a Japan maid 3 way and also a few wye's. I got out my VOM and using the continuity section I was able to test the frogs. I forgot to mention my rolling stock which is a Bachman DCC equipped loco along with a DCC switcher a conglomerate of cars etc.. I am ready to solder the main line and I am not to keen on doing this especially if I have to take it apart.
OK , myself, I have never worried about weather or not my switches were DCC ready or not . In HO scale I used Atlas , Walthers ( Shinohara) and Micro Engineering , and never had any problems using them with DCC . I think it depends mostly on the switch and the wheelsets in weather or not you will have a shorting problem . Always check the gauge of the wheels and the turnout and you shouldn't have any problems . In N scale all I use are Unitrack turnouts and I have never had any problems with them .
