Did you remove the shell to paint? If so, how (if) did you remove the cab piece of the body from the body shell? Or did you paint as one whole piece? Looking underneath the shell I see two tabs from the cab but I haven't quite figure out yet how to release them to get the cab off.
I took it apart. I did some modifications to it to fill in the overly large gaps around the couplers before painting. There are the two obvious clips on the side of the shell where you can see them. There is also one at the front and back center which are not as obvious. That gets the cab and hood shell off the motor shell. The motor shell was harder to get apart. If I recall correctly I did a lot of prying with a small screwdriver to get both the cab and motor shell apart. Luckily they were both forgiving and nothing broke. Sorry I don't have better instructions.
I think I wasn't clear in my question. You mentioned that you removed the cab and hood shell off the motor shell with the two obvious side tabs. But did you try to remove the cab shell from the hood shell (ending up with two orange pieces)? If you look under the hood shell, you see two tabs that appear to hold the cab shell. But they don't look like your typical "tongue and slot" tabs.
Yes, I got them apart. You have to spread the base of the cab to get it over the raised portions of the hood. I'm a bit worried about scraping it up when I put it back togethor
Gotcha! Ah, looks like they are just alignment tabs and not locking tabs. In your case, since you painted it, how about a thin piece of plastic over the hood before sliding back the cab? Say, a plastic sandwich bag. Once the cab is on, pull out the plastic. Similar to car seats in a new car wrapped in clear plastic until delivery to a customer.
[/QUOTE] On my own layout I plan to use them to trigger a route and align some turnouts. On my friends layout we are planning to use them in staging to trigger an auto sequencer which will switch the yard ladders to an adjacent track.
Painting the Woodland Scenics pre-fab building. The main portions of the structure are assembled and only require paint. The kit does come with a lot of detail parts that also need painting.
I am actually ashamed to make this post BUT : a couple of weeks ago I was finishing my NASCAR hauler project when I dropped the tractor chassis on a carpeted floor and several key pieces broke off. I completely stripped the paint from cab and sleeper and started fresh. I am, hopefully, going to finish this weekend. Here are 2 latest images. All decals are on now. The sleeper is glued on but not the cab as I have a windshield, side mirrors, and a driver to add tomorrow I hope. I learned a lot regarding primer colors. At any rate here it is : Ooops, I forgot, I need to re-apply the wheels. I keep saying, "I hope", as this is decoration time. Does anybody have a fix for an old yard inflatable that is approx. 7 years old and is struggling to stand erect, no Viagra jokes please. I had read to spray the thing with soapy water and that did work but as it dries the bears head droops, this thing is 8' tall.
I think the object of spraying with soapy water is so u can find where the leak is. Air will make the soapy water bubble up...even if it is only a very small pin leak. jmo
They also have patch kits for inflatables (not bicycle tires), i.e., air matresses, pool toys, etc. I would check on Amazon.
Like I needed more on my work bench but couldn't resist any longer. I got two more packs of truck frames back in the summer to have as winter projects. It's December so does that count.
Three B&O covered hoppers for what I hope to be a Chessie grain train in the future. I think I’m at 7 cars before I have to use other roads…baby steps!
Love your idea of bottle and cap holder while you are working on things. So easy to knock them over while you're working. Don't ask me how I know.
Thanks! I brought a bottle to my dad several years back and said, "can you make a holder for this?" It's not quite idiot proof, but it makes it a lot harder for me to spill them (again)!
