I will be building my layout on pink / blue foam which will be sitting atop a plywood base. I have seen a lot of people using the Woodland Scenics risers to gain height and support the track once gained. This seems to be very expensive. Is it really worth it? Has anyone tried to cut risers out of the foam? That is, Take a sheet of foam, Measure out the grade you want Cut with a fine tooth saw To go around curves it would be necessary to cut it. I am using Kato Unitrak Edit: I am doing this in N though all ideas are welcome. [ April 07, 2005, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
I have done it, and it is not so bad. I would recommend a hot wire cutter, plus some sort of guide on both sides of 2" foam. To make it flex, you cut thin wedges out of one side. Take your time, and go carefully, and it will work out fine. Andrew
I'm in a similar situation in builing my layout. I built one layout a few years back as a trial for different building techniques. I used built-up foam for my risers - mistake! It eventually worked very good, but was a LOT more work than I planned on. I've used 3/4" plywood over my benchwork, and I'll use it for the risers. Is it overkill? Maybe, but it'll smooth out the elevation transitions and make everything solid. I'll overlay everything with 1" foam for deadening and for allowing culverts to be cut under the track. On top of the foam I'll lay cork before the track itself. I'll use Atlas flex track. Everything is in HO. Mark in Utah
Grey One The verdict is still out on the foam risers. Like Unitrack they are quick to set up, but I find then very finicky lining up especially with the Unitrack. I will have to come up with a better method. I am using varius levels of the pink foam board for the elevated sections beyond/between the risers. For main line track or sidings the risers are not wide enough to handle two tracks, so I avoid sidings on the risers. Not sure how to handle the double track yet, it just fits with a little overhang in places.
Andrew, Thanks good to know Mark, I consider myself warned. Owen, Thanks for the input. It was your "pool table" thread with the pictures of the extensive usage that got me thinking. //Owen: You have mail regarding painted backdrops. [ April 06, 2005, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
Steve: Use the WS risers and you'll save yourself alot of aggravation. I used the WS 2% risers on the JJJ&E. Grief comes in many forms. You don't this type of grief. Stay cool and run steam.....
Bob I found that the Kato Track rides around can you suggest how you got the track to center on the risers or I am worring about that too much
Steve Here is a pic showing some possible combinations using risers, incline starters and incline sets. Suggest you pick up either WS Sub Terrain Book/Video/DVD although like an infomercial they do get you thinking. Owen
look i am C-H-E-A-P!, that's why i use the woodland scenic risers and inclines. building a layout over and over (if you have subroad problems) gets expensive. i learned my lesson on the 1st layout. EDIT: i have cut risers ( the flat pieces) from foam that is easy but not the inclines. my upcoming project will be cookie cutter, plus WS stuff. david [ April 06, 2005, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: davido ]
I use luan strips the width of the cork roadbed. This will give you a vertical easement for a smooth transition to the higher level. The luan was expensive, depending on how large or small a piece you can buy. I also use construction foam, but it will not help in making a vertical easement.
Steve, I cut my own with a hotwire cutter. It is very easy and you can make any grade and any width that you need. If you use some thin (.020) strips of aluminum on each side of the foam as a guide for the cutter you can even cut the grades on curves. I use this method rather than the WS method of notching the foam to allow it to bend. Besides the expense of the WS inclines, then you have to deal with filling in the notches. Nelson
Thanks everyone! Owen - looks interesting hmm davido - I have been warned Flash - What is "Luan"? Nelson - Sounds tricky. maybe with some practice.
I may need help here, but I call luan a fine type of wood that is used to cover walls and such. No knots or anything and very fine grain. I was thinking it came in four by eight foot sheets in the USA. Construction guys should know more about this. It is not just wall paneling. Also, it is thicker than veneer. About one-eight inch thick. Four mm or so.
Steve: That's exactly what you have to do. The 2% grade on the JJJ&E runs almost 80' from bottom to top to bottom. It is 7 1/2" inches high above the lowest point on the mainline. Stay cool and run steam....
Owen: Use a hot glue gun to stabilize the track on the risers. Place a small amount at each corner of the Unitrack section. Stay cool and run steam....
Flash, Luan plywood is available in many thicknesses (it is only the outer layer that is actually luan), in 4 x 8 sheets it is usually found down to 1/4" thick. The 1/8 and 3/32 thicknesses are called "door skin" ( because it is used to make hollow core doors) and normally found in 36" x 80" sheets, but occasionally you will find it in 4 x 8. Nelson
I was in the LHS the other day looking at the ws incline. I thought I saw a package of just incline pieces. I really had not thought much until I read this. Was I mistaken, if these where made you could just cut the square pieces and add the incline parts. Has anyone else seen these?
Yes, that is what I was using. I have one grade on the layout and it is about 18 feet long. I laminated the Luan strips together end-to-end. It gave a very smooth roadbed and a nice, long vertical transition. Thanks, Nelson B. [edit] I supported it with small styrofoam blocks every few inches. Easy to do and very sturdy.
OldScout50 Thats what I do, purchase the inclines or starter set depending on what I want and add risers as needed.
