Another oldie for me this week. Due to health issues I have not been up to the loft much where the trains are. False alarm in Sugar Land. Everyone move along.
I hope you're fighting fit again soon Russell. A Guilford SD35 passes by on the main and a C424 reverses to the sand tower Mike
Here is this weeks pair of completed cars, along with a picture of my RS-32 operating on the club layout with a pair of Intermountain F3's. This is a Monon 1944 AAR Boxcar, modeled using a Front Range ACF Welded side car which represents the PS welded side car made prior to the PS1 production. Car Painted with Reefer Gray Paint and lettered with Champ Decals. 52' E&C Corrugated Side Gon painted boxcar red and lettered with Oddballs Decals. Atlas RS-32 and IMRC F3's hauling a 20 car train approaching one of the towns on the Strongsville Model Railway Club layout. Thanks for looking! Rick!
I'm still working on benchwork for my outdoor HO layout. IMG_3015 by thetraingeekboy, on Flickr IMG_3017 by thetraingeekboy, on Flickr IMG_3014 by thetraingeekboy, on Flickr Just built the lift bridge so I can go in and out of my layout area in the front yard. I used to use Railimages, but I have noticed that I have to be logged in to see those images. Since I frequent a bunch of forums online, I have decided to post my photos on flickr for this new layout. this is because I want other people to be able to see the images without the hassle of getting an account. Maybe I am misunderstanding how Railimages works.
" I made a litttle bit of progress on the SERA boxcar....Still a work in progress " One of the nicer weathering jobs I have seen in quite some time!!
I just noticed a few things about your lift bridge. You may have to modify it to work to let it open once you have track installed across it. You will need to raise the pivot point of the hinges to be above the height of the top of the rail or the rail will buckle and destroy itself when you try to open the bridge. You can do this by shimming each side of the hinge with a half inch block of wood on each side to raise the pivot pin up.
I was lifting and looking yesterday and wondering the same thing. Will the rails clear??? Thanks for the tip.
I just read about rust spots in the Tom Mann "Weathering" book. I hope to get started on that soon. Yours really looks nice. :thumbs_up:
Wolfgang I have always liked the C-19 proportions, to me it is one beauty of a loco, and your expert modeling makes it even better. Keep it up and I'll be moving to HOn3. Thanks for keeping me inspired! :thumbs_up:
Here is a crude but quick illustration showing one way to do it. You can scenic over the hinges to blend them in a bit, just note that some will scrape off as the hinge opens and closes. However, the tracks should pull away from each other and not ever touch even when the bridge is opened all the way.
Been working on the city on the HO layout. First block is mostly done... More small details to go but it's close enough to move on to the other side of the street.
You need the risers only if you use roadbed. If the track is flat on the wood, it lifts fine as long as the hinges are above the wood: The 3" section above is in the middle of the layout: and becomes the vertical end piece when it's folded up: I laid the track, and then cut it with Dedeco .009 cutting discs. Very small gaps when open, but because the hinges are on top, it clears just fine. If I used roadbed, I'd have to raise the hinges by that much as well. I'll be using ABS 2" caps as oil tanks in front & a removable power house in back to cover them.
My lift bridge is not going to have roadbed as it is outside. I will try it without, otherwise I can always shim it a tiny little bit. Thanks for the tips guys.
You're right. I just assumed he'd be using Horribly Oversized hinges to match his trains ("And when you 'assume' you make an..." ) My bad.
