I will soon be 60 years old, and have wanted a layout for nigh on fifty years; so I'm going to make one. I have noticed that all publications I've read seem to tread softly around offending potential advertisers. Thus, I have no idea who actually makes the best model RR track. Atlas, Walthers, some other? While I am not about to make this upcoming 5'X9' layout a way of life, I do wish to be accurate, and thus shall use Code 83 nickel-silver rail, for a time period of the late 20s to mid 30s. So, as the first of likely hundreds of questions, who makes the BEST track, and then, who makes the best AFFORDABLE track? I am not rich nor even well off. Locos used will be primarily Shays, Heislers, Mikados, and the like. And since there will be room for reasonably large radius (22"+) curves, maybe even a Big Boy, or some such near so large. Fairly big, anyway. As I live on a remote island 575 miles WSW of Anchorage Alaska, this forum is likely to be mine only source of practical information. Biased personal opinions are EXACTLY what I'm looking for, and shall make my decision based on them. I thank you in advance.
If your cars and locos wheels will work with code 83, then I would recommend Atlas. It's reasonably priced, well designed, and is available every where - and seems to never be out of stock (at least for long).
I second Mr. Loutzenhiser's vote for Atlas code 83. Have been building layouts (this is the 5th) and never used Their brand 'til this layout. It's been a good experience.
This is my second layout, both have been relatively large (10x14 and 20x30). I have also worked on numerous other layouts, including the layout at the WA State History Museum, all have used code 83. All but the Museum (which used Shinohara - now Walthers) have used Atlas. You will find it to be reliable and available and I give it my absolute endorsement. Here is the best price I have found, but there may be others who know of a cheaper source. Michael http://e-hobbyland.com/atlascode83.html
I'll be contrarian and say go with Peco code 75 track. Anything that will run on code 83 will run on 75, and will look MUCH better on the smaller track. Peco track is slightly more expensive, but that won't be much of a burden on a fairly small layout. And while most modelers say that code 83 is "more prototypical", it's really not. Code 75 works out to be about 90 pound rail, which was THE most common rail size up through the 1970s. Code 83 is about 115 lb rail, which is fine for MODERN layouts. If you're modeling the 1920s, you should be using rail that's no larger than code 75, and should actualy be using code 55 (70 lb rail). The largest advantage to using Peco over any other rail manufacturer is the switches: they're solid, reliable, have fantastic quality control (something Atlas switches lack), and best of all have a neat spring arrangement for the throws that remove the need for ANY other type of switch machine, be it (oversized) caboose manual throws or (expensive) Tortoise switch machines.
Welcome to TrainBoard, itdincor! It sounds like you have started on the right track! 22" radius and #6 turnouts (switches) is the way to go, where you are in a salty atmosphere. Nickel silver rail is much better than brass rail up there. I have used both Atlas 100 and Shinohara 083 flex track. The only difference I notice is the difference in tie spacing, and Shinohara ties are brown on the 3 foot sections I got. (I can not use code 083 track because I still have a number of good engines that have the long European flanges that bump over the molded tie strip "spikes", so I stay with code 100, but my trains run fine, so I live with the larger rail.) In my opinion, the finest turnouts (switches) are hand made and fitted ones, and the best but expensive are the Peco "snap" set type, with the Atlas the least expensive usable ones. It depends on who you buy them from. Since you will be involved with mail ordering, you could check out the advertisers here on TraiBoard, or get acquainted with some Hobby Shops, and look on the TrainBoard Yellow Pages Train Store. This is where you and any of us can buy or sell train items between us 6K members. We even trade sometimes. Are you mobile enough to build the bench work, or do you have some help available? Do you have the tools to make repairs? Can you assemble kits? Have you already bought some rolling stock? Do you plan on doing some switching, or just watch the trains run? Do you have a camera so you can post photos on Railimages here? Tell us about yourself and your layout.
