I do not think that is the case either, just saying for running diverse sized cars, 15 inches should be the lowest so there are fewer problems. Granted if all that you are running is 40 foot cars and small locomotives, any radius will be ok.
Oh boy, do we really need another track radius throw-down. If you want to run long cars and not have them derail all over, use large radius curves or adjust couplers and trucks until they go roundy-round on 9 3/4" radius curves, or run shorter things. Hallelujah. Next topic.
I just got two of these (BN 1776 and BN 5383 - my first GE locomotives) and they do look sharp. I'll be giving them a test run this weekend. No major manufacturer has done a run (that I know of) but there has been at least one special run and there are custom painters who do BN 1876 as well. In the last two months, I've seen two sell for $150+ on eBay. If I have a custom painter do BN 1876 for me, it wouldn't surprise me if Kato quickly follows up with a run. Andy Tetsu Uma
The issues I've seen with 1876 on ebay are they are using the mid-production run SD40-2s. 1876 was an "early" one. I got one that I painted into BN years ago...and can tell my painting job sucks, so gonna strip it and repaint it into 1876.
I just might have to pick up one of these BN 76 schemes to go along with this beauty: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/uploads/1522/SP_68001.jpg[/url]
If I coulda I woulda changed my original reply from 'needed' to "Recommended". True most six axles will go around 11"...but some will hang. Thats why...to save newbies any headaches later...while drooling over the locos at the LHS...if it said '15" radius recommended'...no one could really have a cow if it didnt work on their 11" radius. Same with longer passenger cars and other 85 foot cars. :tb-wink: .
Actually, what I called "short shank" is just what used to be the standard coupler on Kato locos. The one on the DRGW SD45 in the photo came off the back of a Kato F3 unit. Which brings up the topic of Kato's real short shank coupler, the dummy that comes on the Bethgons and can be retrofitted to the F3's to make them finally look good. But that's another thread...... (or was another thread). Now you're fully back in touch BarstowRick. :tb-biggrin:
I can only find "mid production" Kato SD40-2 units. Do you have a part number for the early one? Personally, I can live with the mid-production version. Andy Tetsu Uma
I don't, but it was the first run of SD40-2s, so when Kato did BN, UP, CSX, undec, CNW, EMD leasing, and wanna say a few more runs.
BN1876 It would be better if you were to get a Kato early production SD40-2 as because, BN1876 has number boards on the back of the long hood and has the chicken wire style grills and no ditch lights. The Kato mid productions have ditch lights that you would have to remove to make it look right.
The first run of Kato mid production SD40-2 did not have ditchlights. The later runs have had them. to me the biggest problem using a mid-production SD40-2 would be the rear end. The grills are just to differant. Kevin
BN1876 Kevin, Yes you are right, Kato did a snout nose SD40-2 that is mid production style but that wouldn't work for BN1876 as you would have to replace the nose to an 88" with brake lever not brake wheel and the grills would still be wrong. There are plenty of early SD40-2's available for sale to do BN1876. I have all of the different models that Kato made of the SD40-2.
I forgott about the long nose. I have several of them and I replaced the nose with a shorter one long bfore Kato did it so I could make mid-production SD40-2's for BN. Kevin
So what is the Series for the early production versions? I know 176-49XX and 176-82XX are not the "snoot" nose versions. Are there any more?
Large radius curves Back in my railroading days as a signal maintainer I got a call one day abut a signal problem where they tried to take an85' flatcar around a sharp curve and sure enough it derailed and clipped some signal wires. Even the big guys have that problem.
