Hey Mark! Stop staring off into space and get back work on your layout will ya!! Tonight I plan to construct the final turnout for the passing siding. I've also decided to alter the layout plan some what to extend the passing siding and incorporate a second crossover to the outside loop. I figured, since I'm hand laying my turnouts anyways, no reason I cant just build curved turnouts for these spots. I know the two right most turnouts on the inside loop look more like a crossing in the plan, but they'll be built slightly farther apart. I'll be building the left most of the 3 curved turnouts tonight.
Mark, that is really a nice plan. I really like it. Very interesting. How big is the entire layout? I could look though the whole thread but don't feel like it. Makes me want to start over but I'm not going to.
I'll take this opportunity to point out the Thread Index I've added, and continue to update, in post #1 again. Not that I'm going to make you go back and search, just want to let everyone know it's there. To answer your question, the layout is 4x8 with beveled corners.
Damn, my layout is 4' X 8' but yours looks so much bigger and more interesting. Wow...I suck. BTW I saw the index but 'ya know...
So Mark..... you could just take and put in a curved double slip switch on that inside main..... since you are hand laying and all........ would be pretty cool to see. Mike
Actually thought about doing that, but I'm just not feeling the look of a double slip there. Turns out I need to order some more PC Board ties, so maybe I'll think it over more. With that, instead of getting started on my last few turnouts, I added some vertical variance to the mainline as it runs through town. I dont often see this on layouts, do you (the dip/hump effect of the elevation)? I exaggerated mine a bit, but I like it. (Sorry, I was feeling too lazy to attempt to create a stack for better depth of field on this one )
I'd stick with the curved. Railroads rarely liked using double crossovers and double slips, due to maintenance. I also like the flow with the curved turnouts too.
Yep, that's why I'm still leaning towards two curved turnouts. I'm probably about 95% for the curved turnouts, 5% for a double slip. Actually, with my big AC-12, Kato Mike, two 6 axle diesels, and several small finicky steamers, I'm pretty much 0% for the double slip as its sure to just add troubles.
haha! Mark, I was TOTALLY joking with the double slip. They are nothing but problems! Just messin' with ya, since you made the step over the turnout "line". As to your other question, the hump looks good. You wouldn't have to do anything to get those humps and dips if you were using homasote! (infact they are so bad, I'm tearing up alot of my layout to get rid of the homasote) Keep up the great work! Mike
What are you talking about? These two images you posted over in the tunnel shots thread are amazing!! If you're willing to share, I'd love to see more!!
Thanks Mark. Still working on finishing up that mountain range. I've been in one of those MRR funks the last month. Nothing really to show although I may make a short video on auto racks soon. So much to do ... so little motivation. HERE is the thread about the mountain and how it "lifts off"...
The town of McKibben got it's first taste of life today. Here we see Mr. Delphos about to pull into the alley of his Grocery Store right as the mid-day tourist train returns.
Ahh yes the Athearn 2-8-0, I love em! Are your streets, sidewalks, and grade crossing styrene sheets?
I love the 2-8-0s too! Hopefully Athearn remakes them after the 2-6-0. I already have 3, but they're so awesome I'd definitely buy more! The streets are the bare foam board of the terrain. I elevated the sidewalks and everything else by cutting some old matte boards I had and gluing them in place. I then painted over everything with joint compound. The crossings are far from finished. Right now it's joint compound to raise them up to track height, but they still need a new layer to get everything correct since the first layer cracked and shrunk a little. The street is 1 6/8 inches wide, 7/8" per lane, and the sidewalks are 3/4th inches wide.
Here's an overall shot and a close up of the crossing (far from complete). **Oops, I moved my image files on the third party hosting site** Hopefully I can update these later on...
Thanks for the information, I was just about to start a thread asking how wide streets should be. Layouts looking good !!
Went ahead and did a little grade crossing work. First I sanded the dried Joint Compound down to the top of the spikes on the flex. Then I cut a bit of styrene (.010 in thick) to fit between the spike heads inside the rails. Next, I cut .0416" basswood into even bits and super glued them in place. On the inside, I pushed them right up against the spike heads and on the outside, I pushed them right up against the rail, on top of the spike heads. Here's one half done: Once finished with both crossings, I'll fill in the road leading up to and in between with JC. After that, I'll then sand everything down to the appropriate height, repaint the road, then paint the wooden crossing. **Oops, I moved my image files on the third party hosting site** Hopefully I can update these later on...
So the styrene in between the rails is just to shim up the wood to the height of the rails? I also just noticed that you changed the plan for the streets and buildings, I'm finding out that just because things fit in the plans nicely, doesn't mean that they look right on the actual layout.