I try and use my chopstick rail cleaner (wood) most times ..But I have used an abbrasive many times for really difficult stall out areas..And we all know the tiny scratches it leaves..Anyone know if rail can be re-polished in place to have that sheen again ? I'm guessing ,no ...One odd thing though..Maybe scratches are helpful on steepish grades. all in all, I don't believe the scratches hold that much more dirt and gunk that more stall outs occur..I think it's more a visual mess up..comparing it to the 1:1 scale...
Yes, you can. Take a good quality stainless washer about 1" or more in diameter and scrub the railhead lightly back and forth. I would use the rounded side, the 'top' of the washer because the lower sharp edges will probably snag on something and there goes some time and expense. However, if you are going to bother with that, why not do the full gleam method. 600 grit paper followed by 1000 grit, followed by the washer, and then polish the result with Mother's Mag Wheel Cleaner or something like it, Blue Magic or whatever. Those who have taken up this substantial task have been very enthusiastic about the results which seem to last and last.
I am with you on suggesting the gleam method, but don't skip the polish if even lightly. Funny you mention the washer to burnish the rail head as people look at me like I am crazy when I pull one out and go to town. I am an N scale guy, currently, and the washer step finds snags from rough joints and/or plain old badly aligned joints.
Are you guys saying 'washer' as in a washer on a carriage bolt ? A metal washer ? Which type with a "round side" do you refer to ? I don't savvy how a washer rubs railhead. How is it held down on rail ?..Any pics ?
Buy a stainless steel washer of the kind that would go under a lag bolt. It should be somewhat wider than the gauge of the track system you are using. Most steel washers have a smooth slightly rounded side, or the edges are that form the large circumference, and the other side's circumference is sharp. You want the 'soft' side down, and yes, you rub it back and forth over the rails. Many times, keeping the washer centered and under control at all times. It doesn't need more than a kg of pressure. You are not taking wax off a car, so you are not buffing the rails, but getting them clean and smoother.
The burnishing with a washer is much the same as used in a machine shop. What you are doing is pressing the ridges down into the valleys. This also does some work hardening. Don't apply too much pressure as it will make the surface brittle and prone to cracking. Using less pressure and going over the rail heads several times will give the best results
OK, but what I don't get is if your are dragging a typical washer, the curvature riding between rail heads, smooth side first, how does this polish the top of the rail head ? I can picture it shining the inside upper rim/corner of head. But how does the top get shined with this method ? Making sure we're talking about the same thing, I mean getting abrasive scratches off top/ horizontal railhead, not inside corners..I would think the circumference (side)of the washer would only touch upper inner edges of rail...
I have never tried this, but from I'm reading - you want the washer wider than the two tracks are wide....therefore yes the washer would be rubbing the very top of the rails. Am I right, guys? (Must buy large washer!)
yes, Jerry...the key is the size of the washer...being twice the width would work well...the curved edge side down as to keep it from getting caught up on points, frogs, etc.....and yes the size would then cause the flat part of washer to ride on the top of the rail...providing abrasion across the whole top, not just the inner rim of rail...respectfully, Gary L Lake Dillensnyder...........*again MSIE v.10 not allowing returns after line of text thus the continuing in paragraph format
Very very sorry, but, I still don't see how a curved washer circumference contacts a flat surface..Might you mean washer lays on its large side and is somehow dragged along rail top ? If I could draw a picture of an end view of this, even if washer were say, one foot diameter, its edge would still not be on top of rail. It would be craddling the inside ridges..A flat/square object rides on top of track (Like a brite boy). How does curved washer ? What am I missing here ?
Mark, a washer has a flat sharp-edged side and a side with rounded 'shoulders'. Does that work for you? And, in order not to snag anything, you should use the rounded side down on the rails.
I think Mark is picturing it as; holding the washer between thumb/forefinger, and using the outer edge as the contact surface.. instead of letting the washer sit flat, atop the rails, and the user pushing it along, with downward pressure, as it "rides" atop the rails..?
My understanding is that washers are made by punching out the inner and outer circumference with a punch through a flat sheet of stock metal. A punch pushes metal from the top of the sheet, which will have the rounded edge, and a sharp edge as the punch exits the sheet stock. The washer's top surface is used face down on the rail. Amazing how such a simple thing requires so many words.
Guys, last night it dawned on me what you are suggesting..You mean washer is flat down on rails ! I kept picturing you meaning the thin edge of it, it standing vertical !! Doh ! Of course ! Face down, rounded edge slides along on rail head ,using my left big toe to push it, correct ? !!! ...10-4 !! Doh ! While on the subject ,would you go as far as doing this on a regular basis to clean rails, too ?
Of course, after reading this thread, I went digging through my "nut-n-bolts" looking for a large, stainless steel washer, but ended up finding something even better... A nice, stainless, "L" bracket.. same "stamped" makeup of the washer (has a rounded and flat side), but easy to use and handle
Same here ! I went digging and check this: The brass striker for a door lock..Schlage (or whatever it is). it's flat,..has that curved side and a section 90% from rest to grab onto..But, not sure if size and brass plating is good idea..I'll go buy that large washer..Nice if was a way to add a handle to it..Maybe a wood dowel with 45% slanted end, screwed on, screw head circumference smaller than rail gauge..Nah, this won't fly with switches..point rails/frogs,... grade crossings...
Just in case anyone is still having trouble visualizing how a washer is used for burnishing, here's a photo of a washer I use for this purpose on my N-scale layout. I put my finger on the hole and push the washer along the railheads. Once the rails have been burnished, I can't imagine that it needs to be done again for a long time. I suppose if there are reasons why the rail heads might become scratched or pitted, then you would want to repeat the polishing and burnishing. Please excuse the mess; I've been scenicking with carved foam on this part of the layout, and I obviously need to vacuum! - Jeff
No. The idea, is you don't have to clean therails, except with the occasional track wiper for dusting. A Centerline car or one of those things that clips to the inside axle of a boxcar and drags along.
