I see that most Unitrack users glue their track in place. What kind of glue is most common? I'll need to leave track sections unfastened between my two tables so that I can move the layout someday. Thanks again.
I mostly used a hot glue gun, at first, but later found that the glue for the ballast did a perfectly fine job of holding the roadbed in place.
I have used double sided foam tape, hot glue and liquid nails. Liquid nails is my preferred method. And like Rick mentioned, the ballasting will really secure it. I use a spot of Liquid nails on the nail hole/screw boss on the underside to keep it in place and then ballast. Removal is easy after wetting ballast and the track will pop up without too much fuss. Trey
Latex Caulk. Mine is setup in a non temperature controlled environment...single digits in the winter...100+ in the summer. All other adhesives have failed. The Outdoor Latex Caulk works great. It expands and contracts with the weather...just like it does around windows and doors. The light gray gives the appearance of ballast...even if I dont get to actually ballasting it someday. JMO
I have mostly used a dab of hot glue. I do add ballast to the scene as well. But do not rely on it as an adhesive. When I desire any other type of bonding, it is usually latex caulk, or on foam board, a "Liquid Nails" made specifically for use with such foam board.
I strongly recommend a flexible, water soluble adhesive. Aileen's tacky glue is a lot like Elmers (moistening it later will cause it to quickly "let go"), but it is flexible when it cures. That said, I won't use any more glue than necessary to keep the track in place. I also won't use any glue on signal tracks, turnouts or anything else other than ordinary straights and curves (that means they can be soaked later on to fully remove any glue if desired). On my new shelf layout, I don't intend to use any glue at all. If track migration becomes a problem, I'll just apply a dab at regular intervals. I think that those who glue and nail often overdo things.
Can someone with a Kato Unitrack Single Track Truss Bridge perhaps measure its clearance from the top of the railhead to the horizontal member across the top as shown? I'd like to know what kind of headroom exists there. Thank you in advance!
A hair over 43mm so 43mm. Note that the two "corners" on the top are cut 45 degrees. The 43mm is from the rail head to the highest point of the horizontal bar. If you have "fat" stuff then those two corners cut into overall the height.
Thanks very much MK! I really appreciate your attention to precise measuring and for mentioning the corner braces at the top. That's exactly the kind of information I was seeking.
It appears that I'll need to custom cut to length a Kato 20-454 Single Track Plate Girder Bridge. My X-Acto aluminum miter box is 30+ years old and the slots are worn and wide causing the saw to tilt and wobble in the slot. I need to replace it. What brand of miter boxes and thin kerf saws are y'all using these days?
For small track cutting, I use the xacto saw. Just get a new one. If I don't need a long straight cut, will use a Dremel
! Now THAT option is possible without any financial outlay. <g> Yes, I guess after 30+ years, I deserve a new mitre box.
No I'm not asking you to buy one. You were asking what I was using. I've had it for years. Pretty damn accurate!
I should post a photo of my well-worn miter box. The 45 Deg. slots are tight and perfect, but man -- that 90 Deg. slot has been worn to double-wide uselessness. It belongs in the X-Acto museum .....
So that I buy a miter box with sufficient width, can someone measure the width of the Unitrack 20-454 Deck Bridge as pictured here on Rick's layout? Thank you again everyone.
