I've use the traditional pine 1x2's and 1x4's for past L-girder benchwork, but my Dad brought up the suggestion of using ripped down plywood to make the girders. We would glue and screw all joints. Almost like making our own engineered beams, like in houses. Has anyone ever tried this or heard of this used in the past? Any good or bad point anyone can think of? I know it would be alot cheaper to do it this way, but would it be stong enough? thanks Ron
I haven't done it, but I'm positive I've heard of it being successfully done. I'm almost sure I've read of it in articles on layouts in MR. Strong enough, sure it is. Maybe I shouldn't respond based purely on hearsay evidence, but I think it's a very workable solution. Regards Ed
Unless you pre-drill all your holes,screwing it would probably split the verticle piece of ply.Plenty of glue wouldn't go astray either!
I think it's a fine idea, as long as you use good plywood. It would have an advantage over pine in that your L-girders would be less prone to splitting when screwing in joists; you might find it's no longer necessary to drill pilot holes. The only disadvantage is that it's a little more work. Strength-wise, plywood would actually be slightly stronger. It wouldn't be a lot cheaper, just a little, and possibly more expensive depending how your local lumber prices fluctate.
Jason is right about splitting the vertical piece of ply, but you'd be pre-drilling with pine to avoid splitting the horizontal piece. When my Dad and I built my first layout, we made the L-girders entirely out of 1x2. We glued, screwed, then let the glue dry and REMOVED the screws so they wouldn't interfere later on with joist placement. It's the glue that holds the thing together.
Ed is right, there was an MR article on it, Some time this century, I can't be more precise then that.
Thanks for all the quick feedback. I think I'm going to try it. Also, check out the layout pix I posted on the progress of the backdrop. http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/5506 Now that I have the new layout going, Ithink my post count is going to jump up a bit. Looking forward to future help. Thanks Ron
I use plywood all the time. It's perfectly acceptable. Buy a fairly good grade--the cheap stuff will warp.
I read this last night and thought about it in my sleep. Is that called obsession? I have a DVD illustrating how a group put together a simple model railroad a 4x8 using plywood strips in what I refer to as box construction in hopes of adding some rigidity to the train table. The problem they noted was bonding the plywood strips to each other on the corners and sides and the plywood table top. They discussed how screws will split the plywood even with pilot holes drilled. They solved the problem by first drilling pilot holes and hammering in very thin nails with a ample appllication of a wood bonding adhesive, Perhaps they didn't mean to but one of the last shots, where they moved the table from a upright position to a flat table top, the table torqued badly. Personally, my choice is anything but plywood. I don'tlike the way it cuts, the knots in the various plys that can send a track nail hunting and mess up a perfectly good railroad tie and there's little or no rigidity. Never mind warping and the cost. Since I can't use homasote to nail or secure my track... as many of you can...allergies...I have to look at other resources. Ok, so I am negative on plywood. I still think your best bet for L girder is pine or fir 1x3 on a 2x4 or 2x3...depending on the purpose and the load it needs to carry. I've used 1x2 on a 1x3 and found that worked well for a short distance...3 to 4 ft...although it will torgue. Just my two cents. From the "What it's Worth Department". You won't know for sure until you tried it.
I use biscuits about 12 inches apart and yellow carpenter's glue to make L girders with plywood. Martin Myers
