I'm considering building around the Wall bench-work. I'll have about a 7' by 9' by 8' wall space to use. 26" wide and 30" wide in some spots. I'm looking to have a double track main-line. What is the consensus of the best way to mount the bench-work to the wall? Using the studs in the wall to attach Large 'L' type metal brackets or build wood supports, for the plywood and foam base. Or some other method? Maybe references to some books. I would like to have the under table area clear for working on wiring, other under table stuff, like maybe some stageing tracks. Any suggestions or ideas are welcome. Thanks See ya Ron
LOL! Consensus among model railroaders? Riiiiiiight... Seriously, if you can get by with cheap pre-made metal brackets, why would you want to put the time and $$$ into building wood things? If you need wooden supports due to weight or whatever, or you enjoy woodworking, that's a different story.
Because cheap metal brackets often do not provide the stability required for a layout. One bump with your elbow and things will go flying. Granted, there is no one "right way" or "best way," but there are plenty of "not so good" ways. For myself, I've used heavy-duty metal support brackets attached to the studs, with 1x2 stringers attached to the brackets to support a 2-inch foam layout base. No need for plywood, as long as the foam is adequately supported by stringers. This makes it much easier to do wiring and other under-the-table work.
Lots of different ways have their own merits. I prefer L-girder and joist construction because of its flexibility, ease of construction, and how solid it is. Attached is a photo of my peninsula - along the walls one L-girder would be screwed into the joists in the wall. Even with fairly minimal bracing, it's extremely solid.
greetings Ron warning: i am one who does not acclamate to paradigm shifts very well! since walls in modern homes are generally built with open grid covered externally with plywood or mdf of some sort and internally with plaster (wall) board-- i have always been a fan of open grid (using either 1x4--for HO Scale--or 1x3--for N Scale) that is then provided with a subroadbed of birch plywood, be it level table top style, or cookie cutter vertically dimensional style. i have yet to get into using foam insulation pieces but confess to an infatuation with woodland scenics risers and incline pieces (it makes incline easily by providing the percentage already cut--just needing the modeler to provide easement into and out of). i use cork roadbed on top of plywood and/or the woodland scenics foam. i gave up on homasote when switching to N Scale as the imperfections in thickness especially with humidty changes just created too much up and down and unlevel across the ties to deal with in that smaller scale. it might be an old standard, but it still works! oh, and i prefer to use L beam legs using the same 1x4 or 1x3 dimensional lumber which so screws into wall studs along the way (probably every 48 inches) to give it a good sturdy (me bumping against it not causing a whole train to fall on its side off the track) way of not moving easily. i rent, so the fewer the wall holes to patch and paint, the better! hope something here it helpful...and thanks to other posters...as their information is always helpful to me! respectfully Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
There are lots of ways as has been mention, so here my way, double slot wall bracket from Lowes or Home depot.
