Need a bit of guidance

New guy here. I built my table, designed a starter plan, got parts and pieces as per the software list. Now not sure how to proceed N-scale. I have read a ton on here and found lots of helpful stuff but still a little fuzzy on a few things. Do I put the track directly on the wood base or Styrofoam or a thin cork base? How does the track get fastened down in any of those cases. The left half of the layout is going to be a mountain scene inner loop elevated probably 2" on middle straight being the highest. I also bought today a whole bunch of flex track today thinking fewer joints less problems? I have read you should solder the joints together on the flex. If this whole post seems a jumbled mess of info and questions then you know how I feel.
Plan long side 6' left side 4' and right side 2'

Thanks chris
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For starters track directly on plywood, or any wood product is going to be noisy. Next trying to get the ballasted right of way will not happen that way. Except for some overgrown sidings the mainlines are always raised above the ground level. A thin layer of foam will allow you to have some shallow ditches and depressions that can be carved into it. Foam or cork roadbed gives the raised mainline and most all of it has a beveled side that gives the nice sloped effect of a well ballasted line. More foam blocks and layers can be glued over the foam for hills and mountains. For adhesives don't use any petroleum or solvent based glue as it will eat and dissolve the foam.

Almost all brands of track have small holes at regular spacing in the ties. These are for the use of small track nails to help hold the track in place. A lot of folks use an adhesive to glue the track down. The track nails can hold curved pieces like flex track in place while the glue dries or can be used to supplement the glue. When using track nails do not drive them in so that the ties are bowed downward as this will mess with the track gauge and result in derailments. I don't use glue to secure turnouts instead use easy to remove track nails so that if the turnout needs to be replaced or repaired it can more easily be removed.


That is my starter 101 course and others will add more that will help.

 

Hmmmmmmmmm...a rise of 2 inches in approx 5 feet to that middle straight on the left would give you approx a 4 percent grade...yikes. Not bad if a logging layout with a few cars. Anything more with more train or cars and you could be in trouble.

 

Thanks
I will lay some foam on the table then put down a cork base for track and then the track. Correct
Is there special tiny nail for track or is there an acceptable sub at a hardware store?
Not for sure how to do the ballasting or if actually needed sounds like more research today while I'm at work.
The back corner is accessible by reach and also table has wheels I can move it out and go behind if needed. The 2" rise was just a number I thought looked good but a 1" rise should be plenty for what I want to do and be an easier slope for the engines to climb.
Thanks chris

 

The track nails in question can be substituted for with what are called wire nails. The smaller and shorter the length the better. Pushed through the cork and foam they don't really need to reach the plywood thus they can be short and easy to push through the hole in the track. I have found that with some track brand the holes are not open enough to even take the track nails and often a small drill bit in a pin vise is needed to ream them open.

 

As to the cork track bed. I have called every hobby shop within 2hrs drive to find none. I did find sheets of 1/8" thick cork at hobby lobby that can that be cut into strips and used. I cut a strip about 1 1/4" wide and it seems to follow curves pretty well. Is this OK to use?

Thanks Chris

 

Maybe for your cork you need to specify the brand name which would be Midwest Products cork roadbed. If you can't find it in N-scale, you can use HO cork, but only one side of it. You won't get sloped sides or a nice line down the middle to lay your track to, but it works just fine. I'd suggest being patient and ordering the N-scale Midwest cork either from your LHS or online. It is hardly an esoteric, difficult to find product.

As to laying track. You don't need to nail it down. Simple. I use Micro Engineering flex and it never gets nailed down. I glue it with several different glues, which include runny CA and accelerator, Aileens Tacky Glue, or a thin coat of gray caulk on top of the cork.

If you are using floppy Atlas flextrack, then you can keep it in place while the glue cures/dries by using push pins. After the glue has set up, remove the push pins, which will easily penetrate both the cork and Styrofoam scenery base.

When you ballast your track, that's when it's really socked down. But, nails and pushpins really aren't needed after your track is glued to your cork roadbed.

Here's a little advice about your cork roadbed, no matter what you decide to use. NEVER ASSUME IT'S FLAT....NEVER. That means that you use a hard sanding block (you can make one out of scrap lumber) between 6 and 8 inches long, which you've stapled 220 grit sandpaper to, and sand your cork lightly until the bumps are out of it, especially at the joints.

After you're sure your cork is smooth, THEN lay your track.

Before you ballast, there a few things you need to do. (1) Get ALL of your electrical feeders soldered to your track. Make sure each piece of rail has its own, separate feeder...NEVER assume that a rail joiner is sufficient to be electrically reliable. Use them for mechanical alignment only...NEVER use them to carry electricity. (2) Get all of your turnout machines installed and working (3) TEST TEST TEST to make sure there are zero electrical problems... and by "TEST", I mean run trains on it. After you're sure (from running trains) that everything is electrically perfect...and I do mean perfect, get all your missing ties replaced, all your misaligned joints re-aligned, all your globby solder joints cleaned up...then test everything again. After you're satisfied that everything is both mechanically and electrically perfect as well as cosmetically okay as you want, then it's time to paint your track.

