I’m not sure if this has been addressed on the forum before or not, and if so my apologies for bringing it up again. I was going to ask this question under the sawtooth warehouse review I am doing, but thought this particular subject may take on a life of its own. The end result, if it can be achieved, will be installed on the sawtooth warehouse. Has anyone attempted, or had any success making a gooseneck style warehouse light like this — BUT LIGHTED?? Or are they sold anywhere? The one in this pic is either HO or O-scale. Now I have in my possession, and have been experimenting with both NANO and Z sized LED lights. Yes there is a size called Z, most likely named after our beloved 1:220 scale (or maybe not ). Regardless that Z bulb is micro small puts out a lot of light. Almost too much in some applications. Regardless I have some ideas on how to pull this off, but I wanted to see if anybody has already done it.
Lance, Robert Ray has done it for his round house and other buildings in his recent module build. https://www.trainboard.com/highball...-wa-t-trak-z-module-set-project.129952/page-5 https://www.trainboard.com/highball...-wa-t-trak-z-module-set-project.129952/page-7 Scott
Editing this post. When you first sent over your above response the links were missing. Now I see the links.
Lance, First pass Googling bead cap, I came up with a 2.5x1mm cap. https://www.firemountaingems.com/it...MImbDbm_CE8wIVDuXICh01JQgFEAQYByABEgKbePD_BwE Scott
Scott, I actually have that in a 3 mm. The same company sells it and they call it a “Rhinestud”. Similar to a rhinestone but it’s actually an iron on stud of sorts. Now here’s the clincher though. Those things are small and hard and near impossible to drill through with a pin vice. Would need a hole through the center for the light to stick through. I have located 2 mm cupped sequins Etsy and they are also cupped. They do have a hole in the middle hence the pole and the wire could stick through. Have not yet ordered as I wanted to see if anyone had better ideas.
Dang, completely forgot about fiber optic cable. Bendable and paintable. You might be onto something there.
Scott I was re-checking this thread and noticed that your initial response to mine did not have the links. I have circled back and opened up the links on the work that Robert Ray has already done. So he’s pretty much the latest the trail already. I will research the links and go from there. Good info thank you.
Lance, Take a second look at those bead caps, they have a hole through the center as they are beads. Scott
Hi, Lance I have used the Woodland Scenics n-scale gooseneck lamps and I don't really notice too much difference. I have also used a hole punch to punch out the shades in cardstock. I then drilled a hole in the center and shaped the shade using a rounded toothpick. I used Evans Design 1mm LED's for the light source. Jim
AHHHH ---- I see said the blind man. Yes, those do have a hole in the center and 2.5 mm's --- I may be ordering some of these!
I figured someone must be selling something, as the Z-market is growing more and more, but had yet to stumble across a link. Thanks for sending this one. These are really nice, and I see the they come as a kit. Interesting......
Just ordered the 2.5 MM bead covers from Fire Mountain Gems. Ordered 26 GA hypodermic 304 tubing (0.018 OD) from Component Supply: https://componentsupplycompany.com/ I have the Z LED's already. Will see what I can pull off with these products. Should be fun little project. Will share any successes I have.....
Lance, How will you be bending the tube? I have not bent tubing this small before. I was wondering if putting the wire in first helps? Thanks for posting the Component Supply site! Scott
Scott, I did peruse the links you sent regarding Robert Rays success with these already, and I see he did give some instructions on how to possibly bend the tube. However the question is the tube I am using may be smaller in both diameter and wall thickness. So one does run the risk of collapsing the tube at the radius. Once the tubes arrive, I’ll have a better idea of what I am dealing with. Venture to say some heat is going to need to be applied. As for putting the wires in advance, that’s probably out of the question because any heat applied would melt the protective covering on the wires and you would have a short. I’m thinking the best I might be able to do is a partial bend in the tube to simulate at least a bend. This should be really interesting. Stay tuned.
Lance, I asked, because I was wondering if cold bending the tube with wire in it might keep the tube from collapsing. I know that tubing is bent with sand inside to keep it from collapsing. Maybe you can fill it with baking powder? I also wondered how hard is out to snake wire through after the tube is bent? You had mentioned fiberoptic, you can also achieve the same with acrylic rod. The rod creates a light pipe, I have made them before at work. Just throwing around some ideas. Thanks for listening, Scott