I can't speak for Peco, but I can tout Micro Engineering's code 83, 70 and 55 track. All fine products. However, for economy and ease in working, definitely go with the Atlas brand. And while you're at it, keep an eye out for sales or low prices at stores like Standard Hobby Supply, or one of the stores that advertise here on Trainboard. Why pay full retail when you can get it cheaper elsewhere?
Welcome to TrainBoard! You'll find a wealth of excellent advice from young and old here. I returned to Model Railroading about 14 months ago and am working on my second layout. I abandoned my first, due to the very issues you are asking about. In my opinion, you are facing some of the most important decisions you will have to make on your railroad. Please, let me suggest you take a few minutes to read my Lessons Learned on Track and Wheels are Round. Choice of track determines the kinds of wheels your railroad will tolerate. As an example, I have found, much to my extreme dismay, that not all code 83 track is compatible, and further, I would have been better advised to use code 100 on my layout than the much touted and revered code 83. IF you intend on running 85 ft passenger cars and long freight cars, you'll quickly discover that 22" radius is a no go. I started at 24" the minimum recommended by Walthers and now am at 30". Model railroading fun seems directly proportional to the quality of the track. Best regards, Joe
Welcome to TrainBoard, itdincor and Ray! I guess you will get your track per mail. So I think it's not the cost of the track alone. In my opinion it's not the rail size. Even code 100 can look good if it's weathered. For me the width of the rail head is important. This is usually shiny! For my new yard at Westport I've used the new Peco code 83 as well as some code 70 track. UK is not so far away. :angel: Wolfgang
More Thoughts on Track First, thanks to all for the replies. I'm starting from pretty close to ground zero, here. From the previous answers and further investigation, I am now leaning towards Atlas Code 100 Flex Track and Peco #6 turnouts. Although not accurate, Code 100 appears easier to work with, more durable, more compatible, and less prone to damage during installation. So much for accuracy! To answer the question, I am not so crippled as to be unable to create this mini-world. Though I experience severe chronic pain due to past injuries asea, I can do this. Just lie down for a while, now and then, that's all. So soon as the first check from sale of my fishing vessel clears, will buy a Bachmann Shay and a Heisler from discountrainsonline.com. Also some joiners, flex track, proper track cutter, etc. For power I am going all DCC, as I've nothing to unlearn, and it really sounds simpler. I'll not buy a beginner's model, but neither shall I purchase the most ornate and complex. This is my next serious decision. While I must keep costs down, past experience has taught me to buy the best that one can afford. In the long run, it's cheaper. The layout could be so large as 5'6"X10', but little more. It will have two and possibly three levels, with both logging and mining operations, as well as a long haul passenger and freight service, eventually, and since I was a mariner for 24 years, there MUST be at least a small harbor! And a roundhouse. :teeth: Anyway, right now it seems I'll be going with Atlas flex, and Peco #6 turnouts. I always want to call them switches! :embarassed:
The cheapest priced track out there is from this guy: Ebay 6 yr. Power Seller Nagengast Hardware and Hobby Est. 1947 68-02 Fresh Pond Rd. Ridgewood N.Y. 11385 Hobbies001@aol.com 718.821.1319 I originally found him on eBay, but contacted him in person for a large order, $1100. He was the nicest guy to deal with. It took about 9 months from the initial contact to the time I purchased the track but he had no problem with it. I still hadn't finalized on a track plan until then. You can buy on eBay, his ID name is hobbies001, or call him direct. His name is Hans. Example: I bought 150 pieces of code 83 atlas 36" for $2.40, and Atlas code 83 turnouts #6 were $8.75ea. I also got walthers/shinohara curved turnouts at decent prices. Why Atlas hasn't started making Curved turnouts just baffles me ? Good luck with the layout. Here's a link to my progress http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4961
I don't think that you can go wrong if you use Atlas code 100 track and Peco turnouts. This combination admittedly isn't as eye appealling as other options, but it's readily available, affordable, easy to work with, and very reliable in operation.
