I've read about insulated rail joints without using bulky insulated rail joiners. Something like cutting gaps and using epoxy to insulate. Has anybody used this technique? (pics?)Or perhaps using insulating joints but shaving down some of the plastic. [ February 22, 2005, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Don Rickle ]
Hello Don, I am not personally crazy about this method although sometimes I use it to close a gap around the frogs in turnouts. On the main you want the track to be able to expand. Using epoxy defeats this. Micro engineering, Atlas code 55 plastic rail joiners are low profile and with rail painting they are hardly noticable. If you using code 80 well you can try to trim some of the bulk off the rail joiners. The methods envolve one of a few ways, one is to use an epoxy putty, and fill the gap, when cured sand it to the rail profile and paint, the other is to use reg epoxy to glue a plastic filler in. Try to find a piece of sheet plastic that almost fills the gap, cut it into a small square, epoxy it in. and when its cured cut, file and trim it to the rail profile. If you use a gray piece of plastic it will be less noticable even after painting. Rob
Using a piece of styrene to fill the gap and then contour to the rail profile afterward is the method I am familary with (and have installed on someone else's layout). But the tip on using grey styrene instead of white is a great one, thanks!
On severeral places on my layout, after the track has been ballasted, I have gone and just cut the track with my Xeon (?) track cutting tool. the gap is unnoticable but creates the break in electrical current that I need. I don't fill in the gap with anything, and there is no problem with derailment.
I use Peco C80 plastic joiners. They are almost transparent and quite low profile. On my modules I had to mark the ties at the gaps to remember where they were! Beats the heck out of those humongous orange Atlas joiners.
You gotta wonder whom at Atlas came out with the idea of International Orange railjoiners! Say lavee! rob
For what it's worth department: I read the previous threads and actually learned something. I like the styrene. This actually models the real rails. If I may I would like to describe the procedure I use. Simply, I use Gap Filler, cyanoacrylate. I work it into both sides of the track and ties prior to making the isolating cut. Allow it to dry thoroughly. Cut the track with the thinnest blade I can find, using my dremel tool. After the cut I repeat the process, working the Gap Filler into the space. Allow it to dry and then clean-it-up. Works great and is hardly noticed. The Gap Filler will assure the gap doesn't close. The first application of Gap Filler assures the track won't turn or torque during the cutting process. I don't like the looks of the isolating rail joiners and they don't hold up well. In that they tend to allow the track to move out of alignment. Not to mention subsequent derailments. I don't recommend using them. Have fun!
On many real railroads, the insulated rail joiners are spray painted bright orange. Who'd a thunk it? Of course, they aren't as big as the Atlas insulators. Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
Indeed a great idea. But why not use black stryene? Well, maybe not black, but seems you could find some of those runners that hold molded parts and use one of those that is a better color. Maybe Micro Trains delrin black?
I paint all the plastic railjoiners a mineral red. That color best simulates rust. It's also a great color for painting the rails of the track. Stay cool and run steam.....
The ME and Atlas C55 insulated joiners are inconspicious, as Rob first noted. I used to force fit the Peco insulated joiners onto C80 track--I believe I had to grind a little on the bottom flange to avoid the bloody thumb syndrome. I have some rules about insulating gaps on my large, free-flowing layout. The first is that gaps occur only on straightaways. I use a razor saw, or a very thing cutting disk, to make them, and slip a tiny piece of styrene into the bottom of the gap to keep them from closing. I will not cut a gap on a flextrack curve--it simply invites trouble. Flextrack has some slop--cutting a gap in a curve invites kinks, a too-wide or too-narrow gauge, etc.--even with insulating joiners. The second is that insulating gaps occur at least six inches from actual flextrack joints. The joints have enough to do as it is, and sometimes are soldered, although I don't recommend that practice. The third is that I will use insulating joiners on fixed track, such as sectional track or switches--but only if necessary. A crossover between opposing tracks requires insulation. Can I lay the switches accurately enough that they don't require joiners? Sometimes I can, sometimes not. Trackplans with tighter tolerances than mine will probably have to use many more insulating joiners than mine. I'm not familiar with C80 joiners any more (I heard they weren't orange lately); I'd suggest trying some Peco joiners if they still are.
So Pete, you usually don't solder flex track joints? [ February 22, 2005, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: Don Rickle ]
Not on straights. I sometimes solder them if they are on a curve. I trim them before soldering--the inside rail will be shorter, of course. With Atlas C55, the rail joiners are strong enough, compared to the track, that I've found I don't have to solder them on broad curves. Your experience may vary.
Wow, my box has all three colors--which shows you how much I've used them over the years. I'll repeat my warning about using them on flextrack on a curve. They just won't hold.
