Does anyone have any tips on trackplanning. It would seem easy to use a program, but I think I would rather free-hand it so can anyone give me some tips?
The most important step is closing your eyes and imagineering your layout. What kind of scenes do you see? What kinds of train running are you doing? A good place to start is reading John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operations (Third Edition). And start keeping a "scrapbook" of layouts you like. Doesn't have to be the whole layout, just parts. And figure out why you like them: this will help guide your "druthers" / vision of your own layout, as well as see what "works" in a more practical manner (caution: not all trackplans are realistic in terms of actual tracklaying and train running ) Then it's a lot of doodling. Try out many different scenes & shapes. Eventually a computer program like AnyRail or whatnot will help you see if you fudged on your turnouts / track spacing / curve radius (we all do while doodling), but after doing a bit of research / practice you can draw things pretty close. Everything gets tweeked when actually laying rail, anyway. Other resources include Tony Koester's Realistic Model Railroad Design and Realistic Model Railroad Bulding Blocks, anything by Lance Mindheim or Byron Henderson. Useful railroad dimensions are here. But it all starts with the dreaming and the doodling.
Good advice Fuji. I am a fan of your modifications to most plans, I enjoy reading your posts. I used to do custom design work for clients. And that is exactly how design works, which seeing your designs I imagine you know. uji really hit it on the head and this applies to almost anything. If you are having a house built, a landscape, a patio, etc. A scrap book of likes and visions and just as importantly what you don't like. Specifically, what you don't like that is similar to what you like. IE, if you like mine loaders. Pictures of mine loader layouts you like are important. But so are a few of ones that make you cringe. The combination of the two should help you understand what you want as much as you don't want.
Yeah, MC's process is not only what I use for layout design, but also for website and print design (same basic creative process).
I take a slightly more iterative approach. (i) Figure out your space (ii) Figure out how to stick a nice long continuous run into that space. (iii) Look for the "wasted" parts of that space and fill them with things that'll add operational interest (spurs, industries, etc). (iv) Add track clutter as desired.
For a freight-focused North American layout there are two basic clutter elements, "siding with a bunch of spurs and maybe a crossover", and "spurs that you can only reach by backing up." In the image below there is at least one spur that can only be reached via two reverse moves.
Well I made a BIG desision. Instead of entering actual model railroading I was going to build a small module, but I've decided to go along with MR and build a Virginian N scale 2x4 layout instead of the 4x8 layout in HO. Same layout smaller scale.:tb-rolleyes: Anyway I want to use unitrack so I'll prabably have to do some modding of the plan. Than there's the layout layout which I would want to do later. I figure see what my skills are than go to the "big time stuff" which means I'll eventually have to plan, but still thanks fo the tips and keep 'em coming!
Scaling an HO 4'x8' to N 2'x4' doesn't quite work, especially with unitrack. A better option is to scale it for a N hollow core door (3'x6'ish), which allows for wider curves and angling the track so it's not parallel to the edge of the layout (which is what you almost have to do with unitrack in 2'x4'). Even a small HCD (2 1/2'x6') is better than 2'x4' for unitrack.
Well it will have to be 2' so it can go through my house's doors... so I think 2x5 or 5 1/2' should do.
I have personal experience with this. Because N-scale is slightly MORE than one-half the size of HO, simply reducing an HO layout by half does not usually work. Nothing really fits. By using track planning software, I discovered this before laying any track, saving myself a lot of disappointment. If you make the legs of your benchwork removable or foldable, the layout can fit through the doorway sideways, allowing it to be more than 2 feet deep. That's exactly what I have done with my small N-scale layout, which is 32 inches deep. The legs are easily removable, and two people can easily carry it through even a narrow doorway. - Jeff
Jeff makes excellent points, especially about going through doors and layout legs. Also, he has given you the info he found using track planning software. So know you don't have to use it if you don't want to. HCD's by there nature are portable and easily carried by two persons. Even with scenery. The trick to moving a HCD layout is to have a large cardboard box or two sawhorse to put the layout on as you take the legs off and before you reattach the legs. Also, I would ask you why this layout has to be moved? Think about it. Even if you build a module and move it around you will have to make periodic repairs. Things go bump during moves. I'm a fan of layouts especially HCD ones instead of a module. Where do you go with the module? Back and forth switching? HCD layouts are relatively small in size and with some studying of the many 'how to' magazines available most of your questions will be answered and you will have a layout that trains can actually go 'around.' M2CW Jim
I would build it in the spare room, and run it in another room, which also has alot of outdoor lite so I could have better light for taking pictures and such. Also, I really would like having more than just 2' on a mountainy model railroad.
Well...not really. there more like 2 1/2 but it would need to go through a hallway then turn, so better safe than sorry.:tb-wink:
Well here's my VERY rough first draft of the plan. I figure I can figure out what Unitrack goes where and then adapt and figure ot the grade and all that good stuff.
Well I can see your first problem - that runround on the diagonal track! In order to get the height to clear the tracks at the right , that will need to be on a grade - the moment you uncouple to run around, yor cars are going to head downhill - fast! If you have that section flat the grade will be too steep. Second 3rd square from the left by the houses Two back to back turnouts ,and a further LH one will far more than fill the square - i'd suggest getting either Anyrail or XTrkcad and actually plotting the layout out - Everybody hand-draws layouts with switches that are far too small. It might be worth a read of http://users.iafrica.com/c/ca/caroper/tutorial/ or looking at http://www.cke1st.com/m_train2.htm
As shortliner says, the size and geometry of turnouts in your plan need careful re-thinking. For example, at the top center of your plan, you show 3 turnouts in about 8-9 inches. Actually, N-scale turnouts are about 5-6 inches long EACH, so you can't fit 3 turnouts in the space you have shown. Also the angle of the diverging track on most of the turnouts in your drawing is too abrupt. Even small-numbered turnouts are much more gradual. These sorts of problems are very common with hand drawn track plans. There are several ways to do it better. One is to use a computer program. XTrackCAD is FREE and does a fine job. Or you can purchase a couple of the turnouts you intend to use and use them to obtain accurate measurement. Finally, there are plastic templates for use in drawing track plans that will give you more realistic results. - Jeff
