There is a tool by Rix for uncoupling cars magnetically by hand, it looks like a small case h and has a magnet on each side and you put it in between the cars and the magnets pull the couplers to the sides. Now as for Kadees not coupling up I have never in thirty years heard of this happening, are you sure they were Kadees.
You know, I have one of those things from Rix. I tried it to see if I wanted to buy several for use during op sessions. I decided it was a little clunky to work with. We used it during one operating session, and everyone was negative. I didn't see spending the money to buy 10 or 12 of them, so went with the Kabob skewers, which are considerably cheaper and work 98 percent of the time. I have holders along the right of way that hold multiple skewers so crews don't have to carry them or look for them. I do cut them down in length. I also tried a lovely expensive tool from Micro-Mark and another I think from Accurail, which managed to break early on. Bob
Bob, On the two large layouts I have run on both have lots of switching. On the Washington layout we used both the skewes and the h design uncoupling tool. The skewes won hands down. On the layout her in Fresno that I just started to run on the skewers are part of the work tools you are given when you have to switch along the way. And as you said they sure are much cheaper. As far as the problems with Kadee couplers goes I to have lots of equipment that has Kadees on them that are 20 to 25 years old. In that time I have broken 2 couplers. I was not sure why they broke but 2 in 25 years I don't see this as a problem. Along with my #5 couplers I use several different types. I also use #24,27 and once and a while a 21 or 22. The only time I use the horn hook coupler that comes with the car is if the cars will not be switched out, like for passenger trains. Shannon WP LIVES (and so does the ATSF)
I'll stand corrected on my comments about K-D couplers not coupling up. Our experience was probably unique, but our cars would roll away before the K-D knuckle spring would let the knuckle rotate if it wanted to. We just never found one that wanted to cam the knuckles apart, even when the spring was missing, so we stayed with the loop and hook. I may experiment with a pair of today's newer K-D's when I have the time, just for curiosity. But to convert now would be prohibitive. Anyway, everyone's happy with what they get used to!
About 8 years ago I invested in a Kadee Magne-Matic #13 Sample Test Kit. This collection of Kadee couplers has 23 different couplers: (#4 - #711) and two uncouplers: #308 and 321, with instructions). The kit also comes with a "Coupler Adaptation" sheet to guide us in determining the couplers' unique and individual characteristics, thereby giving the modeller a good idea on which type of coupler to buy to work on whatever project or conversion he or she is working on. It's one of the best investments I have made in this hobby.
OK, so it seems to me that the general consensus, for a switching puzzle layout, is that the kadee's will work a treat. Since the largest 'train' on these layouts is 5 cars, I wont be worried about pull weight! I just have to position each car over the magnet, release pressure on the coupling, and drive off again.... too easy. Next question then.... LOL.... I take it that when the pressure is eased, the couplers 'open out'. If that coupling is then left sitting there over the uncoupler, I assume that when I want to pick that car up again I'll have to push it back an inch or so to clear the uncoupler and have the coupler close up (so I can apply pressure on it to remain closed over the magnet). Thats a very critical point in an Inglenook.... an extra inch or 2 in a stub ended siding become very important when you dont have it!
You can use controllable magnets to avoid this. The 'official' way would be to sell some limbs and get the electromagnets. The other way is to use some mechanism to drop the standard magnet down half an inch or more so it doesn't affect the couplers. (Cut hole in baseboard, and attach magnet with hinge and string is the simplest/cheapest method.) This also avoids the problem of accidental uncoupling if some slack happens while passing.
Regarding cost of electromagnets, I built my own. Unfortunately, I no longer remember where I got the specs from. I used 2" long steel pipe nipples, cut lengthwise so that 2/3 was left. After wrapping with teflon tape to cover rough edges, wrap with magnet wire (about 30 gauge) so that the nipple is about 3/4 full. You need a power supply to provide power to energize the coil, I have to check the rating, I bought a transformer and rectifier. A rotary switch and push button switch energizes the coil to uncouple. Select which coil you want to power with the rotary switch, push the push button to power up, and the couplers open. I built mine on new construction, I can't imagine doing so on existing trackwork. I had access to everything but the pipe nipples for free, so this made sense for me. If anyone is interested, I'll try to provide more info, unless someone else can figure out the specs required. I did mine awhile ago and am not sure where the article I used was located. Gary
Since the layouts I'm making are puzzle switching layouts, I dont believe there will tend to be issues regarding buffering of the coupling....generally it will be 1 or 2 cars at a time being coupled / uncoupled. I gather I will, however, have to 'push past' the magnet to couple up though.... correct?
