So I got some old cars with repeedo couplers on them, lost one went to the LTS and he said they do not make them any more, You need to upgrade. Ok, and he takes me to a rack full of couplers, fine they all look the same to me, Hold on there... what brand is it he asks? Then he proceeds to explain to me all the different kinds. He also says it is easier to get then all ready assembled. this is all fine a good till I need one for an engine/loco, so I go back and my guy helps me again only this time it looks like I need to build them, I say hey, I think I mite need to know how to do that anyway, so I get me a package of parts, in fact I get 3 different kinds, to cover all the bases. I take them home, they look a little intimidating but I read the instructions and then I try to put these tiny-tinny parts together, I try and try but I can not get the parts to stay together long enough without bending or breaking the plastic to place them in the metal casing, to fold it down, to lock in place, so I can put it on the wheel set, so I use the &*%$#@ engine again.... Anyway is there some kind of trick or tool that I need to do this??? How do/did you do your replacements? Do you hire out the train genie to get it done? I really could use some help here . . . . Thank you Also I have been using Micro trains couplers if you have any ideas I would welcome all suggestions & Ideas JDB
You can buy Micro-Trains #1015's pre fab for most of your Atlas, Life Like and Kato locomotives. We wish they'd put one out with a shorter shank. For your freight cars you can buy bulk packages of freight or passenger trucks with or without the truckmounted couplers. I would encourage you to buy from your local hobby shop. In the event they can't deliver then check out the vendors or sponsors of TB and order from them. You will be better off getting rid of the Rapido Couplers and switching over to knuckle couplers.
Thats what I'm talkin about...changin over all the repedos to Knuckle's and Yes I do support My local shop that is where I'm gettin all the couplers But I still need to know how to put them together! I think they must have super magnifying Eyes to see the small parts and some special tools. or they have little people make em' JDB
I believe MT makes a coupler assembly jig. If my memory serves....I saw one on Fifers Hobbies site. http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/micro-trains_tools__parts_and_.html Also...a magnifier with light or an Opti-Visor is almost mandatory !! Especially for us old f*rts with bad eyes...lol. They can be a pita to assembly...but once ya get the hang of it...its not so bad. I made my own assembly jig which is just a fatter needle thingy (came out of THE Wifes sewing kit...shhhhhhhhh.) I can assemble a coupler in less then a minute now !! .
Jack,for cars,especially if your not very good with small parts,the best thing you can do for old cars is put Microtrains complete truck assemblies with couplers installed right on them like the stock trucks.A pack of ten sets can be bought for 30-40 dollars,and the difference in the way they run over stock trucks on old stuff is amazing.They're available in many different truck styles to match what you take off,and also black or brown.As far as the 1015-1016 sets for locomotives,Microtrains does make a fixture to put them together,but,once again,it helps a little,but you gotta have nerves of steel to put them together.Just getting the springs seperated once you dump them out of the tubes can be a chore.Bye the way,a little tip on that for everybody,if you have springs coiled together,place an X-Acto blade on top of the springs lengthwise,and gently move the blade from side to side.The springs will pretty much seperate like MAGIC in a few seconds!!! Also,I take an old,thin paintbrush handle,cut the head off a straightpin,and stick the sharp end of the pin in the end of the brush handle.Now,put the pin on any piece of flat steel,and tap maybe 1/8 inch of the pin flat,and clean up the end with a file..Makes a great tool to pick up the springs and place them in the boxes.
I don't put them togther so I'm not much help in that department. We need to ask George, how he does it. Sounds like he found a quick way to assemble them.
Ya for the cars I'm gonna buy the all ready to go trucks, But for the Loco it is a different story. I just figured I would learn to do them if I had to do 1 already. I just did not think it would be that hard. So I will check with the store tomorrow and see what I need to "get er done", cus it looks like I am going to have to change them all over now, and no one is going to do it for me. I will however check and see If anything is available for the loco already to go just to attach it. So I got the rolling stock covered. Now just to get the engines done... I got to hire me some elves. JDB
If you've got an older locomotive with truck-mounted couplers, you might want to visit the Micro-Trains website to see if they have a conversion kit for your particular loco.