One thing that a lot of newbies do is to use acid flux for their solder joints. NEVER NEVER use acid flux for any solder joint except when you're soldering copper pipe for your new toilet. Model solder joints achieved with acid flux will disintegrate after about a year to maybe two years. I speak from experience here. Plumber's Honey is for copper pipes, not delicate, inaccessible electrical joints. Use a 30 to 40 watt soldering iron with a clean and tinned wedge tip...not a pistol gripped soldering gun or tiny SMD iron. You need just enough heat to get your rails heated up quick, get your solder melted, then get off...right now. That way, you won't be melting ties and your solder joints will be secure and last a long time.

Before you ballast, paint your track. I use plain old Krylon camo black ultra flat as a base coat, covering any Styrofoam that's near the track with old newspapers taped together. The Krylon will melt Styrofoam, but you should be giving your track a light coat...just enough to cover the sides of the rails and tops and edges of the ties. Make sure you get the Krylon off the tops of the rails before it cures hard....which means no longer than 20 minutes after you have sprayed it. I use a clean cotton rag that's damp with plain old paint thinner (not soaking wet with it) and swipe the tops of the rails a couple of times...let the thinner evaporate, then hit it with a Bright Boy.

Check for any bare spots and touch them up with the spray can...then remove paint from the tops of the rails again. After you're satisfied, you can then paint the ties by spraying the lightly from directly above with either your airbrush or an appropriate brown color from a Krylon can. Clean the tops of the rails again, then test test test.

Pick a few individual ties out with slightly different tones and shades of brown with a small (not tiny) brush.

Now, your track is ready to ballast.

Before you ballast from a scenery standpoint, it's often easier to at least paint the Styrofoam scenery base near the track with an appropriate Latex-based flat paint.

From a scenery-layering aspect, the ballast should be the last layer you apply, but practically, with trees, bushes, telegraph poles and tunnels getting in the way, ballasting is usually done right after you've got your scenery base shaped, but before it's scenicked.

Make sure you ask questions about ballasting because there are several ways to do it, each one have it's merits and demerits. It'll be up to you to decide how to do it for yourself and what your modeling philosophy is, but I would suggest one thing for certain, use real rock ballast from Highball, Arizona Rock & Mineral Company or a few others. Woodland Scenics ballast isn't the best and can be difficult for novices and experts alike.

'Nuff said for tonight!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

 

I ordered a couple boxes of this should be here Friday so until then I'll get my foam on the table and get more Planning done. I'm sure I'll have more questions today while I have time to think at work.


Thanks Chris

 

I used the foam trackbed on my first layout. It worked fine. Because its foam...be sure you dont 'stretch' it when laying it down. Ballast worked fine over it. Again...since its soft foam...if you lean on the track anywhere after ballasting...the foam will give and your ballast will crack. Cracks are easily fixed with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. The same 50/50 solution you would use to hold the ballast down the first time.

 

What Bob Gilmore sez! There's a lot of wisdom and experience in that writeup (although I paint and weather differently). We should all print it and tape it to our benchwork to avoid the temptation to take shortcuts

Otto K.

 

Thanks a lot guys for all the help I have my foam on the table and track plan laid out just waiting for the trackbed. How would you go about raising the track bed grade I think an 1 1/2" will be plenty for the end. I was thinking of cutting the risers out of the pink foam.

Thanks Chris

 

Robert3985 hit the nail on the head! I have copy & pasted that to my files to keep & remind me later.

As far as the inclines & risers, I started out making my own. They worked pretty well, but because of my limited shop tools (& slill level), they had small dips & low spots. Not very big, but enough it bothered me. Plus, the grade was 4+%! I had used 2"x2" foam, 2' long, and cut them diagonally. I should have used 1" foam, 2' long! That's what I get for being in a hurry. By the time I cleaned up the mess, and got going on the layout, I had spent the better part of an hour per piece.



I found it was more reliable to just go & buy the WS (Woodland Scenics). For the time spent, marking them up, cutting them and wasting material, $20.00 wasn't a bad invesment. Since I mentioned WS, I also found a video by them, showing how to use their Layout System. It was about an hour long, but it did give me some interesting ideas for my next layout. You can find it here---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRQC12X7RIA

As you can see, I only used the inclines. They make a better grade, and visually, look better IMO.



Good luck in your build, and enjoy the hobby!

Later,

P.S. - I am not pushing any of WS's products, I found the video interesting. The video just happens to be made by WS.

 

That video has lots of good info on it. I wish I had all the materials he did.
I made my own risers and incline I think will work just fine. I hope



Thanks Chris

 

How do u attach track to trackbed before ballasting. Would regular white glue work? Or should I just pin it till I'm ready to ballast.

Thanks Chris