I was getting ready to post some info in a thread re: under-table turnout machines.. and while taking pics, I thought it was a good time for an update: Recap.. 30X16 room (latest plan included in album), around the walls, point-to-point operations (JMRI), with a through-the-stairs track for continuous running. Theme: C&O branch-line, with a HJRC interchange.. 330 feet of track; 30 turnouts (#8 main and sidings.. #6 spurs.. 30" min radius) http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/album.php?do=editpictures&albumid=1744 Today, I'll finish up all the ballasting, save the yards (still trying to come up with a strategy for them lol), and get back to ground cover, etc..
Now that sounds like it will be a very nice layout. And a large one. Keep us posted on progress....please Jim
I'm going to do a better job posintg updates... As I look back, I realize how time flies.. I started this project nearly 5 years ago ! My very first post here (May 2009), was some early construction... http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?109464-My-budding-empire-(an-intro-too)&highlight Then 3 years lapsed before this update (Jan 2012) http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/album.php?albumid=557 My next, update-worthy goal, is to get ballast down on the near 30-foot-long "yard".. 4 tracks wide for 9 of those 30 feet.. Even fine ballast is a bit chunky for a yard, so I've been experimenting with a mix of, Woodland Scenics, fine, brown ballast, and brown sanded grout.. It's very dusty, and difficult to "wet", so I put it down as a watered slurry, and then glue it (50/50 white glue / water)... sample attached.. The biggest problem, is that it likes to float-n-climb up the rails as it dries.. I'll keep experimenting, and share anything that works well..
When I mix the ballast/grout slurry, I use water with a drop of dish soap.. so it's "wet" as I lay it. "Float", is probably not as accuarate as, "climb"... I spread it carefully, and run a fine-blade screwdriver along the inside of the rails. The climbing happens after the glue-mix is applied and dries.. it's gotta be a grout/sand thing; as I've not had this problem with just ballast.. which I apply more traditionally.. spread/apply dry.. then wet.. then glue..
It is at the "then wet" stage where I am asking about a wetting agent. This is where you break the surface tension with such as a little denatured alcohol. Then apply whatever mixture of a bonding substance is desired.
Yes.. my agent is water/dish-soap ... never had a problem using just ballast.. But my experimentation using a mixture of ballast/grout, not only resists the "wetting", it's so dusty that using it dry (especially stirring in the ballast) makes a terrible mess.. lol .. so I pre-wet it and apply it as a slurry.. then apply the gluing mixture.. soaks in nicely, just like traditional ballast, but when I return after drying.. it's like the grout/sand creep their way up the rails... quite an effort to clear it. Are you suggesting that a denatured-alcohol application after spreading the already wet slurry, but before gluing will reduce the rail-clogging ? If so, I'll definately try it.. because this mixture makes a prettty realistic, yard ballast, plus goes down much more manageably/quicker than dry ballast..
No. You apply ballast dry. Spread it into place. Then you apply the wetting agent, (denatured alchohol- I use an eye dropper, or "wet water" such as using dish soap- gently misted on), immediately while still damp, you apply the bonding material. The wetting agent has broken the surface tension, so the adhesive flows right in. I use Matte Medium from Scenic Express. Much faster, simpler, quicker drying, stronger. Mike Fifer has done some nice video on ballasting. Should be on YouTube and linked dfrom the Fifer Hobby web site. You can also search up "The Trackside Modeler" video series by Dave Frary, on BlipTV.
I know.. and that's how I apply "normal" ballast.. works great.. .. my problem is with this ballast/grout mixture..