I really hate putting those 1015s together. What is even worse is the conversion kit for Bachmann trucks. I just gave up on that project. What I do now is just buy the Atlas truck assemblies with Accumate couplers as a cheaper alternative to the Micro Train assemblies. Both couplers are compatible with eachother.
Jack, IMHO, it's worth your while to learn how to assemble and adjust Micro Trains couplers. I advise the following setup: 1) A clear work area, with chest-high work surface, on which you can rest your hands while working on the model. Achieve this by either using a low (child's) chair, or by raising the effective table height with a cardboard box. Note that small parts will sometimes perversely leap out of your hands, and so an even, light-colored surface surrounding the work area helps in relocating them. 2) Adjustable desk light (Luxo brand, or cheaper). 3) Head-mounted magnifier. I use a selection of "Opticaid" glasses-mounted magnifiers, of which the most useful is the intermediate 2.25x model. Available from numerous places, including Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/OPTICAID-MAGNIFIER-WORKING-DISTANCE-POWER/dp/B000HU1UIE/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1309455395&sr=1-5), Micro-Mark, etc. 4) Micro Trains coupler tools, depicted here: http://www.micro-trains.com/pl-ToolsAcc.php a) MT Coupler height gauge; part number 988 00 031 b) MT Trip pin height gauge; part number 988 00 034 c) MT Coupler tweezers; part number 988 00 061 5) Other tools: a) Regular modeling tweezers. b) Needle-nose pliers. The above setup is obvious useful for modelmaking in general, as well. Mark H.
The Rapido coupler is still available. However if you are committed to converting your fleet the link to the MTL conversion chart is: Micro-Trains | The Ultimate in N and Z scale model trains We find the best thing a customer can do is bring in the item they want to convert and then we can match them up with the proper truck and or coupler. No sense in putting a Roller Bearing Truck under a 36' wood reefer or an arch-bar truck under a Bethgon.
On the subject of couplers. Has anyone had problems with McHenrys decoupling in long trains? I am having issues with Atlas accumates decoupling and I want to replace them.
My advice is to avoid the McHenry's for the following reasons: 1. They have the same shank length as the Accumates and will give you the same 10 foot coupling distance. 2. They do not come with a coupler box so they can only be a retrofit to an existing Accumate or MTL coupler box. 3. Couplers seem to droop in the coupler box causing the trip pins to catch on anything between the rails. As for coming apart I never experienced it but then I didn't get to far before I gave up on them. My advice is to bite the bullet and go with the MTL couplers.
Because I like to get the most for my money, I build my own M-T couplers. I like the 1025's for freight cars and 1015's for the engines. To build them I use a 5 inch long piece of 2x4 standing on edge. I drilled a hole for a brad to slide into near the edge of the piece wood. I have the hole spaced just far enough from the edge so that the draft gear box will lay flat and when I put the coupler knuckle on it, the brake hose will hang over the edge. It doesn't take long to build them once you get the hang of it. And BTW, I got this idea from someone else here on Train board- I just can't remember who to give the credit too, Sorry. Craig
With the right tools and knowledge and just a little practice, putting together couplers can actually be quite easy. Mark was absolutely right about buying the right tools and supplies from Micro-Trains. (See the website he gave you a link for). I didn't waste money on the kit, though. On that page you will find the special tweezers, coupler height gauge, and the tap and drill set. You can get graphite from any hardware store. That's all you need. I've never used the "coupler assembly fixture" and didn't need it. Follow the directions carefully that are on the back of each coupler packet. Thoroughly buff everything with graphite with the dull end of the drill bit. The special tweezers hold the pieces of the coupler together while you finish assembling it. Hold them gently! When it comes time to put in the spring, pick it up in the middle with tip of an xacto knife, then put a little spit on the end of spring with your tongue. Don't worry if it comes off into your mouth--just put it back on the knife. It doesn't even matter if the whole spring is goopy with spit. The spit will hold the spring in its pocket and allow you to gently slide it off the knife while you hold a fingertip (of the hand holding the tweezers and coupler) over the pocket to help guide it in and keep it from bouncing away. Snap on the lid or, in the case of some of them, lightly touch with a soldering iron to "solder" together. You don't always need to use a tap and drill. But I've had to do it many times and found it worth the small investment. Really, it gets easy after a little while and you'll wonder why you were ready to tear your hair out in the beginning.
