I'm using toggle switches (DPDT Momentary on-off-on) to throw 10 Kato #6 turnouts. I picked up a 12V DC output plug that I snipped off the end and use it to run the switches. Question I have, what can I connect the DC power wires to that will then distribute the power to each of my toggle switches? I was thinking it was a terminal strip, but that doesn't seem right once I look at it. I'll need to connect a red and black wire from each toggle switch to the DC power. Thanks, Dave
I've used terminal strips. One for black (common), one for red (positive). Jumper all one side, connect power one end. Then each terminal on the opposite side it the power polarity you need. Buy a lot of fork (open) terminal ends. I prefer solder type over crimp.
Do you need DPDT or will SPDT do? There's the http://shop.atlasrr.com/p-20-switch-control-box.aspx SPDT momentary contact, with the added feature over your toggle switches that the position of the slide shows which way the switch is set. But, to your question of gang-wiring, these come with flat double-spade connectors to hook any number of them in a string.
Why? Yeah, they work...so does bare wire touching bolts. You put 10 of these in a row, you're at least 18". MOST folks who have been model railroaders for a while want something smaller and neater, like toggles in, oh, a control panel exactly in the diagram where they are on he layout. You can even orient toggles for the direction of the train or the points. Those Atlas units, if internally anything like the old ones (and I probably still have some old ones in a box) are certainly not trouble-free. How many old Atlas snap-switch machines have you seen melted? Ever wonder how that happens? The control units get dirty and sticky, the button may not pop back up...and smoke the machine. But, if one is able to only deal with plug-and-pray, those are the way to go. I use toggles, spring loaded....and my 0 stuff uses Acme. Beep-Beep. Dave
Thanks for the reply on the atlas stuff but I'm going with toggles and eventually decoders. So to get this straight... Connect one of the plug wires (common wire lets say) to the end of the terminal strip and that strip is only used for the common wire? Then another strip for the positive wire, used only for positive wires? Does it matter which side is jumpered?
Doesn't matter which side is jumpered. I have had some terminal blocks over the years with stamped metal shorting bar assemblies that went down one side..removeable. You can double and triple up fork terminals on each screw when you start adding switch machines, too. One terminal is positive, one common. Most switch machines will work fine on AC, too. That's why old power packs had the accessory terminals on the back....14-16VAC. Dave
Is there a reason this type of terminal strip couldn't be used? Seems as though it would save the trouble of having to wire jumpers...
Nope, it'll work fine. I had surmised since you mentioned terminal strips that you had some...I just told you how to wire them. You'll need two. One for each leg of polarity.
You might give this tutorial by Fifer a look see... http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_make_kato_turnout_contr.html Mike also has some other great "how to's" here >>> http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_pages.html
