Stain and/or paint for wood kit?

MVW May 12, 2012

  1. MVW

    MVW E-Mail Bounces

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    OK, I'm a complete newb at this part of the hobby ... the modeling part, that is.

    I hadn't touched a model kit since the 1970s, when I screwed around with Revell warships. But last night I threw together one of MTL's ice house platform exension kits, with only a few mishaps. :closedmouth:

    Now what?

    I did a quick search, but the only advice I found was to use India ink diluted in alcohol, and to try out various mixtures on scrap before hitting the model.

    Is that as good as it gets for advice? Anybody want to share any of their techniques?

    Should I give this thing a coat of paint first, then stain? Or am I better off just coming up with a color of stain I prefer and going from there?

    Thanks for your help!

    Jim
     
  2. Randy Stahl

    Randy Stahl TrainBoard Supporter

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    I stain using Dr Bens stain then dry brush the actual color over top. Unless a structure is newly painted there will be some weathering. I don't know if any trainboard advertisers carry Dr Bens , perhaps someone can chime in with that answer. I know they have a website and I have been buying my stains on E Bay.

    Randy
     
  3. MichaelWinicki

    MichaelWinicki TrainBoard Member

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    Jim,

    There is no "right" answer.

    I've used paints, stains and weathering powders to color wood structures.

    You don't often see weathering powders used as a "paint" but they do work well.

    For stains, I really like those put out by Hunter Line... You can find them when you do a search. If you download their catalog you'll get a listing of their stains.
     
  4. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    I use slightly diluted Floquil or PolyScale for the base color to get a worn slightly older look. For building sides I do both sides to prevent warping and even then with the solvent based it will slightly warp as it will with water base. While the sides dry I weigh them down with wax paper and books on top so they cure flat. Problem with painting after gluing is often the glue seals the wood in the area applied and paint and stains don't take well. At times I have applied the India ink and alcohol mix prior to painting and then almost dry brush lightly so the grey color will show through here and there imitating weathered wood that the paint is almost gone on. Lightly painting with a base color then applying a 2nd colr lightly after drying well then sanding lightly with a fine grit sandpaper will also get the base coat to show through in spots again simulating weathering. India ink in alcohol settles out over time and one can get different shades by the amount one stirs the mix.

    The old mill here had the India ink applied first and then diluted white paint dry brushed on.[​IMG]
     
  5. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jim-

    The laser kits usually have some excess wood around their parts. Take that waste and use it for testing techniques and see what warps, what covers, etc. Then take that knowledge to the actual kit pieces themselves.
     
  6. MVW

    MVW E-Mail Bounces

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    Thanks, guys.

    Boxcab, that's exactly what I'd planned on doing. Stopping at the area Hobby Lobby (no RR LHS around here) tomorrow to pick up some ink, and we'll see what kind of mess I can make.

    Jim
     

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