Group, I'm planning on a Z scale layout, roughly 4' by 20', with multiple main lines and long trains for realistic operations. At what intervals should I have the track wired for power to get even coverage and no dead spots? Every 2' to 3' ? I plan or running straight DC, then upgrade to DCC. Thanks
Yeah every 2-3', a little closer on grades and curves where you may need more power. I also like to connect on all sides of turnouts. Mark
Depends a lot on what track you're using, but every 3' in Z is overkill, in my opinion. The current draw of Z locos is so small that there is very little loss through the rails. I suppose if you are using full size Atlas flex, then one feeder set per piece would be extra safe, but probably still excessive. Too many is never WRONG, if you like soldering to rails! Others will chime in soon, I'm sure.
I fully agree with Kez. The "modern" locomotive products (AZL, MTL) rarely draw more than 50mA per unit. Märklin run about 3x higher. I've built a test track using MTL sectional with one or two soldered connection MTL feed tracks. Rail joiners (12 pairs) are not soldered and one rail gapped. I find a noticeable speed drop with one feed (71") and not noticeable with two (35") when running the AZL GP38-2. Of course as the bankers say: your results may vary.
Myself, I went as far as a pair of feeder on every track section. That's a little bit the boxing glove to crush the mosquito, but thus I'm sure everything will continue to work ok as long as I run this layout... Dom
If you need to order wire, you can just use CAT Cable (Ethernet cable) available *everywhere*. The cable is four pairs twisted, each group has a different color (Green, Blue, Brown, Orange). CAT cable uses #26, still *more* than enough for Z.
Dave, Any copper wire >=30AWG will work for Z. For you and anyone else interested check out what is being called "ampacity" here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes The question to be asking is what works the best? The answer to that depends on your wiring skills, the technique you want to use and your tools. First of all get a good wire stripper: at minimum something like this with machined gauge specific blades. You can get them with blades down to 24 AWG. The biggest problem with hobbyist wiring is that they think they can strip a wire with a pocket knife or wire cutters. Generally they end up nicking the wire, degrading it both electrically and mechanically. Other types are thermal and rotary, more flexible but you're looking at big bucks for those. If you plan on soldering all your connections, you can use almost any size gauge. If you're planning to use any sort of crimp connector or "vampire", you'll be limited to no smaller than 20-24, depending on the connector. I like to avoid solid conductor wire. It's generally not flexible enough for pulling through a layout. I like wire wrap wire, tinned 30AWG, to drop down from the rails to the power bus. The size doesn't look out of place on the rails and since it is meant to be wrapped on a post, it's strong and flexible. You'll need a wire wrap stripper to strip this wire. I hadn't given CAT cable much thought. it's designed to be used in punch down panels, so the insulation isn't meant to be stripped so much as being displaced. Also, at least what I've used isn't tinned. What I like to use for power buses is 20-24AWG tinned, stranded (6-8 strands), PVC insulated wiring3-4 turns/foot, twisted. It's easy to strip, fits most connectors and flexible. A bit of overkill for the power drawn in Z, but easy to work with. Mark
